Hydraulic Top Link for Box Blades. Good idea?

[LDowney]

Hey guys. I spent the better part of my day adjusting the top link on my box blade scraper. I always shorten the top link up to use my rippers on the initial passes. Then I let is out some to level the box blade to do my scraping. Finally, I lengthen the top link to smooth out the final grade. It seemed to me I spend most of my days adjusting the top link.

How many of you use a dual acting hydraulic top link? I found some for around $200 on Surplus Center. I already have a diverter valve for additional hydraulic that set empty unless I'm using my snow plow. What are your thoughts and suggestions on using a hydraulic top link?

 

[redmaher]

It will make your life a whole lot easier. Especially your seat time!

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[LDowney]

It will make your life a whole lot easier. Especially your seat time!

Sent from my LG-H901 using Tapatalk

Have you installed one? If so, did you go with the 8" or 11" stroke?

 

[MtnViewRanch]

You need a hydraulic top link for sure. The problem is that most if not ALL of the off the shelf units are the wrong working lengths.

If you don't feel that you ever need to retract further than the 20 7/8" (about 1" longer than what you have) that the unit you are looking at is required, then go for that one.

The other problem with a lot of the off the shelf units is that they typically do not work in all the different pin locations on the tractor without binding, typically in the lower pin location.

So if these restrictions are ok, grab the unit that you are looking at.

Sorry, just noticed that you now have an L4060. Working length should be ok for you, but you will still have the binding problems.

 

[GWD]

If you can get a hydraulic top link set up for $200 or a bit more for hoses then RUN, not walk, to get it done.

You will have to decide the length of the top link based on how the box blade sits relative to your tractor. Too long or too short can cause adjustment problems. Not too long, not too short, but just right (sorry, Goldilocks).

 

[redmaher]

I've never installed one however I used one not sure on the lengths.

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[RCW]

Have you installed one? If so, did you go with the 8" or 11" stroke?

I haven't, but MtnViewRanch has a lot of experience with top-n-tilt installations. Bet he could fix you up with something that WILL work.


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[LDowney]

You need a hydraulic top link for sure. The problem is that most if not ALL of the off the shelf units are the wrong working lengths.

If you don't feel that you ever need to retract further than the 20 7/8" (about 1" longer than what you have) that the unit you are looking at is required, then go for that one.

The other problem with a lot of the off the shelf units is that they typically do not work in all the different pin locations on the tractor without binding, typically in the lower pin location.

So if these restrictions are ok, grab the unit that you are looking at.

Sorry, just noticed that you now have an L4060. Working length should be ok for you, but you will still have the binding problems.

Do you think this one would be better? Closer to the top link specs I have now? This one retracted length is 18 1/8th"

 

[MtnViewRanch]

What seems to work good on your model is a 20 1/4"- 29 1/4" working length. Problem is that I'm the only guy that builds that working length and right now my lead times are out 11-13 weeks.

The one you just listed is to short in my opinion. Not on the retracted side so much, but on the extended end. You really need 28" extension at a minimum.

I think that with your box blade level front-back, your pin-pin measurement is about 25". You need a minimum of 3" of extension from that point.

The other thing that I can provide and typically do for your model is a 2 1/2" dia cylinder with a 1 1/2" dia rod as a cat one link.

To go that big with an off the shelf unit you will have a cat 2 unit.

Top & tilt cylinders for an L4060 are shown. Compare those to what you are considering.

 

[meackerman]

I have one for my B2910. Came with the tractor (bought it used). super handy to have, besides using it to change the angle of the implements during use, I use it to move the implement back and forth during hookup.

 

[bcbull378]

I use the top and tilt with my box blade all the time , it's a real pleasure to use . Once you get one you'll wished you had long ago.

 

[nickelplated5s]

Top & tilt cylinders for an L4060 are shown. Compare those to what you are considering.

If you put a ruler or something in your photo it would help. As posted it doesn't really mean anything.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

If you put a ruler or something in your photo it would help. As posted it doesn't really mean anything.

The picture is to show the quality of the units, not the size. The size is also listed in the post. A tape measure would only distract from the pictures intentions IMO.

 

[LDowney]

UPDATE- Hey guys. Just wanted to provide an update on my hydraulic top link install. I've used it for 2 weekends now with the box blade. I bet it has cut my time by 30% working on driveways. It is so nice being about to adjust the angle of the box blade or shanks on the fly.

I agree with what many of you told me. I do now wish I had added this feature on day 1 of buying this tractor. Well worth it the $300 investment.

 

[nickelplated5s]

What's the benefit of a cylinder with a check valve versus one straight plumbed?

 

[LDowney]

What's the benefit of a cylinder with a check valve versus one straight plumbed?

From what I've been told and researched I've done, the check valve helps lock the cylinder in place. Keeps it from floating. I've used my hydraulic cylinder now for a month. I've had my box blade and bush hogged connected. Where ever I set the cylinder, it never moves or drifts. I'm glad I got one with the check valve.

 

[nickelplated5s]

Thanks. Does one of your valves have 'float'? If so does the float position override the check valve?

 

[LDowney]

Thanks. Does one of your valves have 'float'? If so does the float position override the check valve?

No. I don't have a float valve. I installed a hydraulic diverter a few months ago to operate my snow plow blade. I simply ran two hoses from the rear to the front diverter. That's what I use to control my hydraulic top link with a flip of a switch. Very pleased with the outcome. Plus, I have $250 invested in my diverter and $300 invested in my top link. Best $550 I've ever spent.

 

[nickelplated5s]

So, apparently the check valve is an OSHA requirement for implements as I've just read. I assume that is just for 3 point's since BH's, loaders and such don't have them.

TbyN has a good install page although the gentleman had problems with fittings, 45's & 90's. I would suggest banjo fittings for the cylinder. Cleaner install with any angle you want.

 

[Foggy1111]

The valve with a float position in it would be really nice for a few things......but you need to have a top link (cylinder) WITHOUT the lock built-in.

My primary need for floating the top link is while operating a 3-Point disk. Set the disk down.....push the lever to float......and pull the disk with the lower links as the disk follows the contours of the ground. Want more pressure on the front of the disk?......simply pull the valve to get the rear gangs of the disk elevated slightly and more weight on the front gangs.

I just assembled my hydraulic top link from parts from Agri-supply. still waiting for my tractor delivery (Monday?). I used 3/8" hoses......and need to try this set up to determine if I need flow restriction. Hopefully it's good as is.

At any rate.....my top link is assembled and ready to go. . Under $200 investment. What is not to like?