... Go to a Farm Coop and pick up a class 1 top link, its going to be mild steel anyway so you can modify it anyway you want because the worst case sceniaro is it will break and drop your attachment to the ground and moving at 3 to 5 MPH tramming will not throw you out of the seat! I buy them and cut them in a cut off saw, bevel the ends and add a length of tube stock to increase length for deep earth moving jobs like middle busting sod or trenching and cut out a section to shorten the length for higher lift capacity. I never buy a Kubota OEM because they don't manufacture them anyway because of liability and cost of goods sold. (its not worth tooling up for margin wise) SO my advice is for you to buy one, hit it with a grinder to look at the sparks the grinder puts off ( this tells you the carbon content by the blueness of the spark) the bluer the more % of carbon in the steel. I generally MIG my links but also use SMAW E7018 low hydrogen all position rods in a vertical up position first tracking all four quadrants in a jig as I go, but this is just me and you can get by with a low 60K tensile filler material because the link will fail long before a proper weld get her done......
Bubba your new name is now 'Arcy'.....I stated that kind of welding at Six (6) years old when I took a set of Dad's Diagonals and cut through an over head two wire light fixture because I kept bumping my head on it when I climbed on to his work bench. When he got home from work Mom ratted on me and Dad's answer was ( as I hide under the bed )... "he'll make a good electrician some day". Well, I don't know about 'good', but I did manage to earn my Master's License and spent 12 years in and around the Mines for the Power Company for over 19 years HAHAHAAHAHHAAHAHAHAHA (LOL)
The last seven years I spent in the office and took an early bail out when I couldn't stand not getting my hands dirty anymore. At least now I can run out into the shop and at least look at a Tractor, grab a wrench and pick up a stinger or Tourch! 
