Implements for LX3310

[SDT]

Great info! Thanks for the input, it's greatly appreciated. I was able to locate the manual on the My Kubota app. I find it disappointing that I reached out to the dealer to get the manual and he essentially blew me off. Within 20 minutes of asking the question on this forum I now have the manual. You guys are great!

It's interesting to me that the 3 point is rated to lift well over 500 pounds but yet it's not recommended to exceed that limit. I have a lot learn I guess

Lifting ability and maximum rated load are entirely different issues.

Not going to try to explain herein as a couple of engineering courses in statics and dynamics and/or a lifetime of relevant experience will be needed for proper understanding.

SDT

 

[SDT]

I have no problem with a 60" 550lb cutter on my LX2610, though I've only used it on flat ground with the FEL on. I think the weight limit listed is conservativly low in part because of how far back the cutter extends from the lift arms and the risk associated with improper front ballast.

That is indeed one of the factors.

SDT

 

[RegionRat]

Lifting ability and maximum rated load are entirely different issues.

Not going to try to explain herein as a couple of engineering courses in statics and dynamics and/or a lifetime of relevant experience will be needed for proper understanding.

SDT

I figure it has to do with the forces relating to leverage on the 3 point. I'm reading through the manual now. Pretty interesting stuff. No need for me to be an expert in physics or engineering when I got you fellas on OTT. haha

 

[NHSleddog]

First off, the majority of the time you are dragging it around on the ground, not up in the air.

At a minimum cover your rear wheels width. Nothing worse than driving over the same crap again. If you drive over it, you should cut it.

I have been running a HD 5' Hog on my B2650 without issue. Probably mowed over 200 acres with the combo so far. I job with my tractor so I am rarely mowing the same thing twice and I am in the woods a lot with it. Aside from being HP limited at times (should not be an issue for you) it is a good fit.

 

[RegionRat]

First off, the majority of the time you are dragging it around on the ground, not up in the air.

At a minimum cover your rear wheels width. Nothing worse than driving over the same crap again. If you drive over it, you should cut it.

I have been running a HD 5' Hog on my B2650 without issue. Probably mowed over 200 acres with the combo so far. I job with my tractor so I am rarely mowing the same thing twice and I am in the woods a lot with it. Aside from being HP limited at times (should not be an issue for you) it is a good fit.

Yea I think I'll look for a lighter 5' cutter. I too plan on doing side work with the LX3310. Field mowing, brush jobs, driveways, yard installs, ect. Any advice on getting jobs? I have the truck and trailer already. Got liability insurance quotes and will be getting an LLC. not trying to make millions (yet)...just trying learn the business and get something established so when I retire from my current career I'm set up to go full throttle.

 

[nbryan]

I figure it has to do with the forces relating to leverage on the 3 point. I'm reading through the manual now. Pretty interesting stuff. No need for me to be an expert in physics or engineering when I got you fellas on OTT. haha

The 3-point lift max capacities are at the lift arms. The center of gravity of my M5-4 60" Woods Dixie Cutter bushhog, which comes in at 500lb, is about 4 feet behind the lift arms which increases the force needed to lift a lot, but it runs just fine behind my B2650. It's right at the top weight for implement limitations for a rear single spindle rotary mower.

 

[SDT]

The 3-point lift max capacities are at the lift arms. The center of gravity of my M5-4 60" Woods Dixie Cutter bushhog, which comes in at 500lb, is about 4 feet behind the lift arms which increases the force needed to lift a lot, but it runs just fine behind my B2650. It's right at the top weight for implement limitations for a rear single spindle rotary mower.

Sounds like a good choice.

SDT

 

[B737]

Yea I think I'll look for a lighter 5' cutter. I plan on doing side work with the LX3310.

these two things do not go together ^ when you start doing jobs for brush they are not suitable for light duty cutters like a RCR12 series. A minimum of 18 series, RCF20 series and above. People call you when its has gotten so far out of hand, so thick, that it cant go another day.

 

[RegionRat]

these two things do not go together ^ when you start doing jobs for brush they are not suitable for light duty cutters like a RCR12 series. A minimum of 18 series, RCF20 series and above. People call you when its has gotten so far out of hand, so thick, that it cant go another day.

