Inj pump leak questions L2850 / V1702DI

[Sobrbiker]

Hey all, thanks for the kelp and info I’ve found already.
My ‘87 L2850 seems to be a “one step forward, two steps back” project. I fixed the leaky fuel filter setup, replaced the injection pump bleed cock. After that I still had engine not wanting to start warm, and varied rpm’s spraying brake cleaner around injection pump.
Ran tractor yesterday for about an hour, and parked it in shop. Later I bled it as Kubota says to (I’m used to opening up and closing while running).
I went out this morning and fired it up to check some other things (coolant bypass line I’d replaced, and reservoir), and it was dripping diesel out of injection pump lines, particularly heavy out of 1 and 2. Heavy enough that fuel was dripping below pump and onto steering shaft, nonstop quick drops to floor.
After cleaning it up, it was seeping (engine off) fuel not from the line to valve holder, but from valve holder to pump body (yellow arrows in pic). Pic is approx 15sec after shutting down and wiping clean, you can see it’s already seeping out of valve holder threads. Top of pump body was wet with fuel half a minute later.
I’m not experienced with wrenching diesels beyond 20+ yrs as an equipment operator, so I’ve got a couple questions before I go further. WSM has little info on topic and parts diagram leaves me wondering:

A: if I pull hard lines, can I remove the delivery valve holder from pump body and replace the o-ring shown (230 in parts diagram) without pulling valve internals (green) out that wil screw things up for me?
I’m thinking new o-rings and sealing valve holder threads with diesel rated sealant will fix my issue.
B: If I pull hard lines, are there o-rings
or seals in the compression fittings from lines to valve holders (blue in pic)? I don’t see anything in WSM or all the parts diagrams I can find.

Hopefully this is something I can do, other than puking fuel and sucking air when hot the tractor runs well, and I can move onto fixing leaky cylinders and such (the new sight glass I put in to replace the jb-weld or whatever the PO slapped on leaky sight glass at least lets me keep fluid in happy zone).

 

[Russell King]

I have read to never let that valve holder rotate when removing the injector lines since it has something to do with the fuel delivery.

I would recommend you wait until someone with good experience on the injector pump says it is OK to do.

I would probably remove the pump and have it repaired by a professional.

 

[Sobrbiker]

I have read to never let that valve holder rotate when removing the injector lines since it has something to do with the fuel delivery.

I would recommend you wait until someone with good experience on the injector pump says it is OK to do.

I would probably remove the pump and have it repaired by a professional.

Looks to me that as long as the delivery valve 70 doesn’t turn in relation to the sleeve control 150, but I could be mistaken.

Another question to those more experienced, am I also gonna have to swap out delivery valve gasket 50?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

That model of pump is fairly easily to repair.
Hold the delivery valve, then, Pull the hard lines then,
Remove the delivery valve holder (140) and O-ring 230, but do not remove the pump plunger (80) and yes you need to replace the delivery gasket (50) as that is where it's leaking.
you can remove the spring seat (60), be mindful of the direction, the spring (40), and the delivery valve (70), again be mindful of the direction.

You will need to reinstall everything and torque to spec, that is how you set that pump, specs below.
There is no other delivery curve to that pump adjustable from the outside.

FYI: The O-ring's only job is to keep water and dirt out of the threads it does not seal the pump.

 

[Sobrbiker]

thank you sir! I’ll be coming in on machine from top, rather than pulling pump. If fuel valve is turned off, I’d imagine the mess will only be from what fuel is in system.

Hopefully I can get gasket without disturbing much. I’ll order parts and find a crow’s foot wrench to torque as properly as I can.

Rectorseal on male threads of holder is probably not a good idea, huh?

That model of pump is fairly easily to repair.
Hold the delivery valve, then, Pull the hard lines then,
Remove the delivery valve holder (140) and O-ring 230, but do not remove the pump plunger (80) and yes you need to replace the delivery gasket (50) as that is where it's leaking.
you can remove the spring seat (60), be mindful of the direction, the spring (40), and the delivery valve (70), again be mindful of the direction.

You will need to reinstall everything and torque to spec, that is how you set that pump, specs below.
There is no other delivery curve to that pump adjustable from the outside.

FYI: The O-ring's only job is to keep water and dirt out of the threads it does not seal the pump.

View attachment 111311

View attachment 111318

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

thank you sir! I’ll be coming in on machine from top, rather than pulling pump. If fuel valve is turned off, I’d imagine the mess will only be from what fuel is in system.

Hopefully I can get gasket without disturbing much. I’ll order parts and find a crow’s foot wrench to torque as properly as I can.

Rectorseal on male threads of holder is probably not a good idea, huh?

You use a socket to torque the delivery valves.
Yes sealer is a bad idea!

 

[Sobrbiker]

You use a socket to torque the delivery valves.
Yes sealer is a bad idea!

Thanks for your help!
Looks like the intake manifold should come off to allow clearance for socket/torque wrench. I’d hate to get I there and find I need to take it off after it’s opened up. I was thinking of using a crows foot 19mm for clearance to torque DV holders around intake.

Speaking of sealant, WSM doesn’t say anything about sealant on intake manifold gasket as an ssembly note, so if I get a new gasket I guess it goes on dry?

Parts ordered, hopefully they get here by or on Friday. Hopefully I’ve got a socket that will clear.

 

[sitric]

No sealant needed on intake gasket. I ran a compression check on my v1702 di this spring, and replacement intake gasket is quite thick, and seals easy.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Yes intake gasket does not take sealer either.

 

[Sobrbiker]

Update: leaks are fixed, tractor fired up on third long crank. Every fitting had been cranked as tight as possible by those before me. Took most of the day, but everything was filthy, and FEL was a pain to work around. I’m glad I pulled intake manifold, that made getting the torque right much easier and allowed plenty of room to get at the copper gaskets without working blind.
Thanks for all the help!!

 

[Sobrbiker]

Still not wanting to start well when shut down warm, but no leaks still after running yesterday.
I bled fuel lines at injectors today with engine running and there was bubbling, and ran it for a while backdragging a large area to get it warm. It did restart, but weakly and ran slow for a few seconds before ramping up to half throttle I had it at.
As it’s 36 years old with no history, I’m thinking a change of all the fuel lines may be the next move…

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

You need to do a compression test.