Hello. I bought that B7800. I love it. I know I paid a premium price. But I was so stressed out from the last deal, I just wanted it over. The loader was hardly used. The back tires are not filled. I moved the tractor so the stems were on the bottom, then let some air out nothing came out but air. So that means they are not filled right? Should I but a box for the back for weight? Or have the tires filled? Don't they also fill them with foam? How would I know if that's in there? Thanks.
I need some weight for the back
- Thread starter filix
- Start date
Well if the valves we at 6 O'clock and just air came out then they are not filled. You can fill them easy enough if you want to take the time and do it. Some guys use windshield fluid, some use anti freeze ,some just use water if they have tubes in the tires and its not going to freeze.
If you have a look around in here there are a ton of ideas on weights for the 3 point, from really neat welded up units to small plastic drums and plywood boxes filled with cement.
And congrad on your NTY little orange beasty
If you have a look around in here there are a ton of ideas on weights for the 3 point, from really neat welded up units to small plastic drums and plywood boxes filled with cement.
And congrad on your NTY little orange beasty
North Idaho Wolfman
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They normally do not foam fill the rears on these because they ride like a rock when you do, but if they were filled you wouldn't have air coming out.
Fill the rears with a suitable non freezing fluid, that will depend on your climate, Here beat juice ( Brand name Rim Guard) is the best, then Calcium chloride and magnesium chloride, Glycerin antifreeze (RV / Water system safe) antifreeze, then glycol (automotive type).
We can't use soap or windshield washer fluid (alcohol) based because we get too cold and it will freeze.
I would also either get a ballast box or make a weight for the rear 300 to 500lbs on that model will make the world of difference.
Fill the rears with a suitable non freezing fluid, that will depend on your climate, Here beat juice ( Brand name Rim Guard) is the best, then Calcium chloride and magnesium chloride, Glycerin antifreeze (RV / Water system safe) antifreeze, then glycol (automotive type).
We can't use soap or windshield washer fluid (alcohol) based because we get too cold and it will freeze.
I would also either get a ballast box or make a weight for the rear 300 to 500lbs on that model will make the world of difference.
Filling the tires would be a good choice but still may not be enough depending on what task you're doing but it does make a big difference. I have mine filled with water and anti-freeze and if I need more weight I'll put my box scrape on the back.
Don't know what tractor you have but are the rear tires filled? That makes a big difference and then if you need more weight maybe a carry-all for firewood and either a blade or box scrape would be a good choice for snow. I'm not knocking the ballast boxes but I would rather have a usefull tool on the rear instead of just a box. My $.02 only.
As some others have said, fill the rear tires with windshield washer fluid or a good none freezing fluid. You will find that a little over 8 pounds per gallon makes a lot of difference. Plus you will get tired of putting on and taking off a weight box. I just filled my little BX's with washer fluid. Got a little electric fuel pump and the adapter for doing this off of flea bay for like 15.00 and the fluid for
30.00 or so. Real easy to do just takes a little time and you dont have to worry about adding and removing the weights from the rear again. Mine added about 200 pounds total to the rear tires. No weight is supported this way by the frame.
30.00 or so. Real easy to do just takes a little time and you dont have to worry about adding and removing the weights from the rear again. Mine added about 200 pounds total to the rear tires. No weight is supported this way by the frame.
RBA50
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B2320, LA304 loader (B1658 QA), B2789 snowblower, RCK54-29B MMM, HF quick hitch
Filling the rear tires is great. It will increase stability and traction. BUT, it will not help transfer weight off the front axle when you are using the loader. The front axle is not as strong as the rear, and pretty much all manufacturers recommend weight on the 3 pt when doing serious loader work. This helps reduce the load on the front by using the rear axle as a fulcrum, allowing the frame of the tractor to pivot, lessening the weight on the front.
Are there any plans or videos for making the plywood box? When you fill the tires are you filling the tubes? Because my B7800 doesn't have tubes. Which is better, considering what RBA50 said about using rear axle as a fulcrum? Making a plywood box is very easy of course. I'm a carpenter Putting the metal parts in the concrete to line up with the 3 points is what Im not clear about. Thank you very much.
Putting the metal parts in the concrete to line up with the 3 points is what Im not clear about. Thank you very much.
