How Much Rear Weight on B2620 with Loader???

[zbhover]

Good Morning Everyone, I just got the Loader for my B2620 and am wondering how much weight I want/need for a rear 3 point counter weight?

I don't want to fill the tires as I mow with the tractor more often than not and I don't really want the extra weight when I mowing, etc.


I have plenty of scrap steel at work so I can make a nice compact sized 3 point counter weight, I just need to know how heavy to make it.



Thanks Guys!

 

[OldeEnglish]

I believe a lot of people on here would agree that you should fill your tires with the most weight possible to start with. It will actually give you better traction for mowing and filling the tires will take all of the bounce out of the machine. I've never experienced that until I ran my little tractor with a lot of weight on the 3pt. I actually hated it because my back can't take all of that bouncing. I put some fresh tires on it, filled with calcium, and now I have 0 bounce and 100% more traction.

We mow 7 acres with a 2910 and it has always had weight in the tires. Our ground tends to stay wet for the first part of summer and we sometimes get ruts, but hardly noticeable. The next time we ride the tires in a different spot and end up smoothing them right out. If we have something heavy to lift, we throw the backhoe on it. With just the weight in the tires, it was able to lift my 4' snowblower out of the back of a truck without a problem....

For 3 pt weight....find an attachment that suits your needs and is heavy. Dead weight doesn't earn its keep like it should

 

[mickeyd]

I normally have 600 lbs. on the 3pt hitch and another 600 lbs. in the rear tires and there have been times when I couldn't carry a full bucket load as it was too heavy.

 

[Piker]

Just bought a 2012 B2320 last week. 12 of these were traded in by a Xmas tree farm (used for mowing/spraying & replaced every 2 years), serviced by the dealer & brand new LA304 loaders installed. Not it's main intended use but I used it the day after purchase to knock down snow plow banks at the end of our driveway, widen the driveway & create some space out back to park the tractor (and my old faithful 1980 B7100/implements when I can get it moved from the cottage to sell it). With a full bucket of packed snow/ice I had a lot of wheel spin (Ag tires)so spent part of last Friday welding up a 3 point rear ballast from a 26" length of heavy gauge railroad track. I wanted something as compact as possible as I don't have much room to maneuver (punched lattice on back deck in 3 spots!)& if it works out may be leaving it on most of the time - main reason for 2" receiver welded to the bottom of the track. Not sure what it weighs but took 2 of us to mount it. Just got blessed with 53 cm (21") yesterday & last night so will get to try it out shortly. Probably not heavy enough for gravel/soil work but already figgered how to make a bracket to add my 2 B7100 suitcase weights.

 

[85Hokie]

Good Morning Everyone, I just got the Loader for my B2620 and am wondering how much weight I want/need for a rear 3 point counter weight?

I don't want to fill the tires as I mow with the tractor more often than not and I don't really want the extra weight when I mowing, etc.


I have plenty of scrap steel at work so I can make a nice compact sized 3 point counter weight, I just need to know how heavy to make it.



Thanks Guys!

Having a backhoe on my BX and loaded tires since day one - I cannot really tell what it would be like without them there. I have placed the front bucket nose down and lifted the rear off the ground a wee bit with them in place

In your situation - I would still load the tires, the weight on the on those tires should not make the tracks deeper in the yard while mowing, but add a lot of stability for other things you will do.

But to answer your question - I would build out of your scrap steel a box and fill it with sand/gravel or concrete that will tip the scales between 600lb and 800lbs.
If you use sand/gravel, you can adjust the weight until you are where you need/want to be.

You will be able to do more work with it than without. By placing a low center of gravity - you will be safer to boot!

 

[skeets]

I think you will find that the loaded tires will pose not problem while mowing, every small tractor we had even the lawn tractors had filled tires. And never had a problem tearing up the grass

 

[BAP]

I have a B2920 with LA364 loader, 60"mid mower that I use to plow snow and mow lawn. I have the rear tires loaded and have a LandPride 5ft rear blade on back that has an extra 110lbs of steel added for more weight. Depending on your land, the added weight of fluid in the tires will make the tractor more stable on hills when mowing because it is adding weight down low, plus help with loader use. I would add at least 300lbs of rear weight to the 3pt hitch if you also load the tires, and if you don't load tires then go 500-600 lbs.

