Hydraulic top link help needed

[S-G-R]

Backstory

I picked up the top link 2-3 years ago at the dealership parking lot. It was basically brand new. Guy had it for awhile and it didn't suit him. I offered him $100 and he took it. New, it was $350 Canadian back then.

Now

Anything in USD will cost me double to triple by the time it reaches me in Canada.

So for my initial hundred I'll see what the shop will charge to plumb it with a cv. If it's ridiculous, I'll just continue to use it without a cv.

As for the fittings, I think they are standard pipe thread.

 

[S-G-R]

I appreciate all of the help so far from everyone. I think I answered everyone's questions, if not, hit me again.

 

[S-G-R]

Dear OP,

Trust Dan.

He knows his sh!t.

Unless you are some type of "hydraulics Guru" that really knows whats up, you are much better buying one ......

Or, putting the DPOCV elsewhere (just as Dan advised me to do).....but I did not listen, and I should have.

here is my saga.......


https://www.orangetractortalks.com/...-to-shoot-ones-self-in-the-foot-part-1.63695/
Have fun at my expense, but listen to Dan.

Here is part 2

https://www.orangetractortalks.com/...-to-shoot-ones-self-in-the-foot-part-2.64941/

I'll take a spin through this later.

If your local Princess Auto is like mine, there's a GREAT guy in the hydraulics department that'll grab ALL the necessary hoses and fittings, even MAKE the hose while you wait.

Our Princess doesn't do hard piping. Got another spot looking at it tomorrow

 

[TheOldHokie]

I'll take a spin through this later.



Our Princess doesn't do hard piping. Got another spot looking at it tomorrow

Your cylinder has SAE-08 ports. One option would be to disconnect the hoses and connect the C1/C2 ports on one of the block type DPOCV valves to the cylinder with a couple 12" hoses. Then connect the old hoses to the V1/V2 ports on the DPOCV.

DONE.

Dan

 

[S-G-R]

Your cylinder has SAE-08 ports. One option would be to disconnect the hoses and connect the C1/C2 ports on one of the block type DPOCV valves to the cylinder with a couple 12" hoses. Then connect the old hoses to the V1/V2 ports on the DPOCV.

DONE.

Dan

Thank you Dan. I was going to post the pictures earlier in the the day but work has a nasty habit of interfering with fun time although work pays for fun time. It's a vicious circle

 

[Russell King]

One other thing to consider about installing the DPOCVs directly to the cylinder or having it remotely mounted if you have more than one cylinder (top and tilt cylinders for example).

If the valve is remote you can use it on any cylinder that you want to plumb it into. And you can have one cylinder controlled by DPOCV or both with no DPOCV in the cylinders lines at all.

If the valve is mounted directly to one cylinder that is pretty much all it can be used on (without physically moving off that one cylinder) and there is no float available for that cylinder.

It does look really nice mounted directly to the cylinder though.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Your cylinder has SAE-08 ports. One option would be to disconnect the hoses and connect the C1/C2 ports on one of the block type DPOCV valves to the cylinder with a couple 12" hoses. Then connect the old hoses to the V1/V2 ports on the DPOCV.

DONE.

Dan

Dan, are you sure #8 ports? I have never seen #8 ports on a 2" cylinder, typically #6.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I'm not sure if your post is in response to mine above, but I would only disconnect the hydraulic top link If I wanted to remove it from the tractor, either to install the standard top link to free up a pair of rear remotes, or to put it on the shelf when running the folding cutter which connects to the draw bar.

Exactly, there is no reason to remove the hydraulic top link for the manual link. Set the top link adjustment fully retracted and disconnect the couplers. The hydraulic top link will stay exactly as adjusted when the couplers are disconnected. Just fasten the hose ends up out of the way with a bungee or the like.

This frees up a set of couplers for you to use without removing the hydraulic top link.

 

[mcmxi]

Exactly, there is no reason to remove the hydraulic top link for the manual link. Set the top link adjustment fully retracted and disconnect the couplers. The hydraulic top link will stay exactly as adjusted when the couplers are disconnected. Just fasten the hose ends up out of the way with a bungee or the like.

This frees up a set of couplers for you to use without removing the hydraulic top link.

With the MX and snow blower, I remove the hydraulic top link and use the standard link in its place, then connect the chute rotation and chute deflection to two pairs of rear remotes, and keep the hydraulic side link connected (FD valve) to the third pair of remotes and put that in float mode.

I'm not sure if this is what you meant, but are you saying that with the snow blower on, I could set the length of the hydraulic top link to get the snow blower adjusted properly, then disconnect it from the rear remotes, and use it like a fixed length top link. If that's what you meant, that's an interesting idea, and perhaps another reason to add check valves to the hydraulic top links on both tractors.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Just to be clear, you DO NOT need the check valves to hold the cylinder in place when the couplers are disconnected. When the couplers are disconnected, the top links will hold their adjustment as they currently are, NO DPOCVs are required for the cylinders to be locked in place while the couplers are disconnected.

 

[mcmxi]

Just to be clear, you DO NOT need the check valves to hold the cylinder in place when the couplers are disconnected. When the couplers are disconnected, the top links will hold their adjustment as they currently are, NO DPOCVs are required for the cylinders to be locked in place while the couplers are disconnected.

Ha! Ha! Now I'm following. It's been a long day!