How to check if remote is bleeding down

[yellowglide]

I have a L2501, FEL, and a dealer installed Ton-n-tilt. I’ve been tolerating an issue with the tilt cylinder will extend about 1/2” in about 15 min with the tractor running. I’ve been hitting the lift function every so often to bring the 3 point back to level.

based on posts I could find, I’ve checked the cylender and have no leaks on the cylinder or line connections. Checked hoses to the remote and no leaks. Based on the information in the posts I’m thinking it’s a remote.

Thanks for any suggestions for determining if it is a remote before I just start swapping parts.

 

[TheOldHokie]

I have a L2501, FEL, and a dealer installed Ton-n-tilt. I’ve been tolerating an issue with the tilt cylinder will extend about 1/2” in about 15 min with the tractor running. I’ve been hitting the lift function every so often to bring the 3 point back to level. based on posts I could find, I’ve checked the cylender and have no leaks on the cylinder or line connections. Checked hoses to the remote and no leaks. Based on the information in the posts I’m thinking it’s a remote.

Thanks for any suggestions for determining if it is a remote before I just start swapping parts.

It does not matter if the tractor is running or not. With the remote valve in neutral the cylinder is held by

1) the seals in the cylinder
2) the spool in the valve.

You can eliminate the cylinder by putting an inexpensive ball valve on the rod end hose connection to the cylinder. With the valve open and a raised load on the 3pt retract the cylinder then close the valve.

DO NOT TRY TO OPERATE THE CYLINDER WITH THE VALVE CLOSED.

Now observe the cylinder.

If it holds with the ball valve closed the spool in the remote valve is leaking.

If it drifts with the ball valve closed the seal in the cylinder is leaking.

If it drifts with ball valve closed but the rate of drift slows down both are leaking.

My bet is the spool in the remote is the problem. The cure for that is to install a pilot operated check valve on the cylinder but that will defeat the float function in the valve if you puechased that option. Alternatively you can just use the ball valve to manually lock the cylinder but you must remember to unlock it every time you want to adjust the cylinder.

Dan

 

[yellowglide]

It does not matter if the tractor is running or not. With the remote valve in neutral the cylinder is held by

1) the seals in the cylinder
2) the spool in the valve.

You can eliminate the cylinder by putting an inexpensive ball valve on the rod end hose connection to the cylinder. With the valve open and a raised load on the 3pt retract the cylinder then close the valve.

DO NOT TRY TO OPERATE THE CYLINDER WITH THE VALVE CLOSED.

Now observe the cylinder.

If it holds with the ball valve closed the spool in the remote valve is leaking.

If it drifts with the ball valve closed the seal in the cylinder is leaking.

If it drifts with ball valve closed but the rate of drift slows down both are leaking.

My bet is the spool in the remote is the problem. The cure for that is to install a pilot operated check valve on the cylinder but that will defeat the float function in the valve if you puechased that option. Alternatively you can just use the ball valve to manually lock the cylinder but you must remember to unlock it every time you want to adjust the cylinder.

Dan

Thanks Dan, appreciate the response. I’ll check it out this weekend.

 

[yellowglide]

Thanks Dan, appreciate the response. I’ll be checking things out this weekend.