Hydraulic angling of a snow blade worth the hassle?

[flyidaho]

I think I know the answer....but was to cheap at the time to opt for this feature on my QUICKATTACH 6' snowblade/light material blade. A long time mover of snow with a Kubota, here at over 5,000' in Idaho, my old 2105 was a fair bit smaller then the new L3301, but it did a great job over the years. When I sold it I kept the 5' PTO rear blower, it's on the new rig. I also had a 5' ProTech snow pusher, with a rubber bottom scraper, for the old 'bota. The type you can just drive up and using the existing FEL pick it up and get to work. Can't drag with it, only push of course. I still have it, and will sell it locally no doubt at some point.

So, blower on rear, blade on front, FEL bucket readily available also. I just plowed with it for the first time, and have pretty much decided I screwed up by not getting the hydraulic angle option. When the blade is straight, you of course get a fair amount of spill over on both ends, at least as opposed to my old snow pusher which had end plates. When angled, it works great, as long as you want a big berm on whatever side you angle to. At first I thought I could plan my snow work without frequent angle changes, just work with the angle I had manually set, that quickly got irritating and impractical! Anyone else go through this? If so, when you got the hydraulic angle setup, it was a big game changer I'm guessing? Did you kick yourself for not getting one to start with?! Besides having to get off and manually change the angle, you only have the option of going from straight to a 45, I found my self wanting to go in , between the two extremeness, which the hyd. would allow, not all or nothing. I don't want to use the FEL bucket for plowing, I am liking the curled and sprung snow blade, I like the protection the springs offer on my gravel/rock driveway, late in the season, I'll use it to move big berms, that build up to high to blow over, but the blade will be my main tool for 75% of the storms we get, the other 25% will be blown, we get a lot of wind and drift up here.

 

[r40kh]

Plowed for years with a straight blade on my 165 Massey. Bought the M7040 in 2011 and had them plumb power angle to the curl function on the loader valve and the difference is like night and day. I also wanted the ability to curl the blade as it helps to push yourself out if you get stuck so I ran a hose from one of my remotes to do the curl function. I'm liking this set up

 

[prof.fate]

depends what you plow, how you plow.

Normally I plow angled down the road out, then back.

then the parking area..depends on your parking area layout and such how you best do this. And the amount of snow.

Usually I go strait and push 'from teh center out' for lack of a more vivid descritpion, then to back to the road/end of drive and move that snow out of the way.

For my home I moved to snow blower a decade plus ago - love it. Only issue is moving snow from the center of the 50x50 foot parking area - the blower won't throw it that far.

THIS year I've a new challenge..got a backblade..so the main drive will be fine..not sure how to hand the end of teh drive and the parking area.

Yet to snow, well, it snowed before I had it ready.

It's snowing now..wasn't supposed to till tomorrow evening so I may get to find out!

I try to minimize the blade angling - it slows down the whole process. But yea, getting off the tractor to do it REALLY slows the process down. Which at the moment is the position I'll be in.

 

[Stmar]

I went with the manual snow blade, I wanted simple, and I am getting familiar with it. I angle it one notch and angle my back blade the same way offset a bit and it clears a good path. For the parking area I back drag, sometimes I straighten the blade sometimes I don't. My old 8N plow took a major effort and tools to change angles so this is an upgrade for me.

 

[skeets]

I dont have a power angle either,, what I have found out over many years, is to sit quietly and look at what you want to do,, after a deep breath and little prayer,,, then attack it with reckless abandon

No really just plan it out angle the blade go down and come up the other side then back down the center with the blade angled one way or get off move it get back on and go some more. Just planning but some times ya gota get off and back on,,yeah I know but hey what fun would it be other wise
And a Merry Christmas to you all

 

[John Lash]

I got the power angle. I had them install the third function valve mostly for a future grapple. Since I had the third function might as well get the power angle plow as well.

I live on a side hill. Until recently I plowed with a rear blade. It was always angled the same way. To put the snow on the downhill side of the road. Most of the time that's how the new plow will be angled anyway...

That's about half the driveway. The power angle will give me options for the other half.

