Hydraulic Leak

[Bud605]

I have a L3540 with loader and backhoe attachments. Was using backhoe this morning to dig stumps out and after moving tractor i noticed a puddle of hydraulic oil and a trail. I looked under the tractor and saw a stream of hydraulic oil coming from under the tractor. I dont know how to describe the place it was coming from the most other than to call it what looks like a drain plug with a rivet in the center that can be pushed in and out. I'm assuming this is a weaphoe for over pressure?

It also had a pretty good drip from the front drive shaft or what looks like it should be the front drove shaft that goes between the engine oil pan, about 6 or so inches to the front of this main leak. That was also hydraulic oil, and hoping that is was just coming from the same source...

I took pictures and hope someone can help me out.
1st and 2nd pics are going to be from under cab facing front of tractor
3rd is going to be same area but 6 or so inches forward on the front driveshaft.
4th is under front axel to rear of tractor on front driveshaft

Thanks in advance!!!

Bud

Edit: Sorry the photos are sideways, they are good untill I upload them and then they rotate.

 

[whitetiger]

Yes, that is a weep hole for any fluid that leaks into the clutch housing.

The most common source of a leak here is from the front axle propeller shaft where it goes through the front of the transmission housing into the clutch housing. You have to separate the tractor to access the seal. While it is separated you will want to also replace the transmission input shaft seals.

It is plausible that the oil could be from the front axle input shaft seal leaking and running through the front propeller shaft shield into the clutch housing. Check your front axle fluid level. You most likely are going to find it full though.

Here is a parts diagram for an HST tractor to give you an idea of the layout.
You did not specify whether you have an HST, GST, HST-3, GST-3, HSTC, HSTC-3 tractor.

# 50 and 60 are the seal and sealing sleeves.

 

[SidecarFlip]

Beat me to it.... I'd say it's almost certain you have a seal leaking and a split is in order.... Dealer time.

 

[Bud605]

Ahh shit! Thanks fellas!

 

[Bud605]

Beat me to it.... I'd say it's almost certain you have a seal leaking and a split is in order.... Dealer time.

Any idea on the time this is going to take, basically the cost.... My local dealer is a new Kubota dealer and am sure this will be the mechanics 1st time doing this. The dealership has been in business longer than Ive been alive, but just picked up Kubota in the last two years or so... New Holland/Heston/Ford/Valley Irrigation/ and now added Kubota....

 

[lugbolt]

If the shop has any seasoned techs, even if they've worked with NH or any other brand before, I think that they'll likely find that splitting a Kubota is easier than some of the NH stuff is. Kubota had some service documentation that addressed this issue in the past; I can't recall whether there was any "help" with the costs of the repair, I just remember some documentation. Have the dealer check the kubotalink service web.

 

[Bud605]

Thanks lugbolt!

 

[Bud605]

Update:

Took it into the dealer, 5-6K just in labor estimate! I stopped by yesterday and it is a seal that failed...

They have checked with "Kudoba" and all the necessary updates/installs were made so they are not going to help...

Im not upset with the tractor/dealer/company, I understand used equiptement is used... Its just my luck...

Cant wait to see final bill... FML lol.

No sense in being pissed noones fault but mine for buying a used tractor...

 

[lugbolt]

$5k labor is on the high side.

I did a few of them last year, total bill around $1800-$2200 depending on the tractor. (labor and tax included).

It's not all that hard; nor is it that time consuming. Assuming it's a ROPS model (not cabin). The removal of cabin takes a little more time. Still not $5,000 though, at least not in my opinion--unless their labor rate is $250/hr.

I had another dealer come in while I was doing one and they wanted to know what in the world I was doing. The tractor was already split, rear implement was off but I leave the loader on (just remove the subframe that runs from front to rear, if possible). I use the loader main/side frames for the jack stands then roll the back half away from the front. Leaving the loader on, the bucket will help level the front of the tractor, makes it slightly easier, IMO. Last one was in October IIRC, MX5100, same deal. Warranty (I know we ain't talking about warranty here but just "listen" anyway) only pays a certain amount of labor time to the tech for doing x job (called flat rate) and if the tech cant accomplish the job in the alotted amount of time, he loses a little money. So, as a tech, you have to learn how to do things in a timely manner, hopefully quicker than flat rate. I hate flat rate. Local JD dealer works on actual time but that, too, can be a boon if a tech is doing, especially, an electrical repair, those can take longer than they need to, leading to a surprise bill for the customer. This kind of stuff is why techs (aka mechanics, grease monkeys, etc) get a bad reputation but such is the life of doing this for a living. Always the bad guy, always too expensive, always too slow, never "right".

