Hydraulic filter replacement

Sniners66

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Recently purchased a used SVL95-2S. Changing all filters and I’ve been told to use only Kubota brand hydraulic filter and hydraulic fluid. Has anyone used any other brand filters (Baldwin/Wix)? Same with fluid, any other brand?
 
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North Idaho Wolfman

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Just don't do it! ;)

Yes there are other filters and fluids to will "work" but it's not worth the risk.
 
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85Hokie

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Recently purchased a used SVL95-2S. Changing all filters and I’ve been told to use only Kubota brand hydraulic filter and hydraulic fluid. Has anyone used any other brand filters (Baldwin/Wix)? Same with fluid, any other brand?
There is nothing wrong with those filter brands - I use them a lot, the real problem you face is with the fluid itself. I would stay with S-UDT2 from Kubota, is it expensive? yeah - but it fits the bill, you get some other brand that says "kubota compatible" and that label means little. I do not think you want a 10K bill to replace the pump in your new to you machine due to "kubota compatible fluid"

Do what NIW said........... don't do it!
 

Sniners66

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Svl95-2s
Aug 13, 2024
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There is nothing wrong with those filter brands - I use them a lot, the real problem you face is with the fluid itself. I would stay with S-UDT2 from Kubota, is it expensive? yeah - but it fits the bill, you get some other brand that says "kubota compatible" and that label means little. I do not think you want a 10K bill to replace the pump in your new to you machine due to "kubota compatible fluid"

Do what NIW said........... don't do it!
I’ve read on a blog that they say to use ISO 46 HD fluid. Is that different from the S-UDT2 fluid you mentioned? The manual recommends Shell brand.
 

jyoutz

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I’ve read on a blog that they say to use ISO 46 HD fluid. Is that different from the S-UDT2 fluid you mentioned? The manual recommends Shell brand.
Why are you opposed to using OEM fluids and filters? OEM is easy to find and we know it’s the correct choice.
 
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fried1765

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Just don't do it! ;)

Yes there are other filters and fluids to will "work" but it's not worth the risk.
I use Baldwin filters, I do not buy into the Kubota filters only story.
I do use Kubota SUDT-2 hydraulic oil.
 
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TheOldHokie

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I’ve read on a blog that they say to use ISO 46 HD fluid. Is that different from the S-UDT2 fluid you mentioned? The manual recommends Shell brand.
It is massively different. ISO xx hydraulic fluid is formulated for use in purely hydraulic systems.

Your tractor is a common sump system where the hydraulic oil is also used for transmission, final drive, and wet brake/clutch lubrication. ISO hydraulic oil lacks the additives needed for those functions and should never be used.

Your tractor REQUIRES a common sump Universal Tractor Transmission Fluid (UTF) like Kubota branded UDT/SUDT2. Use it or a similar product but NEVER ordinary hydraulic oil.

Dan
 
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85Hokie

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I’ve read on a blog that they say to use ISO 46 HD fluid. Is that different from the S-UDT2 fluid you mentioned? The manual recommends Shell brand.
Lets see if this makes sense then .............

IF you have a newer ford truck that has a 10 speed auto tranny ......... would you grab the Chrysler ATF+4 fluid from the shelf?

The inner hydraulics inside the Kubota's require something that Kubota specifies when they farm out the company that makes their oils. OTHER oils may not have those modifiers or lubricates that Kubota requires, thus you will be playing Russian roulette with future problems in your hydraulics.
 
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TheOldHokie

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Lets see if this makes sense then .............

IF you have a newer ford truck that has a 10 speed auto tranny ......... would you grab the Chrysler ATF+4 fluid from the shelf?

The inner hydraulics inside the Kubota's require something that Kubota specifies when they farm out the company that makes their oils. OTHER oils may not have those modifiers or lubricates that Kubota requires, thus you will be playing Russian roulette with future problems in your hydraulics.
Kubota does not specify additives - they specify performance tests the oil must pass and leave the formulation to the blenders that are experts at choosing the base oils and additive chemistry that will produce that performance.

For those that don't follow these things one good thing that came from the "yellow bucket" tractor oil lawsuits was new truth in labeling regulations for tractor transmission fluids. Producers are now required to use specific language about what OEM approvals and performance tests their products actually meet. For example here is what the current product data sheet for Mobil Fluid 424 says.

In the first block Mobil states that Mobil Fluid 424 has been tested against and passed the three listed OEM specifications and Volvo, and ZF have both formally approved its use as a conforming oil

In the second block Mobil states that Mobil Fluid 424 has been tested against and passed the OEM specified tests for Kubota UDT, John Deere J20C (Hygard) and Caterpillar MTO. The OEMs have not formally certified it as a conforming oil.

The PDS goes on to list a lot of other OEM specifications for which Mobil Fluid has not been formally or fully tested but for which Mobil believes its use is acceptable.

So lets put this "secret sauce" idea to rest. There is no secret recipe for UDT/SUDT2 - just a set of performance tests that many different recipes might pass.

