Installing a P40G Summit valve

[Yotekiller]

Hey guys, I am working on piecing together rear remotes for my L2502. I purchased a Summit P40G valve and just want to make sure that I plumb it correctly and don't damage my tractor. If I am correct, I need to go from the BY port on the loader valve to the P port on the summit valve, then from the T port on the P40G and run it to the where the BY port off of the loader valve was ran to and that's it? I'm a newbie to hydraulics but trying to learn. Thanks for any help!

 

[TheOldHokie]

Hey guys, I am working on piecing together rear remotes for my L2502. I purchased a Summit P40G valve and just want to make sure that I plumb it correctly and don't damage my tractor. If I am correct, I need to go from the BY port on the loader valve to the P port on the summit valve, then from the T port on the P40G and run it to the where the BY port off of the loader valve was ran to and that's it? I'm a newbie to hydraulics but trying to learn. Thanks for any help!

No - that is not correct. It will "work" but you are overloading the T port on the P40G and risking damage to the valve.

PB from loader to P on the P40G is correct but you need the power beyond sleeve for the power beyond connectiom back to the tractor.:

Power Beyond Adapter Sleeve for P40G Series Summit Monoblock Valves

FREE SHIPPING Power Beyond Adapter Sleeve for P40G Series Summit Monoblock Valves

summit-hydraulics.com

Remove the steel plug in the N port of your valve and install the PB sleeve in the N port.

Then connect N to the port on the hydraulic block where the loader BY had been previously.

Finally put a tee on the loader valve tank port connection and connect the T port on the P40G to the tee.

Where on the tractor are you mounting the P40G?

Dan

 

[Yotekiller]

No - that is not correct. It will "work" but you are overloading the T port on the P40G and risking damage to the valve.

PB from loader to P on the P40G is correct but you need the power beyond sleeve for the power beyond connectiom back to the tractor.:

Power Beyond Adapter Sleeve for P40G Series Summit Monoblock Valves

FREE SHIPPING Power Beyond Adapter Sleeve for P40G Series Summit Monoblock Valves

summit-hydraulics.com

Remove the steel plug in the N port of your valve and install the PB sleeve in the N port.

Then connect N to the port on the hydraulic block where the loader BY had been previously.

Finally put a tee on the loader valve tank port connection and connect the T port on the P40G to the tee.

Where on the tractor are you mounting the P40G?

Dan

Thanks Dan! I bought that PB Sleeve just incase I needed it. And the valve is going to sit where it's at in the picture. I made brackets for it last night. I am a bit worried about all the hoses being up there where the valve is sitting but since it's being used to run the rear remote, I didn't want to reach way up by the loader valve while simultaneously trying to watch the rear of the tractor and making adjustments. I am putting this tractor to work starting spring and will be using the rear remote all day long....

 

[TheOldHokie]

Thanks Dan! I bought that PB Sleeve just incase I needed it. And the valve is going to sit where it's at in the picture. I made brackets for it last night. I am a bit worried about all the hoses being up there where the valve is sitting but since it's being used to run the rear remote, I didn't want to reach way up by the loader valve while simultaneously trying to watch the rear of the tractor and making adjustments. I am putting this tractor to work starting spring and will be using the rear remote all day long....

Other than aesthetics the hoses should not be an issue. Where are you putting the outlets? Short hoses can be a PITA to route and connect.

Dan

 

[Yotekiller]

Other than aesthetics the hoses should not be an issue. Where are you putting the outlets? Short hoses can be a PITA to route and connect.

Dan

The rear remotes will be attached to a bracket I made that bolts right on the back close to the factory tool box. That's the plan for now... I am driving the tractor down to the hydraulics shop tomorrow to have all the hoses made up and fit in place....

I have considered coming off of the one spool to a diverter valve to control a 3rd function for grapple...

 

[TheOldHokie]

The rear remotes will be attached to a bracket I made that bolts right on the back close to the factory tool box. That's the plan for now... I am driving the tractor down to the hydraulics shop tomorrow to have all the hoses made up and fit in place....

I have considered coming off of the one spool to a diverter valve to control a 3rd function for grapple...

Why screw with a diverter and even more hoses running from rear to front? Put a $90 single spool next to the loader valve.

Dan

 

[Yotekiller]

Why screw with a diverter and even more hoses running from rear to front? Put a $90 single spool next to the loader valve.

Dan

I don't know why I didn't think of that! lol

 

[Yotekiller]

Why screw with a diverter and even more hoses running from rear to front? Put a $90 single spool next to the loader valve.

