Initial implements for L3560LE?
- Thread starter ScottHam
- Start date
I generally wouldn't advise anyone away from the piranha tooth bar as 98% of what i've heard about it is good and I don't actually think i've heard anyone say they regretted purchasing it.. plus as 'implements' go it's cheap! I know it's not exactly an implement but a straight edge bucket and a tooth bucket are debatably two different things, so it sort of falls in there.
But.. if your main purpose for the tooth bar was having to do with brush removal and you're getting a grapple anyway, i might skip the tooth bar for the initial round of purchases if $300 makes a difference to you. Neither the piranha style tooth bar or the lower tines on many grapples are ideal for 'digging' but they might be comparable good at it in my mind (ive used neither yet). Plus I think if your brush is large enough to 'grip' with the grapple you'll do better in rocky ground grabbing over top of it and rolling the tractor slightly forwards and backwards while trying to curl up with closed grapple, than you would by digging into the roots with a tooth bar.
I'll propose another idea. I think the tooth bar is around $300. A Titan stump bucket is $600-700 (it went up recently i guess, its been ~$550 for the past 2 years). If you have SSQA you might consider swinging the few hundred extra to get a dedicated digging/prying bucket. The Titan one is somewhat unique among stump buckets in that it has a single narrow 'tip/tooth' and narrower front bucket walls than most of them which will maximize your initial ground penetration. I would say its just about a highly reviewed as the piranha is. Does depend on having SSQA!
I have box blade and angle blade. I think the angle blade may ultimately be more versatile for you, but if i had an angle blade and no box blade and wanted to keep it that way I'd probably modify my angle blade for removable side walls and (reversible!) gauge wheels. It definitely has its tricks. I think using the blade reversed, and changing top link setting, are the low hanging fruit i dont see many people mentioning. The top link length controls the aggressiveness of the cutting (blade facing forward) or spreading (blade facing backward) just like it does on a box blade. Making the implement unlevel front to back by changing the top link setting also causes one side of the blade to rise the and the other to lower when it is angled. If you have a power top link and not a power side link that may be tempting at times to get some crowning effect, but it does mix the side tilt and blade angle to the ground together since moving the top link also affects the aggressiveness of the blade. I think another thing to consider is IF: a. you're not getting a box blade, and b. you're not getting a stump bucket, THEN: I would consider getting some kind of dedicated single ripper thing for the 3pt to help deal with rocks and roots that the loader REALLY isn't suited for (in the absence of a stump bucket). Box blades usually come with rippers which, while they have limited depth, can be used for this to a point.
But.. if your main purpose for the tooth bar was having to do with brush removal and you're getting a grapple anyway, i might skip the tooth bar for the initial round of purchases if $300 makes a difference to you. Neither the piranha style tooth bar or the lower tines on many grapples are ideal for 'digging' but they might be comparable good at it in my mind (ive used neither yet). Plus I think if your brush is large enough to 'grip' with the grapple you'll do better in rocky ground grabbing over top of it and rolling the tractor slightly forwards and backwards while trying to curl up with closed grapple, than you would by digging into the roots with a tooth bar.
I'll propose another idea. I think the tooth bar is around $300. A Titan stump bucket is $600-700 (it went up recently i guess, its been ~$550 for the past 2 years). If you have SSQA you might consider swinging the few hundred extra to get a dedicated digging/prying bucket. The Titan one is somewhat unique among stump buckets in that it has a single narrow 'tip/tooth' and narrower front bucket walls than most of them which will maximize your initial ground penetration. I would say its just about a highly reviewed as the piranha is. Does depend on having SSQA!
I have box blade and angle blade. I think the angle blade may ultimately be more versatile for you, but if i had an angle blade and no box blade and wanted to keep it that way I'd probably modify my angle blade for removable side walls and (reversible!) gauge wheels. It definitely has its tricks. I think using the blade reversed, and changing top link setting, are the low hanging fruit i dont see many people mentioning. The top link length controls the aggressiveness of the cutting (blade facing forward) or spreading (blade facing backward) just like it does on a box blade. Making the implement unlevel front to back by changing the top link setting also causes one side of the blade to rise the and the other to lower when it is angled. If you have a power top link and not a power side link that may be tempting at times to get some crowning effect, but it does mix the side tilt and blade angle to the ground together since moving the top link also affects the aggressiveness of the blade. I think another thing to consider is IF: a. you're not getting a box blade, and b. you're not getting a stump bucket, THEN: I would consider getting some kind of dedicated single ripper thing for the 3pt to help deal with rocks and roots that the loader REALLY isn't suited for (in the absence of a stump bucket). Box blades usually come with rippers which, while they have limited depth, can be used for this to a point.
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lerxstland
Member
Equipment
MX5400 , New Holland 4630, LP BoxBlade, land plane, Grapple, rake, rear blade,
My gravel drive is about a mile... I have found the land plane to be the best for maintaining the gravel and I use an lr1672 (rake) to bring the gravel back onto the driveway a couple of times per year. Also, grapple is used all the time in the woods and forks are a must have for me. I have a rear blade but it doesn't seem to get used that often, other than for snow removal.
Best of luck with your tractor...
Best of luck with your tractor...
A Roll-Over box blade is great, allows a deep sink of the scarifier teeth, and they are very heavy duty. I have the 5.5' one. I also have a 7' scraper blade with tilt, swing, pivot etc and its nice too.
I have found that just getting every attachment and implement I can find and afford is the way to go, as they all get used here and there and have their niches. The heavier the better, for sure!
In rocky, hard ground, the BH77 backhoe and excavating teeth on the front bucket are the ultimate go to for ground work compared to any 3pt. attachment I have
I have found that just getting every attachment and implement I can find and afford is the way to go, as they all get used here and there and have their niches. The heavier the better, for sure!
In rocky, hard ground, the BH77 backhoe and excavating teeth on the front bucket are the ultimate go to for ground work compared to any 3pt. attachment I have
^ On a related note, I have a ripper tooth for my backhoe. I don't have a dedicated 3pt ripper per se, but i do have a 3pt receiver hitch, so my plan that I haven't followed through with yet is to just drill 2 appropriately spaced holes in a 2" square tube, pin my backhoe ripper attachment to it, and slip it in the hitch on my 3pt. 