Greetings OTT,
After reading through several- "I have a new tractor" posts, I thought it would be helpful for us to post experiences with various implements and possibly what we purchased with our new (to us) tractor and what implements we are still using. I did check for a search relating to this topic (possibly did not use the right search terms).
As we all know, tractor usage and implement needs will vary from one person to another and change as time marches forward. When we purchased our 2012 L3800 DT, R1 tires w chains, 4x4, a loader w bucket (chain hooks), and added a backhoe, rear blade, brush mower, and post hole digger. Initial tractor use was for snow removal and 200+ yd gravel drive maintenance on a 6 ac farm. We then raised beef and lambs and improved pasture, tilled ground for more pasture and never got around to fencing it all off. We have since moved to a timber lot and now are maintaining a family forest, and eventually will add some fence, clear trees for grass, and improve former CRP ground. We maintain a longer drive and push more snow as a result.
OTT community, please chime in with your use implement experience as you see fit
-L3800 gear drive: runs great. 480+ hours and has not even hiccupped. I was influenced by tractor owners suspicious of anything "automatic" (my trusted uncle and his friends) so I bought a gear drive tractor. Knowing what I know now I would have purchased the HST which was only about $1K more expensive at the time. HST transmissions are built to last. Since we don't have the HST, for loader/bucket work we run it between low/high/reverse 2nd gear and for grapple use low/high/reverse 3rd.
-4x4: almost always- we live on a mountain and use it most days. 4x4 gives extra traction for all dirt and snow use too and pulling cars back on the road. Even if a person thinks they will not use it, I would strongly recommend getting 4 x 4 as it does not cost much more money and it helps with resale value.
-Tire chains: used everyday- eventually, I found really great diamond pattern, ice cleat rear chains, that felt like such a hassle to put on that they have been on every day for the last 9 years. yes... It increases its wear. I could not imagine not having tire chains in snow country, especially on a mountain side.
-R1 tires: I read that if one wanted really good traction on a hillside, and wet grass, and muddy situations ( which we currently have) then I should buy R1 tires, so I did. I would not buy them again. R4 tires are wider, feel more stable (to me) for loader use, and are more durable. There is a probable trade off with the whole mud and traction business, but I would still rather have had the R4 tires. If you buy r4's you will need wheel spacers for tire chains.
-Tire Ballast- Rim guard in the rear tires. The dealer would not sell the tractor without rear ballast. Probably a great idea.
-loader w bucket: used often- I have never taken it off, we use often for the bucket. I fashioned a boom pole for the pallet forks and bucket to set 16 foot log/beams on top of 11 foot posts and place rafters for a pole shed we still are still building. I realize there are some that feel they never need one, but somehow a tractor without a loader only seems like half a tractor to me.
-SSQA: Used often- if you have a choice. get the SSQA on your loader-opens up the world of loader easy implement changes.
-3 weld on bucket chain hooks- used often- dealer installed. ANY tractor should have them added to the top of the bucket. We use them (with chain) for pulling posts, lifting implements, and several other useful things.
-clamp on pallet forks: occasional use- The clamp on pallet forks and a pallet have made for a very stable scaffold for painting, building, etc... for #350 more dollars at the time of purchase I could have bought a 48" dedicated SSQA pallet fork. Buy the QA version- they are better all around.
-Clamp on bucket trailer hitch- used occasionally- my uncle made mine for me out of scrap. I use it move the trailers into tight spaces that my limited trailer skills can't get into.
-Backhoe: used occasionally-BH 77 with 16 inch bucket and manual thumb. I used it a lot to clear approximately 2-3 acres of 30 year plus wild rose that took up almost 2-3 acres of pasture. We have used it for trenching, will use it for holding logs to cut firewood, and used it as a boom. I probably only use it 2 or 3 times per year at this time but I would not get rid of it.
-Post hole digger:almost never used I can count on one hand how many days I have used it in 10 years. It should get more use going forward but if I could do it again at my initial purchase, I wouldn't. I could have saved $1300 (and paid for the HST).