Untitled.png
 
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whitetiger

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The OP is talking about his SVL95-2 tracked skid-steer loader which uses ISO-46HD hydraulic oil, not Super UDT 2 fluid.

The engine air filters are Donaldson/Fleet Guard and are available almost anywhere.

For the fuel and spin-on hydraulic filters, several companies claim to have a replacement, but do yourself a big favor and check the specs.
Some of the suction and return after-market filters fall apart in the hydraulic tank, then can get sucked into the gear pump.
It's your SVL, you can put what you want on it, you are the one who may be picking up a repair tab later.
 
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jyoutz

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Kubota does not specify additives - they specify performance tests the oil must pass and leave the formulation to the blenders that are experts at choosing the base oils and additive chemistry that will produce that performance.

For those that don't follow these things one good thing that came from the "yellow bucket" tractor oil lawsuits was new truth in labeling regulations for tractor transmission fluids. Producers are now required to use specific language about what OEM approvals and performance tests their products actually meet. For example here is what the current product data sheet for Mobil Fluid 424 says.

In the first block Mobil states that Mobil Fluid 424 has been tested against and passed the three listed OEM specifications and Volvo, and ZF have both formally approved its use as a conforming oil

In the second block Mobil states that Mobil Fluid 424 has been tested against and passed the OEM specified tests for Kubota UDT, John Deere J20C (Hygard) and Caterpillar MTO. The OEMs have not formally certified it as a conforming oil.

The PDS goes on to list a lot of other OEM specifications for which Mobil Fluid has not been formally or fully tested but for which Mobil believes its use is acceptable.

So lets put this "secret sauce" idea to rest. There is no secret recipe for UDT/SUDT2 - just a set of performance tests that many different recipes might pass.

View attachment 137708
True, but most people don’t have the qualifications and background that you do to understand all of the fluid attributes and sort them out. Nor do I care to learn about them. I just know that when I do a fluid change I pick up buckets of SUDT at my Kubota dealer and am confident that I have the right stuff.
 
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TheOldHokie

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True, but most people don’t have the qualifications and background that you do to understand all of the fluid attributes and sort them out. Nor do I care to learn about them. I just know that when I do a fluid change I pick up buckets of SUDT at my Kubota dealer and am confident that I have the right stuff.
Absolutely fine and FWIW I just purchased 10 gallons of SUDT2.

Also notice that neither I nor Mobil said MOBIL FLUID 424 meets the SUDT2 specifications.

Dan
 
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fried1765

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Absolutely fine and FWIW I just purchased 10 gallons of SUDT2.

Also notice that neither I nor Mobil said MOBIL FLUID 424 meets the SUDT2 specifications.

Dan
I paid $20 per gallon in 5 gal pails two years ago.
Still sitting unopened.
How much now?
 

Sniners66

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Svl95-2s
Aug 13, 2024
9
1
3
Gadsden
Why are you opposed to using OEM fluids and filters? OEM is easy to find and we know it’s the correct choice.
Never said I was opposed, but I’ve read owners manual and questions arise from what kubota has in there manual. So is Shell the OEM or is Kubota?
 

Sniners66

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Svl95-2s
Aug 13, 2024
9
1
3
Gadsden
It is massively different. ISO xx hydraulic fluid is formulated for use in purely hydraulic systems.

Your tractor is a common sump system where the hydraulic oil is also used for transmission, final drive, and wet brake/clutch lubrication. ISO hydraulic oil lacks the additives needed for those functions and should never be used.

Your tractor REQUIRES a common sump Universal Tractor Transmission Fluid (UTF) like Kubota branded UDT/SUDT2. Use it or a similar product but NEVER ordinary hydraulic oil.

Dan
Not a tractor I’m talking about, this is for a CTL or as most are known as a skid steer. They would be considered purely hydraulic. Is that correct?
 

PaulL

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B2601
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All manufacturers say to only use their filters and fluids. Why wouldn't they?

I generally do use Kubota fluids and filters. Why?
  • My machine (B2601) doesn't use that many filters or that much fluid, and I don't do a lot of hours so it doesn't hit service intervals very often
  • In my part of the world the Kubota filters and fluids are pretty comparable in price to other good quality products. I wouldn't save much money (if any) using third party unless I bought low quality third party stuff
  • I go past my Kubota shop often enough (every couple months) that it's not out of my way to get what I need whilst I'm going past
  • I don't have to do any research or thinking, and I don't have to worry that maybe I got it wrong. They give me the parts that fit and I don't have to get part way through a service and then discover I've bought something that's supposed to be compatible but actually isn't
So, in short, going after market wouldn't save me any money, wouldn't save me any driving, and would require me to spend time working out what parts are compatible and then worrying whether the third party was lying when they said it was compatible and/or selling me sub-specification junk.

If any of those things are different for you, particularly if you're doing a lot of hours on a machine that uses a lot of fluids (an SVL meets that definition), and if you can find a reliable supplier of a product that meets the spec and is a lot cheaper, then you should totally do that. Your machine. But if you're doing a lot of research and taking a bunch of risk to save $50, I personally wouldn't do that.
 
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