Hydraulic top link

[TheOldHokie]

One other option that your inner badger may like is to get a separate DPOCV and use it when needed and bypass it when floating is required. You would need a couple of extra hoses to use.

Here is an example that could be mounted to that large box you have

Double Pilot Operated Hydraulic Check Valve, #6 SAE Ports, 11 GPM

Double Pilot Operated Hydraulic Check Valve, #6 SAE Ports, 11 GPM Free Shipping

summit-hydraulics.com

I have sort of done that. The bottom set of couplers is mounted on the SAE-08 version of that DPOCV block. The top set is on a plain block. So plug into bottom set for DPOCV and top set for float. No extra hoses needed.

Dan

 

[mikester]

Are you saying the hydraulic top link isn't needed, or just the hydraulic lock ?

hydraulic lock not required

hydraulic top link can be a life changer!

 

[TheOldHokie]

If you use that Summit valve for your top link you will immediately regret ordering a top link without DPOCV. It will be a constant minute by minute fight to keep it adjusted. Literally! With a DPOCV it will stay exactly where you put it. I speak from first hand experience

Dan

 

[NCL4701]

All that stuff I said about my experience with the setup on my L is based on OEM valves for the remotes. If the valves had a higher leak rate, it would be a much different experience.

 

[TheOldHokie]

All that stuff I said about my experience with the setup on my L is based on OEM valves for the remotes. If the valves had a higher leak rate, it would be a much different experience.

And Brian @MtnViewRanch thinks your valves leak excessively.

Dan

 

[Paul Allwood]

Thanks all for the replies and suggestions. This won't happen straight away, but I think I'll go with a top link with the hydraulic lock, and for implements that need to float, I'll build it in mechanically.

 

[NCL4701]

And Brian @MtnViewRanch thinks your valves leak excessively.

Dan

If that’s the case, and it probably is as both you and Brian have much more knowledge on the subject than I do, after several years of using a top/tilt with “excessively leaky valves” and no DPOCVs I have no idea why so many operators on this forum are adamant DPOCVs aren’t optional regardless the planned use. For many uses I see the benefit. For many uses, float is worthless. For grading work, you won’t convince me DPOCVs are better than float.

And since I have excessively leaky valves, what I said about the experience may be different if your valves are leakier than mine: I retract that.

 

[TheOldHokie]

If that’s the case, and it probably is as both you and Brian have much more knowledge on the subject than I do, after several years of using a top/tilt with “excessively leaky valves” and no DPOCVs I have no idea why so many operators on this forum are adamant DPOCVs aren’t optional regardless the planned use. For many uses I see the benefit. For many uses, float is worthless. For grading work, you won’t convince me DPOCVs are better than float.

And since I have excessively leaky valves, what I said about the experience may be different if your valves are leakier than mine: I retract that.

I have zero experience with the OEM valves on the L01/L02. I have a couple alternstives I have been trying to complete - we shall see how they work out.

I am with you as regards float. I don't do much grading and the DPOCV completely eliminates drift.

Dan

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Regarding the Kubota rear remote valves. Not all of them are unacceptable. It is a hit and miss type of deal.
There are people that have what I consider an acceptable leakage rate (less than 1/4" per hour rod extension) and then there are those who have the cylinder rod fully extend on its own in only a few minutes, and anywhere in between.
In reality, as far as what is acceptable, if you have to consistently be correcting the cylinder adjustment, thus actually hindering the operation of the tractor, you most likely need a check valve.
Pretty much all rear remote valves on an open-center hydraulic system leak.
There are various ways to deal with the issue. DPOCVs are the most common, that feature may be built into the valve in some cases. Normally, the check valve is built onto the cylinder.
As has been mentioned, it really depends on the severity of the leakage as well as exactly what your main uses are.

Fit Rite Hydraulics offers this feature as an option, knowing that there are conditions that are better served with and without a DPOCV.

I hope that this helps.

 

[McMXi]

As has been mentioned, it really depends on the severity of the leakage as well as exactly what your main uses are.

Exactly. I have zero issues with leak down with either tractor, but I completely understand the advice that if you're starting from scratch it makes sense to avoid the possibility of a significant leak down issue by choosing DPOCV from the get go, or some provision to allow float as well if that's important to the operator.

But options and solutions are good, so the DPOCV block that @Russell King linked to might be the ticket for those already invested in pricey top-n-tilt systems who'd rather not abandon what they have.

 

[mikester]

If you use that Summit valve for your top link you will immediately regret ordering a top link without DPOCV. It will be a constant minute by minute fight to keep it adjusted. Literally! With a DPOCV it will stay exactly where you put it. I speak from first hand experience

Dan

I think leak down is a function of your valves.

I bought one of these cheap 10" stroke units about 5 years ago and spent under CDN$180 including all hoses and fittings

https://www.princessauto.com/en/top-link-cylinders/product/PA1000000426?skuId=8699456

I originally wanted the TNT kit from Fit-rite but was looking at a long lead time. The PrincessAuto one went on sale cheap and I gave it a chance. I'd probably want the check valve for the tilt cylinder if I ever get one. My OEM remotes seem to be holding.

My leak down rate is no worse than my loader i.e. noticeable top-link drop down occurs overnight with the motor off, it's been a non-issue for me while running the tractor and implements. I think it's a lifesaver especially with my QH.

FYI the PA units are on sale now again for CDN$159.99

 

[NCL4701]

Regarding the Kubota rear remote valves. Not all of them are unacceptable. It is a hit and miss type of deal.
There are people that have what I consider an acceptable leakage rate (less than 1/4" per hour rod extension) and then there are those who have the cylinder rod fully extend on its own in only a few minutes, and anywhere in between.
In reality, as far as what is acceptable, if you have to consistently be correcting the cylinder adjustment, thus actually hindering the operation of the tractor, you most likely need a check valve.
Pretty much all rear remote valves on an open-center hydraulic system leak.
There are various ways to deal with the issue. DPOCVs are the most common, that feature may be built into the valve in some cases. Normally, the check valve is built onto the cylinder.
As has been mentioned, it really depends on the severity of the leakage as well as exactly what your main uses are.

Fit Rite Hydraulics offers this feature as an option, knowing that there are conditions that are better served with and without a DPOCV.

I hope that this helps.

Makes me glad my OEM remotes meet the acceptable definition.

 

[McMXi]

I think leak down is a function of your valves.

Yes, and if you have leak down issues and if you're running hydraulics off your rear remotes to things like folding cutters, offset flails, rear angle blades, disc harrows etc., a DPOCV on the top-n-tilt cylinders won't do $hit for you.

This is where that remote DPOCV might again prove to be useful. I could add one between the Summit Hydraulics multiplier and the set of remotes that supply it if I needed to.

 

[TheOldHokie]

I think leak down is a function of your valves.

Absolutely. Thats the whole purpose of a DPOCV.

Dan

 

[Cathy Liebchen]

You should try one sometime - beats the crap out of a manual top link.

Dan

Agree. A hydraulic top link is a must have