-LP 1260: limited use- I now use it twice a year to cut a walking path through the set aside and access roads. Last year I used it to cut down a bunch of wild roses. Knowing what I know now, I would have bought a more robust version of a brush mower.
-3rd function valve:used often- It runs the grapple and angle function of the snow blade. should have added it when we bought the tractor.
-30+ gal 3 pt boom and spot sprayer (electric motor):not yet used- a friend gave this to me last year. We have done just fine with a backpack sprayer and 4 wheeler mounted boom sprayer.
-Wicked 55 Grapple:used often- I have had it for 3 years and had moved at least 15 tons of brush (taken to the landfill and weighed), dug up lots of wild rose at our new property, cleaned up lots of bark after splitting wood, leveled some ground with the tines. We move logs on and off trailers with it and stack logs. There seems to be an almost endless supply of work for the grapple. We have a limited lift capacity for our loader (about 840# all the way up and about #1500 up to 3 ft) and this very useful tool does not take up too much of its capacity. I did not need it when we brought the tractor but when we moved I had lots of brush ( still have lots of brush and junipers) to remove.
-2 bottom plow- not yet used old but excellent Dearborn plow. It looks really neat. I have never used it but somehow a plow and tractor just go together. I considered attaching a mailbox to the top of it so it would get used. We will probably keep it because one day that will be the tool that we need...
-2 row cultivator 6ft: rare use-It is about his old as the Dearborn plow but still in great shape. I have used it a few times preparing the ground for seeding. mostly it sits. I will probably be using it in the next few years as we clear more trees and plant 7 acres of set aside land in pasture grass.
- 5 ft Disc harrow: rare use-used in conjunction with the cultivator to seed the former 2-3 acres of wild rose. Mostly it is a home for hornets
. But 1 day...
-Snowblower FarmKing SB60: rare use- 3 pt mounted. have not used it much in 5-6 years, but I sure could have used it this winter, I just didn't have it ready. If you have one, store it under a tarp or equipment shed for the day you need it, otherwise it will be packed full of snow and ice...
-7 ft land pride RB 3784 (rear blade): often used- I just got done using it before this post for regrading the driveway and reclaiming gravel from the edge of the drive/road. it offsets, angles, and tilts. I use it for ditching, grading the road, moving dirt, plowing snow and even towing my magnum otter sled full of firewood during deep winter.
-side plates for the RB3784- Never used- seemed like a good idea to keep snow and gravel from spilling out when using the blade. I put one side on and decided it was more hassle than any material spilling over. I just angle the blade more to limit the spilling over problem. Wouldn't buy them again. ANYONE interested in a set of side plates, seriously.
- 60" LP box blade w rippers: occasional use- purchased at the former farmhouse and I never used it because the rear blade was much easier to use for grading and moving gravel ( at least for me). Since we moved, I have used it to clean up and widen old access roads. I know many people use it extensively and state it is 1 of the first implements to buy.
-brillion seeder/cultipacker- rare use-I have only used the packing function. My neighbor gave it to me and I spent a few $100 rehabbing it.
- spike drag harrow: rare use- I have 3 that connect together on a rod for a 12 foot spike drag Harrow. I have only used it a few times to flatten out some bumpy ground. I have found that a smaller section with blocks attached to it work better while running the 4 wheeler at 15+ mph.
-LP 3pt spreader-occasional use- we probably use it twice a year for broadcast spreading granular fertilizer and limited overseeding.
-3 pt quick attach- used often- harbor freight variety with better online purchased top hook. I use it w/ most rear implements. It skids logs too. I am going to have some chain hooks welded to it and square tube for a trailer hitch. The problem is you need to add Cat 3 bushings ($20-30/set) for your implements. It would have been better and cheaper to buy the speeco QH as the lift arms are Cat 1 size so NO bushings needed, and the top hook is the correct size/angle.
Before you consider buying implements it would be advisable to really think about what your current needs are and what you want to be doing in the next year or so and buy accordingly. Also... consider get a bigger tractor than what you initially think you will need.
