Hydraulic leak - Factory or Dealer to blame?

[RickyBobby]

After only 30 hours, my L3901 developed a leak at the junction block just forward of the hydraulic filter under the right side of the tractor. This is the block that feeds hoses up to the FEL quick connect.
Is that something that the dealer assembled, or was it assembled at the factory?

I ask because, unfortunately, I must pay for a dealer pickup and drop off. And if it's their screwup, they should really foot the bill for that.
Thanks

 

[DustyRusty]

On a new tractor, the dealer should pick up and deliver it back to you, no matter who made the mistake. If the dealer sold the tractor to you, then it is reasonable for them to either send out a technician to repair it on site, or for them to haul it both ways. It isn't like a car, where you can just drive it down to the dealership for the repairs.

 

[orange crusher]

Sounds like you need to find a better dealer. Incidental on who to blame for not doing their job. It's all about the dealer keeping his customer satisfied Just sayin.................................

 

[NCL4701]

I don’t know the specifics of your machine’s issue so if this is inapplicable please accept my apology and ignore this.

I had two hydraulic fittings leak within the first 50 hours. Not entirely shocking on a new machine. All they needed was tightening. Took approximately 2 minutes each time to stop, get a Crescent wrench out of the tiny toolbox, tighten fitting, and return the wrench to the toolbox. It would have taken longer to call the dealer to set up an appointment.

Point being:
1) If it’s leaking at a fitting, maybe consider doing something simple yourself before involving the dealer and all the logistical complexities that involves.
2) If you do involve the dealer as your first option, that seems like an issue for a mobile tech. If they want it in their shop rather than sending a mobile tech that sounds more like a convenience for them as opposed to a scope of work necessity so they should be paying for transport if that’s their requirement.

 

[michigander]

My dealer decorated my B with a couple of stickers that I pay for pickup and delivery even for warranty work. Knock on wood into 3rd year it hasn't needed to go back.

 

[forky]

Yep, at the time of purchase I asked the dealer about warranty work, and was also told it's up to me to get the tractor to the dealer, just like a car dealer. I have no problem with that at all, or could of made it part of the deal.

 

[RCW]

A couple years ago someone quoted the Warranty language regarding transportation for the work. Was pretty clear not included.

That said, some dealers will go above and beyond.

 

[Henro]

After only 30 hours, my L3901 developed a leak at the junction block just forward of the hydraulic filter under the right side of the tractor. This is the block that feeds hoses up to the FEL quick connect.
Is that something that the dealer assembled, or was it assembled at the factory?

I ask because, unfortunately, I must pay for a dealer pickup and drop off. And if it's their screwup, they should really foot the bill for that.
Thanks

I think it’s been pretty standard for decades that you either pay for pick up and return or you deliver your tractor to the dealer yourself for warranty repair. Fortunately in 20 years I’ve never needed to have my tractors go back. (Edit: actually I did, read on)

Reading the thread title...

Hydraulic leak - Factory or Dealer to blame?

...An old saying popped into my mind:

There are three sides to every story: Their side, the other side, and let the truth be known!

Is there any chance you might have hit something to cause the leak to start? I only ask because thinking back I remember I had a problem that I’m sure now, in retrospect, I caused myself.

The plastic driveshaft cover on my front end started rubbing and got a hole in it. I called the dealer and they took it back and repaired it under warranty. When I called, the salesman told me to take a screwdriver and stick it in and pry the plastic away from the driveshaft, which I did. When they looked at it in the shop, they said obviously I caused the damage And it wasn’t a warranty repair.

But I said well the person I talked to told me to stick a screwdriver in and pry it away from the driveshaft and that’s what I did, so that’s why it looks like I caused the problem myself. They repaired it under warranty. I don’t remember if I had to pay transportation for the tractor or not.

Afterwards I started to think that probably I ran over something that actually pushed up on that plastic cover and therefore I caused the damage to myself… Water over the dam at that point though…but let the truth be known!

 

[RickyBobby]

I think it’s been pretty standard for decades that you either pay for pick up and return or you deliver your tractor to the dealer yourself for warranty repair. Fortunately in 20 years I’ve never needed to have my tractors go back. (Edit: actually I did, read on)

Reading the thread title...

Hydraulic leak - Factory or Dealer to blame?

...An old saying popped into my mind:

There are three sides to every story: Their side, the other side, and let the truth be known!

Is there any chance you might have hit something to cause the leak to start? I only ask because thinking back I remember I had a problem that I’m sure now, in retrospect, I caused myself.

The plastic driveshaft cover on my front end started rubbing and got a hole in it. I called the dealer and they took it back and repaired it under warranty. When I called, the salesman told me to take a screwdriver and stick it in and pry the plastic away from the driveshaft, which I did. When they looked at it in the shop, they said obviously I caused the damage And it wasn’t a warranty repair.

But I said well the person I talked to told me to stick a screwdriver in and pry it away from the driveshaft and that’s what I did, so that’s why it looks like I caused the problem myself. They repaired it under warranty. I don’t remember if I had to pay transportation for the tractor or not.

Afterwards I started to think that probably I ran over something that actually pushed up on that plastic cover and therefore I caused the damage to myself… Water over the dam at that point though…but let the truth be known!

Good point, but I doubt it. The paint on that junction block is perfectly in tact.

 

[RickyBobby]

ANSWER: Both. (found the answer in the owner's manual diagrams)
The junction block comes plumbed from the factory with connectors in back.
When adding a FEL, the dealer plumbs hoses into the front side.

Mine is leaking from the back so it seems like the problem occurred at the factory.

