Ideas for improving cutting edge on B2782B front mount snowblower

[1971Corvette]

Simply put, the cutting edge on my front end B2782B snowblower is terrible. If we get any type of wet heavy snow, and especially if anyone has driven down the driveway before clearing, the cutting edge simply rides on top of the snow leaving behind a layer that eventually packs to ice and stays for weeks in the shaded (and steeply sloping) section of my driveway.

As part of a trial and error effort I've removed the shoes from the side of the blower completely. That didn't make any significant difference. I've resorted to putting downpressure on the blower which definitely helps, but having the front wheels off the ground doesn't work great for steering. It also causes the front of the cutting edge to get worn down such that, when I'm not putting downpressure on the snowblower (just in "float mode") the angle worn into the cutting edge causes the snowblower to ride up on the snow rather than cutting down into it.

I've been told this is a known challenge so I'm curious to hear what have other's done to address the issue. Are improved cutting edges available? Has anyone created their own? I've done a fair bit of metal work and I have some ideas on what could improve the performance, but thought I'd start here.

I've debated getting a rear-mounted scraper blade for the back but, after spending big $$ on this blower, the thought of spending another couple grand on a scraper blade is less than appealing.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

hmm, can you 'angle' the shoes ? This will tilt the blower 'box' and the scraping blade.
My shoes are slotted ,so you can 'angle' them.

 

[bearskinner]

I picked up my rear blade fir $300. Well worth the effort of blowing away light snow, then blading into frozen stuff, creating two rows down the road (4 passes) then go back and blow it off.

 

[number two]

Is your driveway gravel,concrete,or other?

 

[1971Corvette]

Bearskinner - do you have any photos of the rear blade you use?

Number two - our driveway is paved.

 

[ffffox2]

Simply put, the cutting edge on my front end B2782B snowblower is terrible. If we get any type of wet heavy snow, and especially if anyone has driven down the driveway before clearing, the cutting edge simply rides on top of the snow leaving behind a layer that eventually packs to ice and stays for weeks in the shaded (and steeply sloping) section of my driveway.

As part of a trial and error effort I've removed the shoes from the side of the blower completely. That didn't make any significant difference. I've resorted to putting downpressure on the blower which definitely helps, but having the front wheels off the ground doesn't work great for steering. It also causes the front of the cutting edge to get worn down such that, when I'm not putting downpressure on the snowblower (just in "float mode") the angle worn into the cutting edge causes the snowblower to ride up on the snow rather than cutting down into it.

I've been told this is a known challenge so I'm curious to hear what have other's done to address the issue. Are improved cutting edges available? Has anyone created their own? I've done a fair bit of metal work and I have some ideas on what could improve the performance, but thought I'd start here.

I've debated getting a rear-mounted scraper blade for the back but, after spending big $$ on this blower, the thought of spending another couple grand on a scraper blade is less than appealing.

I just purchased a rear mounted blade after almost a year of being on the fence ($$$ expensive new) but I can honestly say it solved all my problems I had with snow clearing last year ( same as you have listed. I would not purchase a front snowblower without the rear blade if I hade to buy agai.

 

[atitus]

I've been considering getting a rear blade but wondered if there would be enough weight to make it effective and also would it damage driveway (asphalt). It's true blower has a hard time with ice or hard packed snow.

 

[ffffox2]

I've been considering getting a rear blade but wondered if there would be enough weight to make it effective and also would it damage driveway (asphalt). It's true blower has a hard time with ice or hard packed snow.

The rear hydraulic lever that will control the blade has a “stop“ on it that controls how low the blade will go. ( good for paved or reasonably flat gravel driveways ) The rear blade also does not float ( so it stays where you set it ) The settings on the level are 1 to 10 . . . I set the stop as soon as the blade touches the pave in my driveway and It was at “ 2” . . . I haven’t tried it any lower but it might put some down pressure ( not sure) I’ve had no issues with how I have it set. Also the blade it self seem heavy enough for a counter weight. I’m totally happy with my purchase. ( except the price . .lol)

 

[GreensvilleJay]

re: if there would be enough weight to make it effective and also would it damage driveway (asphalt).

if you think about it , 100% of snowplow guys' run blades and do NOT damage the paved driveways. did over 100,000 miles,yes miles, pushing snow with a CJ-5 using a Meyers 6'6" blade, only problem was WHERE to push the white..... Used my D-14 with Oxnard rear blade for 4-5 years, worked great AFTER I adjusted the 'forward tilt' of the blade to better mimic a snowplow blade 'geometry'. Rear 3PH setups usually 'float' for most tractor makes (cept Russian ones...)

 

[atitus]

I have a BX so no position control on the 3pt but I'd want it when the snow was packed down so I assume id have to have it all the way down dragging on the pavement to scrape up the ice/snow. I've seen those ones with adjustable attack angle, that would be on my wish list, which only seems to get longer with tractor stuff, lol

 

[DustyRusty]

Simply put, the cutting edge on my front end B2782B snowblower is terrible. If we get any type of wet heavy snow, and especially if anyone has driven down the driveway before clearing, the cutting edge simply rides on top of the snow leaving behind a layer that eventually packs to ice and stays for weeks in the shaded (and steeply sloping) section of my driveway.

As part of a trial and error effort I've removed the shoes from the side of the blower completely. That didn't make any significant difference. I've resorted to putting downpressure on the blower which definitely helps, but having the front wheels off the ground doesn't work great for steering. It also causes the front of the cutting edge to get worn down such that, when I'm not putting downpressure on the snowblower (just in "float mode") the angle worn into the cutting edge causes the snowblower to ride up on the snow rather than cutting down into it.

I've been told this is a known challenge so I'm curious to hear what have other's done to address the issue. Are improved cutting edges available? Has anyone created their own? I've done a fair bit of metal work and I have some ideas on what could improve the performance, but thought I'd start here.

I've debated getting a rear-mounted scraper blade for the back but, after spending big $$ on this blower, the thought of spending another couple grand on a scraper blade is less than appealing.

Easy solution, remove the cutting edge and take it down to a place that sells steel, and have them give you a piece of steel the same length, and thickness, but an inch wider, so it will hang down a bit further. Depending on the quality of the steel, it will wear down and eventually need to be replaced, but it should do what you want it to do for the least amount of expense. The most difficult part will be drilling the holes for the bolts, but the steel shop that I use has a machine to broach the holes quickly and they don't charge very much to do it. If you have the old one with you they will have the correct spacing and location. The factory cutting edges are designed to be flipped when they wear down so you might be able to do the same with yours after it wears down after a few seasons.

 

[skeets]

Or have somebody at a welding shop hard face it maybe

 

[nbryan]

I just push the blower down with the joystick and raise the front wheels an inch or 2, and with the brake pedals unlinked, steer with right/left brake action and hydrostatic trans speed control.
The shoes are adjusted as high as they can go.
The tractor front end and blower weight rubs out any packed snow I have needed to remove in my 6 winters using it so far.