After reading through several- "I have a new tractor" posts, I thought it would be helpful for us to post experiences with various implements and possibly what we purchased with our new (to us) tractor and what implements we are still using. I did check for a search relating to this topic (possibly did not use the right search terms).
As we all know, tractor usage and implement needs will vary from one person to another and change as time marches forward. When we purchased our 2012 L3800 DT, R1 tires w chains, 4x4, a loader w bucket (chain hooks), and added a backhoe, rear blade, brush mower, and post hole digger. Initial tractor use was for snow removal and 200+ yd gravel drive maintenance on a 6 ac farm. We then raised beef and lambs and improved pasture, tilled ground for more pasture and never got around to fencing it all off. We have since moved to a timber lot and now are maintaining a family forest, and eventually will add some fence, clear trees for grass, and improve former CRP ground. We maintain a longer drive and push more snow as a result.
OTT community, please chime in with your use implement experience as you see fit
-L3800 gear drive: runs great. 480+ hours and has not even hiccupped. I was influenced by tractor owners suspicious of anything "automatic" (my trusted uncle and his friends) so I bought a gear drive tractor. Knowing what I know now I would have purchased the HST which was only about $1K more expensive at the time. HST transmissions are built to last. Since we don't have the HST, for loader/bucket work we run it between low/high/reverse 2nd gear and for grapple use low/high/reverse 3rd.
-4x4: almost always- we live on a mountain and use it most days. 4x4 gives extra traction for all dirt and snow use too and pulling cars back on the road. Even if a person thinks they will not use it, I would strongly recommend getting 4 x 4 as it does not cost much more money and it helps with resale value.
-Tire chains: used everyday- eventually, I found really great diamond pattern, ice cleat rear chains, that felt like such a hassle to put on that they have been on every day for the last 9 years. yes... It increases its wear. I could not imagine not having tire chains in snow country, especially on a mountain side.
-R1 tires: I read that if one wanted really good traction on a hillside, and wet grass, and muddy situations ( which we currently have) then I should buy R1 tires, so I did. I would not buy them again. R4 tires are wider, feel more stable (to me) for loader use, and are more durable. There is a probable trade off with the whole mud and traction business, but I would still rather have had the R4 tires. If you buy r4's you will need wheel spacers for tire chains.
-Tire Ballast- Rim guard in the rear tires. The dealer would not sell the tractor without rear ballast. Probably a great idea.
-loader w bucket: used often- I have never taken it off, we use often for the bucket. I fashioned a boom pole for the pallet forks and bucket to set 16 foot log/beams on top of 11 foot posts and place rafters for a pole shed we still are still building. I realize there are some that feel they never need one, but somehow a tractor without a loader only seems like half a tractor to me.
-SSQA: Used often- if you have a choice. get the SSQA on your loader-opens up the world of loader easy implement changes.
-3 weld on bucket chain hooks- used often- dealer installed. ANY tractor should have them added to the top of the bucket. We use them (with chain) for pulling posts, lifting implements, and several other useful things.
-clamp on pallet forks: occasional use- The clamp on pallet forks and a pallet have made for a very stable scaffold for painting, building, etc... for #350 more dollars at the time of purchase I could have bought a 48" dedicated SSQA pallet fork. Buy the QA version- they are better all around.
-Clamp on bucket trailer hitch- used occasionally- my uncle made mine for me out of scrap. I use it move the trailers into tight spaces that my limited trailer skills can't get into.
-Backhoe: used occasionally-BH 77 with 16 inch bucket and manual thumb. I used it a lot to clear approximately 2-3 acres of 30 year plus wild rose that took up almost 2-3 acres of pasture. We have used it for trenching, will use it for holding logs to cut firewood, and used it as a boom. I probably only use it 2 or 3 times per year at this time but I would not get rid of it.
-Post hole digger:almost never used I can count on one hand how many days I have used it in 10 years. It should get more use going forward but if I could do it again at my initial purchase, I wouldn't. I could have saved $1300 (and paid for the HST).
