I know it's the wrong color....

[vidio1]

I just picked up a cab for cheap. I know, wrong color, but I think I can make it work. I haven't got all the bugs worked but I've got a few ideas.
I've sifted through dozens of "cab posts" today, but pics of the mating points are kinda of scarce. How are the back of cabs/ under the seat areas sealed off? How about where the loader valve is?
What about the "offset" of the windshield vs the back of the cab, any good pics of filler areas around the rear fenders?
Gotta think this through, but if I get off my butt after winterizing everything else around here I might be able to at least mount it properly by winter.

 

[chim]

Here's a link to my cab build. There may be something you find useful. The attachments are in 4 places and to blank off the area under / behind the seat I used a cow mat trimmed to fit around the seat. I can get some pictures if you're interested. It forms enough of a floor that I can carry a couple small tool bags with the essential pins, pliers, etc.

http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12883

 

[vidio1]

Thanks for the reply. I really like that cab, it's not the typical square box. I've had a canopy on since I bought the tractor so I don't think a cab will bother me too much during the warmer months. I do plan on removable doors and back glass panel. The windshield tilts out, but I might make it removable as well. Looks like the devil is in the details..

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I see in the pictures you have it sitting on the loader cross bar, but when you mount it you'll want to keep a good gap between it and the bar as the bar will flex with loader use, and you wouldn't want that buckling the cab and possibly breaking the glass.

 

[Tooljunkie]

I see in the pictures you have it sitting on the loader cross bar, but when you mount it you'll want to keep a good gap between it and the bar as the bar will flex with loader use, and you wouldn't want that buckling the cab and possibly breaking the glass.

Good catch, i would have not thought of that, yet i have seen loader frames flex.
Buddy's near new green one pretty much floats around like a marshmallow in hot chocolate,aparrently theres some springs built into it. Me no like.between that and crap controls it makes landscape work impossible.

 

[vidio1]

Actually I had planned on using the cross bar. I was going to build a lower "plate" to fill in the space between the windshield and engine cowl, then bolt that "plate" to the cross bar. It would lift the windshield an inch or so and use a couple rollbar clamps. See attached:

https://www.google.com/search?q=rol...9YMKHbviCGQQ_AUICSgC&biw=1280&bih=310#imgrc=_

I think it will allow some flex without being too rigid. It's mostly for the fore & aft of the "firewall" for lack of a better term. The weight should be carried by the lower panel.

Will it work or am I over thinking this?

 

[Lil Foot]

If I was going to use the crossbar, I would look at making a stiff but flexible mount there. Carry most of the weight with mounts in other locations, then maybe use something like a sheet of horse stall mat mounted to the cab, cut to fit around the hood, and attached to the bar minimally, so you get some flex if needed. Might be worth looking at...

 

[L.C. Gray]

All this talk of cabs, heaters and use of the "S" word just freaks us out down here in Texas...

Cab's is made for holding out dust and holding in the Air Conditioning.........