Next item for the tractor is a hydraulic top link. The M5660 already has a remote for it but had a question about length. If I install Pats quick later do I need to order my top link a little longer? I thank they add 3-4 in. To the lower links. Also read on here a little shorter top link is better than long, usually tilting it up more than down. Wanted to know what y’all think. A few pics of what I’m thinking of getting.
Hyd. Top link?
- Thread starter McCrosky2004
- Start date
I wouldn’t put a CAT1 pats on an M. Maybe you just posted a generic picture, I don’t know.
As for the top length, measure what your factory top link will do, extended and retracted. Add a few inches to compensate for the pats. When I got my top&tilt from FitRite, we ended up with about 5-6” added to the top for the pats.
As for the top length, measure what your factory top link will do, extended and retracted. Add a few inches to compensate for the pats. When I got my top&tilt from FitRite, we ended up with about 5-6” added to the top for the pats.
Thanks for the reply. Good eye, Yes it’s just a picture I took of the net., it will be a class 2. I guess I need to get the Pats first and see how it effects my bottom links length. Then as you suggest adjust my top link length.
Yep. I couldn’t hook up my cutter with the pats installed. Once the top link came in all was good!
The Pat's QH adds 3 3/4" to the draft arm length, cat 1 or cat 2 does not matter.
I normally provide a 20 1/4"- 29 1/4" working length for your make & model.
Add the Pat's QH and I go out to 23 1/4"- 35 1/4".
Find something close and you should be fine. Get a minimum of a 2 1/2" dia cylinder with a 1 1/2" dia rod.
I normally provide a 20 1/4"- 29 1/4" working length for your make & model.
Add the Pat's QH and I go out to 23 1/4"- 35 1/4".
Find something close and you should be fine. Get a minimum of a 2 1/2" dia cylinder with a 1 1/2" dia rod.
Thanks for the measurements, makes me feel better about what I measured which was about the same.
Captain13
Active member
Equipment
M7040 4WD ROPS, ZD28, Woods (84” box blade, 72” harrow, 48” pallet forks)
I put a Cat 2 on my M7040 and had to do some modification for everything to fit. Just be aware that if go with a Cat 2 you might have to do some grinding on the tractor end. However, now that all of that is sorted out, I really like the top link. The only slight issue I’ve had is disconnecting from my box blade. It takes me a couple of tries to position the top link so that there is no pressure on the pin at all. If there is pressure, the pin won’t slide out.
Maybe try turning the tractor off, then move the control lever in both directions will assure you that the pin is loose.
Captain13
Active member
Equipment
M7040 4WD ROPS, ZD28, Woods (84” box blade, 72” harrow, 48” pallet forks)
I have tried that. the top link doesn’t move.Maybe try turning the tractor off, then move the control lever in both directions will assure you that the pin is loose.
But, I forgot to say, the HTL was a great addition and I appreciate your early guidance. The Cat 2 handles the harrow and box blade and makes using them so much easier. It’s also a great addition for the planter. S and cultivator since I no longer have to stop to make leveling adjustments. I live this thing.
At first, I couldn’t figure out how to hold it up when I was moving without an implement. My solution was to braid an eye splice into some 3 strand line and just hang it from the OEM hanger. I slip the eye splice on the cylinder and It rides with no issue at all.
TheOldHokie
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3901/LA525, B7200DT/B1630, G2160/RCK60, G2460/RCK60
Could you be so kind as to post a better picture of how the outlet block is mounted?
Dan
Captain13
Active member
Equipment
M7040 4WD ROPS, ZD28, Woods (84” box blade, 72” harrow, 48” pallet forks)
Thanks. I’m getting it little by little. Just hooked back up the the box this morning. I think I have a plan going forward. I definitely like the top link and the choice I made. I’m leveling off a spot for a chicken coop and run today. It would be killing me if I had to get up and down to change the blade pitch.I wish you luck in figuring it out so that things are easier to work with.
I also love my HTL, and would not be without it for any ground engaging implements. I put my link into "float" when hooking/unhooking. I can even physically slowly move the link in or out as needed when in float. It is also a cat 2 link.
Captain13
Active member
Equipment
M7040 4WD ROPS, ZD28, Woods (84” box blade, 72” harrow, 48” pallet forks)
I had the box on again today. I can’t seem to float the HTL but can now watch the pin as I move the link and can see when it relaxes and I can pull it out. The box doesn’t have a lot of hours on it so the pin hole has no noticeable wear yet so the pin movement was really hard to see.
As far as i know it's relatively rare to have float on the valve controlling a top link, unless it's run by a diverter off the 3pt lift circuit. I think it's worth pursuing for certain people but not most.
I do have undersize pins in a few of my top link locations between my tractors. Not "ideal" but if you think about how well a quick hitch fits, for example, and how nobody has a problem with that.. I don't think it's critical in most non-production (ie all day every day) use cases for a pin to fit very tightly, as long as it's not small enough to bend.
TheOldHokie
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3901/LA525, B7200DT/B1630, G2160/RCK60, G2460/RCK60
Yes it was meant for you. I meant the hydraulic outlet panel on the rear. boxed in white below. Its push/pull outlets and I like the looks of it - OEM??
Dan