-LP 1260: limited use- I now use it twice a year to cut a walking path through the set aside and access roads. Last year I used it to cut down a bunch of wild roses. Knowing what I know now, I would have bought a more robust version of a brush mower.
-3rd function valve:used often- It runs the grapple and angle function of the snow blade. should have added it when we bought the tractor.
-30+ gal 3 pt boom and spot sprayer (electric motor):not yet used- a friend gave this to me last year. We have done just fine with a backpack sprayer and 4 wheeler mounted boom sprayer.
-Wicked 55 Grapple:used often- I have had it for 3 years and had moved at least 15 tons of brush (taken to the landfill and weighed), dug up lots of wild rose at our new property, cleaned up lots of bark after splitting wood, leveled some ground with the tines. We move logs on and off trailers with it and stack logs. There seems to be an almost endless supply of work for the grapple. We have a limited lift capacity for our loader (about 840# all the way up and about #1500 up to 3 ft) and this very useful tool does not take up too much of its capacity. I did not need it when we brought the tractor but when we moved I had lots of brush ( still have lots of brush and junipers) to remove.
-2 bottom plow- not yet used old but excellent Dearborn plow. It looks really neat. I have never used it but somehow a plow and tractor just go together. I considered attaching a mailbox to the top of it so it would get used. We will probably keep it because one day that will be the tool that we need...
-2 row cultivator 6ft: rare use-It is about his old as the Dearborn plow but still in great shape. I have used it a few times preparing the ground for seeding. mostly it sits. I will probably be using it in the next few years as we clear more trees and plant 7 acres of set aside land in pasture grass.
- 5 ft Disc harrow: rare use-used in conjunction with the cultivator to seed the former 2-3 acres of wild rose. Mostly it is a home for hornets
. But 1 day...-Snowblower FarmKing SB60: rare use- 3 pt mounted. have not used it much in 5-6 years, but I sure could have used it this winter, I just didn't have it ready. If you have one, store it under a tarp or equipment shed for the day you need it, otherwise it will be packed full of snow and ice...
-7 ft land pride RB 3784 (rear blade): often used- I just got done using it before this post for regrading the driveway and reclaiming gravel from the edge of the drive/road. it offsets, angles, and tilts. I use it for ditching, grading the road, moving dirt, plowing snow and even towing my magnum otter sled full of firewood during deep winter.
-side plates for the RB3784- Never used- seemed like a good idea to keep snow and gravel from spilling out when using the blade. I put one side on and decided it was more hassle than any material spilling over. I just angle the blade more to limit the spilling over problem. Wouldn't buy them again. ANYONE interested in a set of side plates, seriously.
- 60" LP box blade w rippers: occasional use- purchased at the former farmhouse and I never used it because the rear blade was much easier to use for grading and moving gravel ( at least for me). Since we moved, I have used it to clean up and widen old access roads. I know many people use it extensively and state it is 1 of the first implements to buy.
-brillion seeder/cultipacker- rare use-I have only used the packing function. My neighbor gave it to me and I spent a few $100 rehabbing it.
- spike drag harrow: rare use- I have 3 that connect together on a rod for a 12 foot spike drag Harrow. I have only used it a few times to flatten out some bumpy ground. I have found that a smaller section with blocks attached to it work better while running the 4 wheeler at 15+ mph.
-LP 3pt spreader-occasional use- we probably use it twice a year for broadcast spreading granular fertilizer and limited overseeding.
-3 pt quick attach- used often- harbor freight variety with better online purchased top hook. I use it w/ most rear implements. It skids logs too. I am going to have some chain hooks welded to it and square tube for a trailer hitch. The problem is you need to add Cat 3 bushings ($20-30/set) for your implements. It would have been better and cheaper to buy the speeco QH as the lift arms are Cat 1 size so NO bushings needed, and the top hook is the correct size/angle.
Before you consider buying implements it would be advisable to really think about what your current needs are and what you want to be doing in the next year or so and buy accordingly. Also... consider get a bigger tractor than what you initially think you will need
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