Dan

Dan,

Would you happen to know what fittings I would need to plumb this P40G to the lodader valve? Reason I ask is because I had planned to just drive my tractor to the hydraulics shop and have them look at it while they were making my hoses up. I just got off the phone with them and discovered they are no longer opened on Saturdays so that only leaves me with taking a day off of work to go over there. If these fittings are something that I can just buy at one of the local farm stores, I could just swing in there tonight and buy my hoses and fittings. Thanks for your help!

 

[TheOldHokie]

Dan,

Would you happen to know what fittings I would need to plumb this P40G to the lodader valve? Reason I ask is because I had planned to just drive my tractor to the hydraulics shop and have them look at it while they were making my hoses up. I just got off the phone with them and discovered they are no longer opened on Saturdays so that only leaves me with taking a day off of work to go over there. If these fittings are something that I can just buy at one of the local farm stores, I could just swing in there tonight and buy my hoses and fittings. Thanks for your help!

I think you will need new hoses. The Kubota PB hose is going to be too short to reach the P40 valve.

Hoses for loader BY to P40 P and P40 N to outlet block will be JIC-8 female swivels. I would run them rearwards then down, under floorboard, and back forward.

P port on.P40 will need an SAE-10 x JIC-8 male elbow. Same for top T port.

N port on P40 will be an SAE-8 x JIC-8 male elbow.

You will need a JIC-8 female swivel elbow on the N hose where it connects to the hydraulic block. I would make that a 90 degree end fitting on the hose.

You will need a JIC-8 run tee with one female swivel for the tank return connection at thr hydraulic block. Configuration depends on how you decide to route the two tank hoses.

Dan

 

[Russell King]

Why don’t you mount the new valve to the ROPS? You may need to fabricate a plate that uses U-bolts around the tube.

.I think you can move the handles to a horizontal position but may be wrong about that.

I would worry that the valve will vibrate and rip out the sheet metal of the fender.

 

[Yotekiller]

I think you will need new hoses. The Kubota PB hose is going to be too short to reach the P40 valve.

Hoses for loader BY to P40 P and P40 N to outlet block will be JIC-8 female swivels. I would run them rearwards then down, under floorboard, and back forward.

P port on.P40 will need an SAE-10 x JIC-8 male elbow. Same for top T port.

N port on P40 will be an SAE-8 x JIC-8 male elbow.

You will need a JIC-8 female swivel elbow on the N hose where it connects to the hydraulic block. I would make that a 90 degree end fitting on the hose.

You will need a JIC-8 run tee with one female swivel for the tank return connection at thr hydraulic block. Configuration depends on how you decide to route the two tank hoses.

Dan

Dan, thank you so much for taking your time to make that list for me. It's appreciated more than you know. I got everything hooked up this weekend and its all working perfectly.

 

[Yotekiller]

Why don’t you mount the new valve to the ROPS? You may need to fabricate a plate that uses U-bolts around the tube.

.I think you can move the handles to a horizontal position but may be wrong about that.

I would worry that the valve will vibrate and rip out the sheet metal of the fender.

The valve was just sitting there so I could get measurements and stuff. I fabbed a bracket that it mounts to and has 4 mounting points to give it strength. I didn't want it back on the ROPS because I want to easily reach it to make adjustments while moving. Where it's at, I can easily control it from the seat or from the rear of the tractor. I don't think I could have mounted it in any better of a place.

 

[TheOldHokie]

The valve was just sitting there so I could get measurements and stuff. I fabbed a bracket that it mounts to and has 4 mounting points to give it strength. I didn't want it back on the ROPS because I want to easily reach it to make adjustments while moving. Where it's at, I can easily control it from the seat or from the rear of the tractor. I don't think I could have mounted it in any better of a place.

It will work great - very close to OEM positioning on other models

BTW - might want to consider shorter handles on the valve

Dan

 

[fried1765]

Why don’t you mount the new valve to the ROPS? You may need to fabricate a plate that uses U-bolts around the tube.

.I think you can move the handles to a horizontal position but may be wrong about that.

I would worry that the valve will vibrate and rip out the sheet metal of the fender.

The factory 3 remote valve assembly (mounted by dealer) is in exactly the same location on my 2006 L48 TLB.

 

[Russell King]

The valve was just sitting there so I could get measurements and stuff. I fabbed a bracket that it mounts to and has 4 mounting points to give it strength. I didn't want it back on the ROPS because I want to easily reach it to make adjustments while moving. Where it's at, I can easily control it from the seat or from the rear of the tractor. I don't think I could have mounted it in any better of a place.

OK I was thinking that it would rip out the sheet metal but maybe there is something else underneath the fender.

And yes being on the ROPS definitely does make it a little difficult to reach but I am generally rotating around to see the implement being adjusted anyway so it woks out okay so far.