I agree. The more I consider the idea of side work with the tractor the more I'm convinced it's not a great idea.

 

[litework]

Strongly recommend that you follow the recommended implement limitations in the Operator's Manual with the possible exception of the rotary cutter.

Your 3310 has adequate PTO HP to operate a 60" rotary cutter in nearly all conditions but the Operator's Manual recommends nothing larger than 48" and 500 Lbs.

I use a 60" rotary cutter with my B3350 with a full set of front weights, which must be removed (including weight bracket) when the FEL is installed. PTO power is adequate so weight is the limiting factor, front weights or otherwise. Lift arm attachment structure is questionable for anything heavier and mower weight will push your tractor around in some circumstances. Light duty 60" rotary cutters can be found at around 500 Lbs. If you limit cutter weight to the recommended 500 Lbs., you should be OK at 60".

SDT

I think you can go up to a 72 inch rotary cutter, right? I thought almost all rear mount rotary cutters were two blade [brush cutter] or three blade [finish/grooming]. My dealer put an RCR 1860 on my LX 3310.

 

[RegionRat]

I think you can go up to a 72 inch rotary cutter, right? I thought almost all rear mount rotary cutters were two blade [brush cutter] or three blade [finish/grooming]. My dealer put an RCR 1860 on my LX 3310.

That's interesting considering that the RCR1860 weighs 600 pounds.....100 pounds over the weight limit described in the LX3310 3 point capacity for rotary mowers. Obviously the dealers don't adhere to their own standards

 

[SDT]

That's interesting considering that the RCR1860 weighs 600 pounds.....100 pounds over the weight limit described in the LX3310 3 point capacity for rotary mowers. Obviously the dealers don't adhere to their own standards

Dealers are in business to sell product.

Probably sold what was in stock.

SDT

 

[litework]

Dealers are in business to sell product.

Probably sold what was in stock.

SDT

I don't think it was a stock issue. The economy RCR 1260s are everywhere and this is a pretty large dealership. I don't think that it's a coincidence that it is the more expensive cutter. What I'd like to think is that they looked at my unique situation and decided that this mower was the most appropriate for the tasks I have planned.

 

[B737]

if dealers followed the kubota chart they wouldnt sell anything. Compare the kubota chart to the Land Pride "suggestions" they are in total conflict.

I think 72" might be a little optimistic for LX but 60" is no problem, plenty of users in this thread alone.

 

[Goz63]

if dealers followed the kubota chart they wouldnt sell anything. Compare the kubota chart to the Land Pride "suggestions" they are in total conflict.

I think 72" might be a little optimistic for LX but 60" is no problem, plenty of users in this thread alone.

Does seem like the limits are odd. For the L2501 it says I can use a 60 rotary cutter weighing up to 770 lbs but the box blade maxes out at 694 lbs and only allows a 52 inch. I would think as far back as the rotary cutter is it should be lighter and I use a 60 inch box blade with zero issues.

 

[Taghkanic]

Wondering if anyone else has had experience linking up a RC72-30BB mid-mount mower to the LX3310.

I got my new tractor in October. It arrived with the mower already mounted from the dealership. I did some late Fall mowing with it, then detached it over the winter.

So yesterday was my first adventure hooking the mid-mount mower back up to the 3310. I was well familiar with doing this for my old B2620, and so thought it would be fairly similar.

Things went pretty much as expected... except for a massive headache trying to get the universal joint onto the mid-PTO. The issues I encountered were:

1) The mid-PTO is heavily shielded so that you can’t see it at all unless you can put the tractor on a lift. So everything had to be done by feel.​

​

2) The mower deck is constructed in a way that makes it difficult to lie down on it or alongside it; and it’s also difficult to reach in past the various lifts and shields. (That’s even with me having long arms.)​

​

3) I thought about sliding under the tractor from the back... But I’m a big guy, and also had visions of me winding up as a “man crushed by tractor” story in my local newspaper.​

​

4) The slip on the universal joint has very little “play” to it, and doesn't seem to want to stick in the retracted position for sliding onto the mid-PTO. Without being able to properly see anything and with the limited access, holding everything in place and lining it up was a nightmare.​