 

[Bud605]

$5k labor is on the high side.

I did a few of them last year, total bill around $1800-$2200 depending on the tractor. (labor and tax included).

It's not all that hard; nor is it that time consuming. Assuming it's a ROPS model (not cabin). The removal of cabin takes a little more time. Still not $5,000 though, at least not in my opinion--unless their labor rate is $250/hr.

I had another dealer come in while I was doing one and they wanted to know what in the world I was doing. The tractor was already split, rear implement was off but I leave the loader on (just remove the subframe that runs from front to rear, if possible). I use the loader main/side frames for the jack stands then roll the back half away from the front. Leaving the loader on, the bucket will help level the front of the tractor, makes it slightly easier, IMO. Last one was in October IIRC, MX5100, same deal. Warranty (I know we ain't talking about warranty here but just "listen" anyway) only pays a certain amount of labor time to the tech for doing x job (called flat rate) and if the tech cant accomplish the job in the alotted amount of time, he loses a little money. So, as a tech, you have to learn how to do things in a timely manner, hopefully quicker than flat rate. I hate flat rate. Local JD dealer works on actual time but that, too, can be a boon if a tech is doing, especially, an electrical repair, those can take longer than they need to, leading to a surprise bill for the customer. This kind of stuff is why techs (aka mechanics, grease monkeys, etc) get a bad reputation but such is the life of doing this for a living. Always the bad guy, always too expensive, always too slow, never "right".

It is a cab model, guessing that adds to the cost, hoping they quoted me way high...

 

[dimka1980]

It is a cab model, guessing that adds to the cost, hoping they quoted me way high...

Hi Bud, do you have any updates on the issue?

I have exactly the same issue and getting ready to do it myself, and wanted to ask where that seal was? Was it on the rear side? Part number by any chance for the seal? Anything else needed to be changed/replaced? Appreciate your help. Thanks

 

[imarobot]

Had mine replaced last fall on my L5740 cab tractor.
Got a price from one dealer for about $4000. They said the cab would have to be removed to split the tractor and that they also always change the clutch and throw-out bearing while in there.
Second dealer was $2200. They said they can split the tractor without removing the cab, which saved a lot of labor. And being it's an HSC, the clutch and bearing don't get used much (which it doesn't) and would not be replaced unless necessary.
I decided to go with the second dealer. They called me when the tractor was split so I could see what was being replaced, and also so I could see that the clutch plates were still in very good shape.
All fixed, and no more leak!

 

[dimka1980]

Had mine replaced last fall on my L5740 cab tractor.
Got a price from one dealer for about $4000. They said the cab would have to be removed to split the tractor and that they also always change the clutch and throw-out bearing while in there.
Second dealer was $2200. They said they can split the tractor without removing the cab, which saved a lot of labor. And being it's an HSC, the clutch and bearing don't get used much (which it doesn't) and would not be replaced unless necessary.
I decided to go with the second dealer. They called me when the tractor was split so I could see what was being replaced, and also so I could see that the clutch plates were still in very good shape.
All fixed, and no more leak!

Hi there, did the dealer who did not remove the cabin, replaced the seal on the propeller shaft? And that's why no need to remove the cab?

 

[imarobot]

The propeller shaft seal and some other parts were changed that were updates Kubota made to help prevent another leak.
The WSM mentions to remove the cab as part of the tractor splitting instructions, and that was how the first dealer does it. However, the dealer that did the work told me it isn't really necessary to remove the cab to split the tractor. I saw it apart with the cab still attached, so I guess it can be done!
This was on my L5740 tractor, it may be different for other models.

 

[dimka1980]

The propeller shaft seal and some other parts were changed that were updates Kubota made to help prevent another leak.
The WSM mentions to remove the cab as part of the tractor splitting instructions, and that was how the first dealer does it. However, the dealer that did the work told me it isn't really necessary to remove the cab to split the tractor. I saw it apart with the cab still attached, so I guess it can be done!
This was on my L5740 tractor, it may be different for other models.

I see. Thanks for the feedback. were the cab attached to the back of the tractor when they split it?

 

[imarobot]

Yes, the cab stays attached to the rear of the tractor.
I wish I had taken pictures.