Hydraulic top link help needed

[S-G-R]

I have a hydraulic top link that I would like to add a check valve to. Would one of these work?

https://www.princessauto.com/en/6-gpm-single-pilot-operated-check-valve/product/PA0008689218

https://www.princessauto.com/en/dual-pilot-operated-check-valves/product/PA1000000769

 

[mcmxi]

I have a hydraulic top link that I would like to add a check valve to. Would one of these work?

https://www.princessauto.com/en/6-gpm-single-pilot-operated-check-valve/product/PA0008689218

https://www.princessauto.com/en/dual-pilot-operated-check-valves/product/PA1000000769

You want a double pilot check valve for your cylinder like the one in the link below. The link has some good information on how it works.

Double Pilot Operated Hydraulic Check Valve, #6 SAE Ports, 11 GPM

Double Pilot Operated Hydraulic Check Valve, #6 SAE Ports, 11 GPM Free Shipping

summit-hydraulics.com

 

[GreensvilleJay]

the double for sure though no real need for 11GPM.
it's a small cylinder,ain't moving far and only for a few seconds.....

 

[S-G-R]

That one is a bit rich for me. About $208 Canadian and then duty on top.

 

[S-G-R]

@TheOldHokie these are the specs for the second link in my first post

 

[mcmxi]

That one is a bit rich for me. About $208 Canadian and then duty on top.

View attachment 142082

I only meant that it's the type of check valve you need, not that you should by that particular one. My apologies for the confusion.

 

[S-G-R]

I only meant that it's the type of check valve you need, not that you should by that particular one. My apologies for the confusion.

Gotcha, that stuff is out of my area of expertise.

 

[TheOldHokie]

I have a hydraulic top link that I would like to add a check valve to. Would one of these work?

https://www.princessauto.com/en/6-gpm-single-pilot-operated-check-valve/product/PA0008689218

https://www.princessauto.com/en/dual-pilot-operated-check-valves/product/PA1000000769

Either one will work but they do not mount directly on the top link itself. Do you already have the top link and how are you planning on installing the check valve?

Dan

 

[MtnViewRanch]

What type-size ports do you have on your top link?
I would think that you would want something similar to what is pictured.

 

[mcmxi]

What type-size ports do you have on your top link?
I would think that you would want something similar to what is pictured.

So if you already have an hydraulic top link, how hard is it to add a check valve like the one shown, and in a similar configuration? I wouldn't imagine that it's much of a challenge.

 

[TheOldHokie]

So if you already have an hydraulic top link, how hard is it to add a check valve like the one shown, and in a similar configuration? I wouldn't imagine that it's much of a challenge.

Might be more than you think. Just ask @Runs With Scissors....

The biggest issue is you need banjo fittings that will fit the ports on the cylinder and hydraulic tube to create the proper spacing.

Thats why I askef if he already purchased the top link. Easier and probably cheaper to buy one that comes complete with a valve.

Dan


..

 

[jimmyjoe]

I have a hydraulic top link that I would like to add a check valve to. Would one of these work?

https://www.princessauto.com/en/6-gpm-single-pilot-operated-check-valve/product/PA0008689218

https://www.princessauto.com/en/dual-pilot-operated-check-valves/product/PA1000000769

Northern tool , $79.99


Buyers Products, NPT Double Check Valve, GPM 15 Working Port 1/2 in, Max. PSI 3625 Model# HCVD08
Item# 4901797
Top Seller

 

[mcmxi]

Might be more than you think. Just ask @Runs With Scissors....

The biggest issue is you need banjo fittings that will fit the ports on the cylinder and hydraulic tube to create the proper spacing.

Thats why I askef if he already purchased the top link. Easier and probably cheaper to buy one that comes complete with a valve.

Dan
..

That's a fair point and @S-G-R might be better off buying a turnkey solution. I'm interested to see where this thread ends up. I have hydraulic top links on both tractors and have thought about doing what @S-G-R is considering, particularly since I don't float the top link.