​

5) I finally was able to get the two parts aligned and slide the joint just barely on. Again, this was all being done by feel, with no visuals of what was occurring.​

​

6) Due to the shielding and obstructions around the mid-PTO, it was hard to get any leverage to push the joint onto the shaft. After much straining and grunting and cursing, I thought I finally slid it somewhat on—but I did not hear the familiar “click” to indicate it was firmly attached.​

I then started things up and (with the deck covers off), and could see that the belts were spinning. Yay. I took it out for about 10 minutes of test mowing. This was successful... But I am dubious that the joint is actually truly attached, and not going to slip off the mid-PTO once I hit some rougher terrain.

So... Phew. Long message. I’m hoping someone else has gone through this struggle and might have some tips.

 

[Shekkie]

If you are dead set on EA then have it but just shop around and check specs before committing.

 

[Snowman7]

Wondering if anyone else has had experience linking up a RC72-30BB mid-mount mower to the LX3310.

I got my new tractor in October. It arrived with the mower already mounted from the dealership. I did some late Fall mowing with it, then detached it over the winter.

So yesterday was my first adventure hooking the mid-mount mower back up to the 3310. I was well familiar with doing this for my old B2620, and so thought it would be fairly similar.

Things went pretty much as expected... except for a massive headache trying to get the universal joint onto the mid-PTO. The issues I encountered were:

1) The mid-PTO is heavily shielded so that you can’t see it at all unless you can put the tractor on a lift. So everything had to be done by feel.​

​

2) The mower deck is constructed in a way that makes it difficult to lie down on it or alongside it; and it’s also difficult to reach in past the various lifts and shields. (That’s even with me having long arms.)​

​

3) I thought about sliding under the tractor from the back... But I’m a big guy, and also had visions of me winding up as a “man crushed by tractor” story in my local newspaper.​

​

4) The slip on the universal joint has very little “play” to it, and doesn't seem to want to stick in the retracted position for sliding onto the mid-PTO. Without being able to properly see anything and with the limited access, holding everything in place and lining it up was a nightmare.​

​

5) I finally was able to get the two parts aligned and slide the joint just barely on. Again, this was all being done by feel, with no visuals of what was occurring.​

​

6) Due to the shielding and obstructions around the mid-PTO, it was hard to get any leverage to push the joint onto the shaft. After much straining and grunting and cursing, I thought I finally slid it somewhat on—but I did not hear the familiar “click” to indicate it was firmly attached.​

I then started things up and (with the deck covers off), and could see that the belts were spinning. Yay. I took it out for about 10 minutes of test mowing. This was successful... But I am dubious that the joint is actually truly attached, and not going to slip off the mid-PTO once I hit some rougher terrain.

So... Phew. Long message. I’m hoping someone else has gone through this struggle and might have some tips.

I feel your frustration, 100%, complete with memories of 22 spring Seasons. Those memories are the
reason I now own a 60” RFM. It is also very nice to be able to take it off to do all of the other chores
you end up doing with your tractor. I would lay on my back and slide underneath my old JD 770 and after 22 years I still hated that job. You do lose some agility with tight spaces but you also gain in some areas like backing underneath trees. It is also really nice to have that dust cloud 8-10 ft. Behind you instead of under you. The only way I would ever go mmm again would be on a smaller tractor and to have actual nice grass to cut. The dust cloud is not a factor with a nice green and thick rug to cut. I apologize for not helping your situation. All I can say is make sure your driveshaft slides easily and that your coupling and your pto shaft are both lubed up nicely.

I also would never use it without hearing that nice audible click. Very bad and costly things could happen and there would probably be no warning before the Tasmanian devil is loose.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

Post #36 lists 6 'reasons' why you need another tractor
If you think it was frustrating now ,wait for next year or the next or when you're 70......
THEN you'll understand why I don't/won't have a MMM on my BX23S.

It'd really be nice to see the 'engineer' who designed this MMM setup ACTUALLY install it. Things are ALWAYS a LOT easier on paper or 'in the computer'.