 

[Piker]

Spent over 3 hrs clearing driveway, more to do tomorrow. 2 big storms since I bought the tractor & I have no more room to push/pile snow! Back to my snowblower.
Rear counterweight seemed to work well. Never had a loader before so not sure what to really expect. Happy with the way it worked today.

 

[Corney]

Was watching the news last night and you Easterners are really getting it! I had the pleasure to visit NB and NS last fall for work. The folks I met there said that they can have nasty winters. Now I believe them!

 

[D2Cat]

Piker, if you want to add more weight to your fabricated piece, you could add another RR iron under the 2" receiver. Just weld it on the ends with a strap across both RR irons, and at the receiver. Then you'll have more weight, lower, still compact.

You could fab a upside down "V" at frame so you could back up and set you weights on it when you wanted to free up you 3pt.

 

[Sammy3700]

I have a L3700SU and the rears only have air in them. When I use the loader I have the box blade on and have 700lbs of tractor weights spread across it so guessing 1000lbs total and it does great. With loader off you can pick the front wheels off the ground by hand. I like this because it removes some weight from the front end which should reduce wear on the front axle and loaded tires do not provide counter weight just ballast. I also do a lot of mowing without the loader on. My dad just bought a L3800 (with 17hrs) and the rears were all ready loaded so we will see how we like it before I take the water out.

 

[zbhover]

Well I decided to go with added weight to my rear blade since it was free to do vs paying to have the tires filled.

We had some scrap 5" square tubing at work that I welded end caps on and filled with steel shot. This added 280lbs to the rear blade which is just shy of 240lbs making about 520lbs of rear counter weight.

To try it out I just clamped the weights to the gussets on the rear blade, I'll eventually make some boxes for them to sit in out of 2" angle or something like that.

I'm real happy with the way it feels with the extra weight on the back end. I did some light dirt work with just the rear blade without the weights and I could tell I needed more weight. With the extra 280lbs it seems perfect.

I also got a piranha tooth bar for the loader and I widened our driveway by digging out a section of the hill and re grading on the one side, and taking some dirt out of the other side so it wouldn't be high. I then got 15 tons of 3-4" crushed concrete and put down in these new sections of the drive.

Everything worked great, and boy did that piranha tooth bar make a worlds of difference digging!

Here are a couple pics after putting about 8 hours on over the week widening the drive and spreading the rock, and the pile of dirt I dug out that I'll be putting around the foundation when the yard dries up a bit.

After I get the boxes made up and welded on for the rear weights I'll get everything painted Kubota Orange

 

[BadDog]

Looks to me like hauling around that big blade back there would be a real pain real quick. Particularly the first time you just barely slip past something hand have to turn away (or not) and hang an end. I haven't done it yet, but I'm still planning on filling my rear tires. Then you have it regardless of what rear implement you mount. I also seem to have a problem with insufficient weight in many of my implements. So I take my 2" thick 50T press plates at near 100 lbs each and clamp them to the implement. This is particularly important for my box blade.

Today I was using my "almost to big for my B2150" Ford Auger. It would get down about 10" and just stop. And it has bolt on rock teeth as well as a 4" central spiral point, still just sits there. I can see no way to effectively add weights without significant modification I just didn't have time for. Don't tell anyone, but I stepped up on the lower arms and added my 200 lbs, which worked well and got through the ~1' layer of hard pack caliche that is under my top soil giving me a series of ~5' deep 12" holes. Before I use it again, I hope to find time to build an under sling/shelf for my plates, being that close to the drive shaft isn't a good idea.

 

[skeets]

Somebody and I don't remember who used so old barbell weights off a 3pt hitch he made I think. Worked well enough for his use. Just remember even though you have a lot of weight back there the farther back ( away from the wheels) the more it will effect how the weight is distrubited

 

[Diydave]

Betcha it will be real fun to hook up, too...