Installed PAT's Quick Change Hitch on my BX. Three questions.

[CountryBumkin]

I just installed Pat's on my BX2370.
I still have the MMM installed. I just finshed installing and now find that the 3-Point does not drop low enough now to get under my attachment. When I disconnected the attachment (a 3-point Quick Hitch with Suitcase weights) I set it down on a couple of blocks. Going back to reattach it I find the 3-point won't lower enough. It's about 3 or 4 inches too high.

1) Is this because the MMM is limiting the 3-point's travel? If yes, why was it able to lower enough to disconnect before the PAT's installation.

2) How far down should the lower 3-point arms drop (stock setup without MMM installed)? Would they touch the ground?

3) I also have the Pat's separator bar. Do I still need to use the "Check Chains"? I assume so since the Pats separator bar is somewhat flimsy.

 

[GWD]

I can only answer #3 since my BX2200 doesn't have a MMM.

The attachment bar is only to be used for attaching (lining up the Pat's hooks with the implement's lift pins). Take it off before doing tractor work...like when you hook up the top link. It will surely break if left there.

Plus, the bar will interfere with a PTO shaft.

EDIT: Question #2: The 3 point lower arms on a BX2200 go to about 3" off the ground with turf tires. I have to be careful about dragging them if I forget to raise them before traveling.

 

[ipz2222]

With nothing on the 3ph, it may not go down all the way. Hold the lever down while standing on the lift arms, may have to have help here.

 

[CountryBumkin]

With nothing on the 3ph, it may not go down all the way. Hold the lever down while standing on the lift arms, may have to have help here.

Tried that - no change. It must be the MMM (or a related adjustment) as the mounting points (Pat's) are about 9 inches off the ground.

I'll recheck the next time my MMM is removed.

So, I just need to be sure that whenever I dismount my implements to be sure they are on blocks high enough to reconnect with MMM attached.

 

[SLIMSHADIE]

Mike have you taken the Pats stabilizer bar off to see if it lowers anymore, it may be binding on something. That bar is flimzy, I dont use it anymore since installing Hodges Stabilizers, replacing the check chains.

 

[CountryBumkin]

Mike have you taken the Pats stabilizer bar off to see if it lowers anymore, it may be binding on something. That bar is flimzy, I dont use it anymore since installing Hodges Stabilizers, replacing the check chains.

Yea, I took off the spreader bar and no difference in lowered height.

One thing I noticed is that without the Pat's "Easy Change System" the mounting sockets where the implement pins fit into, at the end of the 3-point's lower arms can rotate (like a ball in a socket) but with Pat's hitch installed this rotating socket feature is lost as Pat's is fixed solid onto the lift arms, so you have to be sure to adjust them so they are vertical and not leaning in or out at the 3-point position/height where you are connecting to implement.

 

[SLIMSHADIE]

Mike I have a 3pt trailer mover installed, so it will let the arms go all the way down. Measuring off of gravel, the bottom of the pins are about 9". My mmm is not installed either.

 

[CountryBumkin]

Mike I have a 3pt trailer mover installed, so it will let the arms go all the way down. Measuring off of gravel, the bottom of the pins are about 9". My mmm is not installed either.

Okay, so that's the same height I get now with MMM installed.

I'll just need to be sure that whatever implements I have that they are sitting on blocks or stands at the correct height so I can the Pat's "hooks" under their pins.

Thanks.

 

[GWD]

Okay, so that's the same height I get now with MMM installed.

I'll just need to be sure that whatever implements I have that they are sitting on blocks or stands at the correct height so I can the Pat's "hooks" under their pins.

Thanks.

There are usually several holes, as well as adjustments, on the 3PH that allow some variety in height.

Take a good look at the 3PH and see if something "in this hole, or that" will make a difference. You could post a photo so other members might make an informed suggestion.

 

[CountryBumkin]

There are usually several holes, as well as adjustments, on the 3PH that allow some variety in height.

Take a good look at the 3PH and see if something "in this hole, or that" will make a difference. You could post a photo so other members might make an informed suggestion.

Picture uploaded. Note that the carpenter's square on the ground next to the hitch is 6 inches high. The 3-point is shown in the lowest position.

 

[trapperdrew]

Looking on my 2370, that bottom height looks to be correct. It doesn't go to the ground.