 

[Redlands]

One way to look at it is do you spend $800 or $1200 dollars for the hydraulics and if not needed you will no doubt get a bit irritated ONE time. On the other hand do you save the money and get irritated every single time for years to come wishing you had the hydraulic angle

 

[Vacula]

I bought a JohnnyPlow angling snowplow for my older BX.
After using little Wheelhorse Tractors for decades with their very heavy snow and dirt plows mounted with a manual angle lever by the seat, you would never go back to having to get off your tractor to change the angle.
Is it laziness? Nope! As we get older, it is imperative that we stay on the seat!
The JohnnyPlow was my cheaper alternative to trying to find a now seemingly vintage mount plus purchasing a new or used Kubota dirt/snowplow.
My FEL will handle the dirt. I needed something to angle just snow.
If you hate getting off the seat.............spend the cash to modify. If you haven't bought a plow but are considering..............spend the extra cash and get the angle plow!

 

[Redlands]

Good point on the safety aspect of having the hydraulic setup. Less chance of getting hurt with all the on and off and up and down from the tractor under bad weather conditions.

 

[flyidaho]

One way to look at it is do you spend $800 or $1200 dollars for the hydraulics and if not needed you will no doubt get a bit irritated ONE time. On the other hand do you save the money and get irritated every single time for years to come wishing you had the hydraulic angle

I think you hit the nail on the head there!

I just got done clearing another 8 to 12" plus deeper drifts, and this time, only my second time out with the new set up, I gave it a little thought first, starting with how I exited the tractor shed. About 3/4's of the way to being finished, I stopped and changed from the angle to straight, that's it, one change. I may have hit on the proper procedure for my particular layout, but at least for now I'll hold off over adding the hydraulics. One factor is, as the winter goes on, I want to see how often I use the FEL bucket, not having hydraulics would make that change over a bit quicker, but then again how long does it take to decouple two quick disconnects, and re hook up them, a few seconds? So not a huge factor. The snow was deep drifted enough in my one parking area, that I blew my way in going backwards, and then going out plowed, so moving snow both directions. That's my main beef, if I find myself backing up "empty"/not moving snow, too often, just because I don't have the right angle on the blade and I'm too lazy to jump out and change it, I'll go hydraulic.

Like most I'm sure, I can't use the blower all the time, as I have windows to consider etc., and if the winds howling the wrong direction I need to throw it, forget about it. I do like the way they built the plow, pulling the pin and moving the blade, from get off to getting back on, is less then a minute, and not awkward at all if I raise it the the proper height. I snow board and ride mountain bikes still, so the physical part of doing this is no big deal for now, I just like doing things efficient and quick as possible. One angle change per session I can live with.

When I get my quote back from my supplier, the price will make my decision a bit easier! One thing, I continue to be real impressed with the L3301's greater power and ability to get things done over my previous smaller tractor, I am real happy I made the upgrade.

 

[Redlands]

Sounds like you got a system worked out to try. Nothing like some practice and experience on actual conditions you are having to deal with. As you point out weather conditions and changes will have some effect. Time will tell

 

[flyidaho]

Quick Attachments got back to me with a quote on the needed items (less couplers, hose, and valve) to convert over to a hydraulic angle setup on my plow: $431.00 delivered. About 100 for the required hose, and $297.00 for something called "3x8 SPEEBALLS", which I assume is the cylinder. Less then I thought, I guess it would take two cylinders, it only takes one double acting cylinder with the correct stroke. I see no mention of a valve.

I'm a long time customer of Surplus Center (www.surpluscenter.com) and I'm thinking.....though I operate my own crane business (just a 30 ton National, but it has 110' of boom and a 44' jib) I have yet to mess with building anything using hydraulics yet, though I build a lot of things. I'm thinking it's not rocket science, and if I measure what I need for the retracted and extended length of the adjustment arm, estimate the forces involved and the required cylinder rod diameter to be more then strong enough, I can build my own. It would be simply replacing the existing arm, with it's telescoping pinned adjustment, with the proper cylinder. We have a good local hyd. hose shop here, they also carry about any fittings I would need. I guess I'm talking myself into doing it myself, as I do most things, what was I thinking?!

Anybody got any suggestions on the required rod diameter to handle the forces involved? I'm thinking around 1 1/4" to 1/ 1/2" would be plenty.

