hydraulic control lever travels too far, relieves pressure

[timsch]

I gave the L275 its first good workout last night and things went pretty well. One problem that caused me some concern was that when pulling the lever to get the bucket to lower, I noticed it going very slow and then when it got to the ground had no force at all pushing down. I figured out that if I didn't pull the lever all of the way, it went fast enough and had sufficient force to lift the front wheels up, but a bit further than that the pressure would release.

What adjustment is needed to fix this? Thanks.

 

[russell.still.5]

That is what is referred to as float. It’s is built that way by design.


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[hodge]

As mentioned, it is a designed feature. When in float, it does just that- it floats. There is no hydraulic pressure to raise or lower the loader, so it can rise up and down with the grade.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

If you pull the lever sharply it should lock (click) in that position, if to doesn't then it needs the detent rebuilt.

 

[timsch]

I had no idea. Looks like I should get the manual for the loader; I wonder what else I don't know. This is my 1st tractor with a FEL.

Is that for being able to scoop dirt at ground level without gouging when the wheels are on uneven terrain?

 

[MilkyWay]

I had no idea. Looks like I should get the manual for the loader; I wonder what else I don't know. This is my 1st tractor with a FEL.

Is that for being able to scoop dirt at ground level without gouging when the wheels are on uneven terrain?

No, I don't think you want to try and actually dig in float mode/position. It is used equally for back-dragging as you will discover with a little experience in the seat and also for "setting" the bucket height before you start to dig. Once the bucket is dropped and hits the ground, then you set the curl of the bucket, take it OUT of float mode and dig in, in that order. It will all become second-nature quickly once you start to get the feel,,, err, I mean the FEL of it. Setting the bucket curl is the most difficult concept to grasp, for me anyway and is learned as you go. You will also need 4-wheel drive and a TON of weight where ever you can add it if you are going to dig virgin red clay or other dense soil. Watch youtubes; very good, clear and helpful videos imho.
One point that can't be stressed too much. It probably does not apply to a noob, but low and slow is the way to go with a bucket full of heavy. Heavy anything. That is doubly true if the ground is sloped. With a full bucket you will tip over faster than you would ever believe if the bucket is overhead and/or you are going too fast for load and conditions. Be Safe!

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

You can use float to scoop up loose material on a hard surface.
But like others said, not got digging.

 

[timsch]

On another note, the control levers coming off the back of the unit at around 45 degrees seem to be working in the opposite direction than I'd expect. I'm wondering if the hoses have been reversed. For bucket lift, I push the lever forward/up, to drop is backward/down. For bucket curl up, I push the other lever forward/up, to curl down is backward/down. Can someone verify whether this is right?

 

[Tractor Dell]

On another note, the control levers coming off the back of the unit at around 45 degrees seem to be working in the opposite direction than I'd expect. I'm wondering if the hoses have been reversed. For bucket lift, I push the lever forward/up, to drop is backward/down. For bucket curl up, I push the other lever forward/up, to curl down is backward/down. Can someone verify whether this is right?

Here is the normal operation for a loader. Not sure if this applies to your specific loader. You should see a sticker like this somewhere on your loader.

 

[timsch]

Here is the normal operation for a loader. Not sure if this applies to your specific loader. You should see a sticker like this somewhere on your loader.

As old as the loader is now, all of the stickers are weathered beyond recognition. I don't even know what model it is. It has individual levers for lift and curl and not a single one that operates both functions.

 

[D2Cat]

Typically, when you push the lever forward the bucket should lower. As you push the lever "further" forward it should go past a feeling of resistance, and that is your float position. Sound like the hoses on that spool are reversed.

 

[timsch]

Sound like the hoses on that spool are reversed.

Seems that way to me.

 

[shootem604]

I don't believe my L245 has a float position on the 2 lever FEL - is it supposed to? I'd assume it would be similar in age and style and operation to the OP's unit.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I don't believe my L245 has a float position on the 2 lever FEL - is it supposed to? I'd assume it would be similar in age and style and operation to the OP's unit.

It all depends on which control valve it's equipped with.

Look on the opposite end of the spool valve from the levers or joystick, if one spool sticks out farther than the other then most likely there is a float detent, if they are the same length there is not.

Note: Newer valves have both sticking out but the second side is not a detent it's fast dump.

 

[timsch]

It all depends on which control valve it's equipped with.

Look on the opposite end of the spool valve from the levers or joystick, if one spool sticks out farther than the other then most likely there is a float detent, if they are the same length there is not.

Note: Newer valves have both sticking out but the second side is not a detent it's fast dump.

Here's a picture of my control valve assembly.

I have now switched the lines running to each valve so that pulling the levers back/down raises and curls/up the bucket and the opposite when pushing up/forward, which is what I'd expect and what I think is typical. You can see the longer spool in the front of the inside valve. The only oddity now is that to float the bucket, the lever still has to be pulled back, so floating the bucket is the same lever direction as raising it, and that doesn't seem right either, although there doesn't seem much I can do about it. It looks like I have to pick my poison....

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

The reason your having so many issues is someone has changed the valve from the original and have it setup wrong, if you reattach it in a different position the valve would work normally.

If you get a new valve with a joystick you will be a lot happier.

 

[timsch]

The reason your having so many issues is someone has changed the valve from the original and have it setup wrong, if you reattach it in a different position the valve would work normally.

I suspected as much, but couldn't find pictures showing original orientation. While it'd be easy to move it to another position, I haven't figured out what that position would be, unless disassembly and reconfiguration of the valve body is an option.

 

[timsch]

If you get a new valve with a joystick you will be a lot happier.

I don't doubt that. Any recommendations?

p.s. I'm frugal to a fault, as is evidenced by me having this Frankenstein of a tractor after a year of looking around. But hey...the price was pretty good....although I may be looking at a clutch job soon, so the bloom is off. It runs well, doesn't leak or smoke, so I've got that going for me.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Here would be an excellent contender for replacement.

http://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydrau...GPM-Joystick-Loader-Control-Valve-9-12239.axd

 

[timsch]

Thanks, Wolfman. Your help is much appreciated.