 

[GWD]

Picture uploaded. Note that the carpenter's square on the ground next to the hitch is 6 inches high. The 3-point is shown in the lowest position.

Ah, thanks for the photo. It appears that your vertical lift arms are attached to the lower arms as close to the tractor as they can go.

However, your adjustable vertical lift arm has a lot of adjustment remaining to make it longer. Of course, that would make one side lower than the other. But it would lower that side closer to the ground.

Now for a suggestion: You may want to look into getting an adjustable lift arm for the side that currently has one that is solid.

I did that when my hydraulic "Tilt" cylinder was installed. The adjustable arm was moved to the other side and many more options became available.

 

[CountryBumkin]

Now for a suggestion: You may want to look into getting an adjustable lift arm for the side that currently has one that is solid.

I did that when my hydraulic "Tilt" cylinder was installed. The adjustable arm was moved to the other side and many more options became available.

That's a good idea.

Is there any reason that I could not just drill two new holes in the lower lift arms (maybe 2 or 3 inches forward of the existing holes)?

That would lower the arms some - although it would also reduce my lifting capacity by some amount.

Of course the easiest thing is to just store my 3-point implements at the proper height so I can reconnect to them easily when the time comes.

 

[GWD]

That's a good idea.

Is there any reason that I could not just drill two new holes in the lower lift arms (maybe 2 or 3 inches forward of the existing holes)?

That would lower the arms some - although it would also reduce my lifting capacity by some amount.

Of course the easiest thing is to just store my 3-point implements at the proper height so I can reconnect to them easily when the time comes.

Drilling a new hole in the lower lift arms closer to the tractor would also limit the height of the implement when fully lifted. Kubota put the holes where they are for a reason...but most likely for leverage purposes rather than implement height.

A second adjustable vertical lift arm would open up additional possibilities other than just lowering the attachment point. Plus, there may be times when you want to drop an attachment away from a docking station.

Messick's Tractor has 1 left for about $40 (+shipping). Part # K2581-38220

Storing implements at a height for easier attachment is always an option. Using a pallet might even be enough. And every new implement would require another device to keep it raised.

 

[CountryBumkin]

A second adjustable vertical lift arm would open up additional possibilities other than just lowering the attachment point. Plus, there may be times when you want to drop an attachment away from a docking station.

Messick's Tractor has 1 left for about $40 (+shipping). Part # K2581-38220

This is a great idea - and thanks for providing a part number!

But it turn out that part is only for the "RH Under" rod, there is also a "RH Upper" rod at $7.89, a "Turnbuckle" at $32.75, and a "Nut". So the total comes to $81.76 plus shipping.

I'm tempted to get this because I'm lazy - but my laziness turns into cheapness at about $50, so I think I'll just park my implements for now so that I can reconnect without making any tractor modifications.

 

[Grouse Feathers]

I don't have any implements that set to low for connecting to the tractor. If you only have the problem with one implement maybe attaching a base to the implement so the implement sets higher is a better alternative then modifying the tractor.

 

[MadMax31]

On my B, my Quick Hitch will just about drag in the dirt, when all the way down.

 

[GWD]

This is a great idea - and thanks for providing a part number!

But it turn out that part is only for the "RH Under" rod, there is also a "RH Upper" rod at $7.89, a "Turnbuckle" at $32.75, and a "Nut". So the total comes to $81.76 plus shipping.

I'm tempted to get this because I'm lazy - but my laziness turns into cheapness at about $50, so I think I'll just park my implements for now so that I can reconnect without making any tractor modifications.

Are you sure about the parts thing? Did you call Messick's? You might want to talk with them about it. 877-260-3528

Here is the PDF file that shows the part number for the complete assembly. #10 is all of the parts from 20 through 50. The individual parts are far more costly than the assembly (as usual).

 

[CountryBumkin]

Hmm, I didn't see item #10 as the complete assembly. I was thinking I needed to order 20 through 50 individually. Thanks for pointing that out.

Called Messicks - you were right GWD. The $40 is for the whole rod assembly (or you can spend $81 and buy it by the piece). Thanks for posting back.
I have it on order now!

 

[Martywoodburner]

Just curious what implement you are trying to pick up that you can't get under?

I've been looking at PATS for awhile and am wondering how well they work.