 

[flyidaho]

I couldn't find what I think I needed, the particular combo of stroke and retracted length and I was still unsure of what size rod,, in my Surplus Center catalog, and rather then mess around I just orderd the complete kit from Quick Attachments. i will no doubt pay more then scrounging around, but at least I'll get the right stuff.

Near as I can tell, for a control valve, one of these is what I need:https://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydra...ool-8-GPM-Prince-MB11B5C1-DA-Valve-9-7861.axd, plus the hoses and the fittings for it. Looks like I'll be in this hydraulic conversion about $600.00 to $650.00

 

[westvandude]

I looked at quick attachments and thought the pricing was pretty high for stuff.

Locally on craigslist there are a variety of listings for hydraulic tilt quick attach snow blades. I'm just curious if the hydraulic fittings that come on the hoses are what would fit my L5740 front loader auxiliary fittings? When I bought my tractor a month ago it was actually used for snow duty with a large 3point PTO snow blower. The loader handle has two buttons on the side of the handle grip just below the top and another button on the steel portion of the lever.... I'm still studying the manual! lol

https://vancouver.craigslist.ca/rds/grd/d/skid-steer-dozer-blade-snow/6428796216.html keep in mind this is CDN$ so it's like $1500usd with hydraulics.

I believe the brand of most of these is TMG Industrial. https://tmgindustrial.com/products/5020-snow-blade Chinese stuff I'm assuming. But at the end of the day as long as the blade is relatively thick steel, has a replaceable scrape edge and decent skids on the bottom who cares? Just for my driveway am I going to spend $6000 on a snow plow... heck no. Can buy a TMG plow, some pallet forks, and a 3point roto tiller for that. Occasional use should be fine. If you plow every day maybe the USA-made is better? "made in usa" these days can also be junk so you never know.

 

[flyidaho]

The Quick Attach gear is made for skid steers mostly, and they are manufactured in Minnesota. The blade I have has 4 springs, and is in general heavily built (but not too heavy for my tractor), I'll never wear it out. They are kind of "cute" in that they don't list their prices, you have to contact them and then a sales guy shoots you a quote. Not my preferred way to do it, but they have in stock what you want, USA made, and they ship the next day, and it's built hell for stout.

This was one of those "screw it, I'm tired of messing around, I want a real plow and I want it now", moments. I paid $2200.00 for it, free shipping, as I recall. And got my hands on it 4 or 5 days later.

 

[flyidaho]

OK, now that I have real live use with my hydraulic angle changer versus the manual method, I'll answer my original question, the title of this thread. YES!

We had our biggest storm of the year up here, lots of drifting along 14" of medium weight powder. As I told a neighbor later, it only took me 40 years of living on this mountain to get totally geared up for snow removal! The new L3301, as compared to my earlier 1995 2105, just kicks butt, a lot more powerful then I had expected. The 6' snow blade curls the snow like a plow should, and the recent addition of the angle changer, again like I told my neighbor "kicked my driveways a**."

In years past, with the drifting I had to deal with today, my old smaller tractor and it's snow pusher type blade (no angle adjustment, manual or otherwise) would not have hacked it, so I would have had to blow it clear. The new outfit just romps through it, a real time saver, plus it is easier on the tractor as I'm barely making it grunt, the small one was working hard. Now that I have the hyd angle changer, I'd never go back to manual, big surprise I know to you that also have them!

 

[fruitcakesa]

A local Kubota dealer here made a set up for my L4630 using a quick attach plate and a grafted on 8 foot Fisher power angle plow rig.
Just drop the bucket off, drive up to the plow and clip in.
The tractor had a set of rear remotes that we hooked to with some long hoses.
The up/down curl is controlled with the loader valves and the angle by the rear remotes.
The plow along with a 3pt mount box blade makes this tractor a plowing beast since I can move snow both forward and back.

 

[flyidaho]

I still have the usual FEL functions, up/down, curl/float, now I have one more lever to play with. It's on the QA so real quick to take off and put the usual busket back on a minute or two. That quick attach FEL feature is one of the coolest things about this L3301 as compared to my old tractor.