I've never really looked into this and what's involved, but sometimes it's not always about the money. Sometimes the learning experience is worth the time, effort and cost, but that's for each person to decide. I'd need to get a better idea of what a replacement cylinder would cost, but looking at the spreadsheets that I have on the MX and M tractors, top-n-tilt cost me $911 and $1,605 respectively. I have the breakdown on the M cylinders but not the MX. The top link cylinder for the M was $485.

 

[mcmxi]

Looking at the literature below (taken from the user manuals for the check valves in the first post), it appears that a dual pilot check valve prevents movement of the cylinder in both directions when the control valve is in the neutral position. The single pilot check valve would allow the cylinder to collapse but not extend when the control valve is in the neutral position. Is this everyone else's understanding?

If this is correct I'd prefer the dual pilot variety since it offers more control of an implement.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Pretty much why the manufacturers of the links that provide the check valves, only provide DPOCVs on them.

Fit Rite provides them with DPOCVs or none as well as other options.

 

[Runs With Scissors]

Might be more than you think. Just ask @Runs With Scissors....

The biggest issue is you need banjo fittings that will fit the ports on the cylinder and hydraulic tube to create the proper spacing.

Thats why I askef if he already purchased the top link. Easier and probably cheaper to buy one that comes complete with a valve.

Dan


..

Dear OP,

Trust Dan.

He knows his sh!t.

Unless you are some type of "hydraulics Guru" that really knows whats up, you are much better buying one ......

Or, putting the DPOCV elsewhere (just as Dan advised me to do).....but I did not listen, and I should have.

here is my saga.......


https://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/threads/top-and-tilt-debacle-a-pictorial-guide-on-how-to-shoot-ones-self-in-the-foot-part-1.63695/

Have fun at my expense, but listen to Dan.

Here is part 2

https://www.orangetractortalks.com/...-to-shoot-ones-self-in-the-foot-part-2.64941/

 

[mcmxi]

@S-G-R, I don't know how much money you have invested in a top link cylinder, but if it's substantial and you want to add a check valve, the following solution or something similar could work well and at a reasonable cost. A new cylinder with check valve but no hoses is around $200 from Summit Hydraulics so the final cost might be a wash. It would annoy me to have a $485 cylinder laying around and doing nothing, so adding the check valve to a bracket is the route I would probably take.

I would need a couple of quick disconnects at 3A/3B to mate with the quick disconnects already on the hoses. This would allow me to swap out the hydraulic cylinder for the standard top link as I do now.

I would then need two short hoses with the appropriate fittings at 2A/2B and another pair of quick disconnects at 1A/1B to connect to the rear remotes. When using an implement such as the flail that requires all three rear remotes, I would simply disconnect the check valve at the rear remotes, cap the ends and secure the hoses up and out of the way.

Let's see if my approach gets torn to shreds by some members here.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

You do not need a check valve for the top link to stay in position when uncoupled. Simply disconnect the couplers, and the cylinder should be rock solid. It is best to disconnect with the implement on the ground to avoid undue pressure on the couplers. Tie the hose ends up out of the way, and you are all set.

It sounds like you need another set of couplers, maybe a diverter-multiplier.

 

[mcmxi]

You do not need a check valve for the top link to stay in position when uncoupled. Simply disconnect the couplers, and the cylinder should be rock solid. It is best to disconnect with the implement on the ground to avoid undue pressure on the couplers. Tie the hose ends up out of the way, and you are all set.

It sounds like you need another set of couplers, maybe a diverter-multiplier.

I'm not sure if your post is in response to mine above, but I would only disconnect the hydraulic top link If I wanted to remove it from the tractor, either to install the standard top link to free up a pair of rear remotes, or to put it on the shelf when running the folding cutter which connects to the draw bar.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

If your local Princess Auto is like mine, there's a GREAT guy in the hydraulics department that'll grab ALL the necessary hoses and fittings, even MAKE the hose while you wait.