85Hokie
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lets look at the situation again......Are there any plans or videos for making the plywood box? When you fill the tires are you filling the tubes? Because my B7800 doesn't have tubes. Which is better, considering what RBA50 said about using rear axle as a fulcrum? Making a plywood box is very easy of course. I'm a carpenter
ANYTHING you place IN a bucket ON your front end places a load on the front axle! Now if your rear tires are off the ground, then you have 100% on the front........anytime you move the weight backwards, more load is "more" evenly distributed. Loaded tires will help big time ( large set of rears on that ol girl there)
and yes the tubes are loaded - or rims without tubes are loaded (NaCl is heavy but I would not use that - you have lots of choices )
if you are a cleaver carpenter - and I bet you are - make a steel skeleton that allows the points of the three point to stick out and then "box" around it with the plywood - little rebar in the mix helps a lot too. DO you anyone around that has a 3 point anything that you could measure the points? I will do some math and get back to ya if you do not get the numbers you need - send me a PM if you wish.
I made an angle iron frame, lined it with plywood and put 6 80# concrete blocks in it. Left enough room on top to put chains and stuff in.
I appreciate the responses. NaCl is heavy but I would not use that" What is NaCl? In Utopia thanks for the pic, that would work. So if the tires are loaded with or without tubes, I guess just use something that is not corrosive to the rim. Thanks a lot.
ShaunBlake
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NaCl is the acronym for the chemical sodium chloride. He wouldn't use it for ballast in his tires because it ruins the rims in pretty short order.
I decided to just bite the bullet. I bought a Kubota ballast box. Is it good to fill the tires also? And if the ballast box is empty, is it ok to just leave it on? I think it weighs about 100lbs. And is it ok to leave it in the up postion? The only drag about leaving it on is I can't get to the draw bar to pull trees down when I'm cutting. So I will have to take it off to do that. Unless there is another way.
Definitely get your tires filled with the most weight you can get in them. It's like a night and day difference with ride quality and stability. Putting a lot of weight on the 3pt without filled tires will give it a bouncy ride and it's not a good feeling. Think of it this way... Filled tires puts all of that weight directly on the ground where you want it. Weight on the 3pt is up in the air. If there is just air in the tires, every bump and slope will move that weight around causing the tractor to bounce and shift side to side. At the same time, filled tires on that machine aren't enough for FEL work so it was a good choice adding weight to the 3pt.
A lot of folks, including me, choose to use counterweight that serves a purpose instead of dead weight. If you are doing a lot of tree work, you may want to look into a log winch skidder setup (or what ever they are called). In Utopia's setup looks like it can drag a log or two.
A lot of folks, including me, choose to use counterweight that serves a purpose instead of dead weight. If you are doing a lot of tree work, you may want to look into a log winch skidder setup (or what ever they are called
). In Utopia's setup looks like it can drag a log or two.Recently bought my first Kubota and the dealer included filled tires in the price. Up here water & window washer fluid is not an option and some other fillers have proven corrosive to the rims. They fill their tires with beet juice which they tell me does not freeze and adds over 13 pounds per gallon. 3pt hitch weight is great but look into getting the tires filled. I see no down side to having it done.
Your B7800 was the precursor to the B3200. They are excellent machines, and will save you a lot of manual labor. As another said on this thread, good to have weight in the back that does something other than be a box. A 'box blade' is a good choice. Weighs about 100# a foot, used costs about $50 a foot, and you can connect a drawbar through the back plate, and then it serves double duty.
If you keep your 'weight box', you'll probably just leave whatever you use to weight it, in it. That said, be sure sand is dry, place a heavy plastic bag into the box before pouring in concrete. Coat the interior with oil or Fluid Film. Anything you can think of to keep water from standing at the bottom of that box.
I used RimGuard in my B3200. That is the beet juice mentioned, that is non-corrosive. I did not use tubes.
If you keep your 'weight box', you'll probably just leave whatever you use to weight it, in it. That said, be sure sand is dry, place a heavy plastic bag into the box before pouring in concrete. Coat the interior with oil or Fluid Film. Anything you can think of to keep water from standing at the bottom of that box.
I used RimGuard in my B3200. That is the beet juice mentioned, that is non-corrosive. I did not use tubes.