How to unload 500# tiller from truck bed with loader?

[murky]

Wasn't sure if this should go in the tractor operating or the implement forum.

I just bought a nearly 500# tiller that the seller loaded into the back of my little Nissan pickup. He used his tractor loader with some chain to drop it in the bed.

I didn't pay close attention to how he had it rigged, but I also wasn't super confident that he had it set up safely. Having the free end of the chain just draped through the grab hook and held only under tension made me nervous.

Does anybody have pictures, video, and/or description of how to safely use chain to secure and lift heavy implements? This must be obvious to everybody else because I can't find anything on Google or from searching these.

I have a maybe 15' long 3/8 chain with grab hooks on the end.

Tractor is a B8200HST.

 

[Eric McCarthy]

Well you have a grab hook on your bucket so thats a start. Hook one end of your chain to your grab hook and take the other end and wrap it around the top link area of your tiller and grab as much metal up high on the top link as you can. You're going to have a ton of excess slack since you have a 15 foot chain. The chain will hold, the top link will hold and the grab hook will hold so you'll be fine.

 

[GWD]

If you don't trust grab hooks then you can just wrap the chain completely around the bucket, then through the top link area of the implement (with a top link pin installed), and lift it out.

You may want to have someone else on the ground to spot the removal of the implement from the truck bed to make sure it doesn't spin and bang around. He/She can just steady the implement as it is lifted.

Oh, and have something heavy on the back of the tractor as a counterweight.

 

[murky]

Thank you for the replies. I know it sounds like a pretty basic question. Funny that I can't find any pictures of explanation of how to use a grab hook. In the past I had always thought of chains as being grabbed from inside a link, not the whole links slipped through a notch.

I'm just still trying to wrap my mind around it. Seems like something I should become familiar with but I don't want to do anything stupid messing around without adult supervision.

Thanks for the suggestion of installing the top link pin. I'm not sure if that would have occured to me. Its funny how much one takes for granted when one is familiar with things.

 

[Kytim]

Looks as though you have a receiver hitch bolted in the top of the bucket as well. you could also utilize it as a second anchor point as well. I would hook close to give you lift height, make slow movements to avoid various other ills like banging around or rapid rear wheel lifting. as noted before add an implement on rear to add counterweight against leverage. should be no problem at all, just keep fingers and hands clear.

 

[murky]

Thanks Kytim, good advice. Good eyes spotting the receiver hitch. I guess those bolts and nuts had to be attached to something

I should have mentioned that I have a 48" rotary cutter on the 3-point hitch so I'm assuming that should be enough ballast.

 

[murky]

Okay, its off the truck and on my 3-point hitch. When we get a couple days of sun I'll be tilling.

I ran the chain through the upper link support of the tiller and then in the middle of the loader with the chain going through the middle two tube pieces and as taught as I could get it without being under load.

I used a piece of rope on either end with about 6" of slack to keep the tiller from twisting and keep its long axis roughly alighned with my truck bed.

I then lifted the bucket about 18" until the tiller had a few inches of clearance to all parts of the truck bed and then just dropped the tailgate and drove the truck out from under it. Then set the tiller on the driveway. Detached and stowed the rotary cutter and then came back and hooked up the tiller to the hitch where it is now

 

[GWD]

Well done!

Sounds like you figured out some additional tricks all by yourself.

On to tilling - you will find it quite satisfying.

 

[TripleR]

Okay, its off the truck and on my 3-point hitch. When we get a couple days of sun I'll be tilling.

I ran the chain through the upper link support of the tiller and then in the middle of the loader with the chain going through the middle two tube pieces and as taught as I could get it without being under load.

I used a piece of rope on either end with about 6" of slack to keep the tiller from twisting and keep its long axis roughly alighned with my truck bed.

I then lifted the bucket about 18" until the tiller had a few inches of clearance to all parts of the truck bed and then just dropped the tailgate and drove the truck out from under it. Then set the tiller on the driveway. Detached and stowed the rotary cutter and then came back and hooked up the tiller to the hitch where it is now

Can't think of a better way; driving out from under something is often a really good idea with a smaller tractor especially. No use of taking the chance of dropping it on your truck, tipping over etc; well done.

Things "come naturally" to many of us after doing it wrong once or twice.

 

[Kytim]

Of course I guess we could have done this the really quick way, Dynamite!!!!

Glad it worked out for you, safely.

 

[fuzzydawg]

I used a piece of rope on either end with about 6" of slack to keep the tiller from twisting and keep its long axis roughly alighned with my truck bed.

Dang - good idea! I wouldn't have thought of that until AFTER I banged the heck out of my truck. Guess this ol' dawg just learned a new trick .

Well done.

 

[Stubbyie]

You mention having a 15-ft chain. Surprised that with a loader you haven't experienced having 'too much' chain before now.

Make a snatch-hook: get two known-brand quality grab hooks to fit your chain size; one hook has a 'female' twin-hole yoke or clevis, the other hook has a 'male' single eye; insert the male between the ears of the female hook yoke; bolt the two hooks together using a Grade-8 bolt sized to fit the holes in the ends of the hooks; peen or tackweld the nut. Hooks should swivel. You can orient the hooks facing same direction or opposite each other.

Now you can take up the slack in your chain safely.

 

[GWD]

You mention having a 15-ft chain. Surprised that with a loader you haven't experienced having 'too much' chain before now.

Make a snatch-hook: get two known-brand quality grab hooks to fit your chain size; one hook has a 'female' twin-hole yoke or clevis, the other hook has a 'male' single eye; insert the male between the ears of the female hook yoke; bolt the two hooks together using a Grade-8 bolt sized to fit the holes in the ends of the hooks; peen or tackweld the nut. Hooks should swivel. You can orient the hooks facing same direction or opposite each other.

Now you can take up the slack in your chain safely.

A photo of what you described would help. Thanks.

 

[Stubbyie]

Snatch Hook Assembly Visual wrt How to unload 500# tiller from truck bed with loader?

Yeah, I reread what I wrote and discovered it went sideways.

SEE THE ATTACHED PDF FILE FOR BETTER VISUAL DESCRIPTION.

See the uploaded file courtesy of Crosby Group.

The idea is to somehow link two hooks together 'end-to-end'--mix and match as needed. Handy anytime chain is used.

If using bolts, use only marked Gr-8 or better, as large diameter as will fit. Stay away from those cheap links that have the screw-together end: scary.

I've seen a couple links of chain between two hooks, two hooks rotating about a single bolt, two hooks linked together by a clevis, pear links, spreader plates with banjos cut into them. Limited only by imagination and whatever you have handy.

I tend to use brand names figuring I've got a better shot at surviving any unexpected experience.

Grainger, MSC, McMaster, any good rigging shop, Lowes, HD, WholeSale Tool, HF, Northern, local hardware, any should have enough selection you can pick and choose.

Good luck building a snatch hook assembly. Be safe.

 

[GWD]

Ahhh...got it now. Thanks.

Used to temporarily shorten chain like a mini, non-tightening load binder.