I'm new on forum, going through some older threads so please forgive my dredging stuff up?
Just wanted to reply to the gentleman that suggested using bolts instead of roll pins. In some cases this can cause disaster, I speak from personal experience.
Roll pins are split so there is some built in give & take. They can collapse a bit when needed & expand again. This serves 3 functions.
1] It means that the roll pin is always pushing against the bore it's inserted in over the entire contact surface, causing the pin to hold itself in place. The same is not true of bolts, should the nut loosen or come off.
2] Roll pins are made of some very hard steel alloys, highly resistant to wear & shearing forces. Bolts may be ungraded or grade 3, grade 5, grade 8 or higher. Your average hardware store bolt is ungraded, or possibly a grade 3. That just isn't enough to guarantee against shearing off in a critical component, such as steering etc.
3] If the bolt used is a grade 8 or better [L9] to prevent shearing off, then the bolt itself will cause wear on holes in softer couplings etc, elongating or wallowing out the holes, causing a misfit. If nut comes off bolt will easily fall out of the now larger hole, while a roll pin would have been retained. Also a proper & much safer roll pin will no longer fit in the damaged bore.
You haven't really lived unless you've been racing on a twisty mountain road complete with obligatory cliffs, only to have the grade 5 bolt that you used, instead of a roll pin, shear off on the steering wheel coupler hub. Real strange feeling to be sitting there with the steering wheel in your hands completely out of control. Been there, done that. Hurt.
Potential EXTREME DANGER!
.... Guys... We all know that ain't going to happen. Talk about a compromising position... I'd have a better chance getting one x rated than working on my bota