 

[kubotafreak]

RickyBobby, Can you wipe off the oil and confirm which fitting it is from? Most are 1/2" jic fittings with 7/8 wrench flats. It is not uncommon they need to be snugged up a bit. Not too much, they seal by a machined flare. If it takes more than 30lbs, the fitting itself may be nicked, Or the orb jic boss o-ring got torn. Either one is easier than the cost it will take you to transport.

 

[RCW]

I had two hydraulic fittings leak within the first 50 hours. Not entirely shocking on a new machine. All they needed was tightening. Took approximately 2 minutes each time to stop, get a Crescent wrench out of the tiny toolbox, tighten fitting, and return the wrench to the toolbox.

Mine is leaking from the back so it seems like the problem occurred at the factory.

I just go back to NCL4701's comment....does it matter Factory or Dealer, if it can be fixed with a quarter turn of a wrench?

Not to be disrespectful at all, but are you totally adverse to trying a fix?

 

[RickyBobby]

RickyBobby, Can you wipe off the oil and confirm which fitting it is from? Most are 1/2" jic fittings with 7/8 wrench flats. It is not uncommon they need to be snugged up a bit. Not too much, they seal by a machined flare. If it takes more than 30lbs, the fitting itself may be nicked, Or the orb jic boss o-ring got torn. Either one is easier than the cost it will take you to transport.

I tried it. They're on very tight.
I might try again with a torque wrench.

 

[RickyBobby]

I just go back to NCL4701's comment....does it matter Factory or Dealer, if it can be fixed with a quarter turn of a wrench?

Not to be disrespectful at all, but are you totally adverse to trying a fix?

I did. They're on very tight. I put a large crescent wrench on them and pushed to the point that I was afraid of breaking something. Might try again with a socket and torque wrench.

I would have no problem taking it apart if it wasn't under warranty. But I hate screwing with things when they're under warranty and risk breaking something.

 

[RCW]

I did. They're on very tight. I put a large crescent wrench on them and pushed to the point that I was afraid of breaking something. Might try again with a socket and torque wrench.

I would have no problem taking it apart if it wasn't under warranty. But I hate screwing with things when they're under warranty and risk breaking something.

I certainly can see that.

I was thinking of a cross-threaded or stripped scenario with a fitting. If you disassemble/reassemble, it could raise the question of did you do it....?

Did you definitely isolate the leak to the hydraulic block? They can be difficult to trace to their origin....

 

[RickyBobby]

I certainly can see that.

I was thinking of a cross-threaded or stripped scenario with a fitting. If you disassemble/reassemble, it could raise the question of did you do it....?

Did you definitely isolate the leak to the hydraulic block? They can be difficult to trace to their origin....

Fairly certain.
...But you guys DID convince me to give it a going over before paying big $$$ to have it transported for warranty repair. I have a few weeks where it's no loss if it's out of commission, so I'm going to take another look.

 

[RickyBobby]

Update: I found the leak. It's on the back side of 060 in this diagram:

It's probably one of the 0-rings (070) which I plan to order.
BUT - - in the meantime,
Does anyone know the torque specs of the 12mm bolts that hold the block on (seen below) ?

Those would be 4 12mm bolts that hold on the distribution block (1st diagram) or a cap if no loader is installed (2nd diagram).
I am currently at 23 ft/lb and they're still spinning, but I don't want to push it and strip them.

Thanks in advance.

 

[kubotafreak]

Might just need to be snugged up. The o rings sometime settle and flatten with age. Ive come across many that just need to be tightened. Ive ordered seals and go to replace them, just to find the fitting settled a little loose.
Kubota uses a good quality oring.

M8 (12mm)is generally 17-20ft lbs

 

[lugbolt]

After only 30 hours, my L3901 developed a leak at the junction block just forward of the hydraulic filter under the right side of the tractor. This is the block that feeds hoses up to the FEL quick connect.
Is that something that the dealer assembled, or was it assembled at the factory?

I ask because, unfortunately, I must pay for a dealer pickup and drop off. And if it's their screwup, they should really foot the bill for that.
Thanks

It ran 30 hours without leaking and it just now started? Did I understand that correctly?

if so, the source of the leak must be identified. Once the source it identified, the cause may be a easier to identify as well. With that being said, Kubota doesn't pay for everything-that's why it's called a limited warranty. If it's something that they did wrong during manufacturing, yes they'll take care of it-however therein lies the issue. It has to be proven 100% that it was a defect of some sort. That means if a lot jumped up in front of a hydraulic pipe and bent the pipe so that it no longer seals, that's not a manufacturing defect. The thought process there sometimes is "well it's defective because it's a bad design". Bad designs are generally not considered defects either.

Yes the transportation is the responsibility of the owner. It even states it clearly in the warranty statement booklets. Some dealers will give a little on this but remember, it costs you X amount of money to haul it to the dealer, it costs the dealer twice that or more. Dealer's gotta pay a guy to drive the truck however many miles out there, and back-twice. That's 4 trips. And commerical vehicle insurance isn't cheap.

 

[TheOldHokie]

After only 30 hours, my L3901 developed a leak at the junction block just forward of the hydraulic filter under the right side of the tractor. This is the block that feeds hoses up to the FEL quick connect.
Is that something that the dealer assembled, or was it assembled at the factory?

I ask because, unfortunately, I must pay for a dealer pickup and drop off. And if it's their screwup, they should really foot the bill for that.
Thanks

Just bought the same tractor and loader. The aluminum hydraulic block is installed by the dealer. From the factory the side of the hydraulic outlet on the tractor is covered with a steel block off plate. Your owners manual has a very clear description of that. The dealer installs the loader which ships separate from the tractor. He removes that plate and installs the aluminum block which comes with the loader package. Fixing a leak there is not warranty - its a shop come back for deflective workmanship by his service people. If the attaching bolts are tight they likely pinched one or more of the o-rings.

Dan