How long can I safely idle with radiator removed?

[dchimirev]

Hi. I'm just trying to get some options on how long I can safely idle the tractor with the radiator removed. I'm working on my L245 (80's 3 cylinder) and I need to do some repairs which require the engine to be running and the radiator removed for clearance. Ambient temperature is around 60 degrees. I figure if I run the machine for 5 minutes and then let it cool all the way down before running it again, I should be fine. What do ya'll think, what's a safe number.

If anyone is curious here's what I'm doing. the splines on my front "PTO" shaft are jacked (this drives the external hyro pump) I want to turn down the shaft to 7/8" and put a love joy coupling on it. I want to use an angle grinder with a flap disk while the motor is running (kind of like a lathe). I need the radiator out of the way to fit the angle grinder, but I need the engine on to turn the crank.

 

[Dave_eng]

I would be more inclined to provide cooling for the engine with a garden hose than to run it dry.

It just seems like too big a risk for me.

Dave

 

[N3BP]

That's a tough call. A diesel runs super super lean at idle which helps. But your cylinder head might warp. I second the garden hose. Or if you can couple the input and output hoses together like the demo derby guys do. I think no coolant at all is too risky.

 

[JeffL]

I would not run a dry engine more than 30 seconds. Just because the outside is not hot does not mean the inside is not. The coolant is what transfers the heat from the inside to the outside. Good chance of cracking a head or scuffing a piston. At least connect the outlet to the inlet and filled with coolant as suggested. This will most likely get you 5 minutes and removes the risks.

 

[SDT]

Hi. I'm just trying to get some options on how long I can safely idle the tractor with the radiator removed. I'm working on my L245 (80's 3 cylinder) and I need to do some repairs which require the engine to be running and the radiator removed for clearance. Ambient temperature is around 60 degrees. I figure if I run the machine for 5 minutes and then let it cool all the way down before running it again, I should be fine. What do ya'll think, what's a safe number.

If anyone is curious here's what I'm doing. the splines on my front "PTO" shaft are jacked (this drives the external hyro pump) I want to turn down the shaft to 7/8" and put a love joy coupling on it. I want to use an angle grinder with a flap disk while the motor is running (kind of like a lathe). I need the radiator out of the way to fit the angle grinder, but I need the engine on to turn the crank.

I certainly would not run it more than a few seconds without coolant.

SDT

 

[Donystoy]

If you are trying to turn down the shaft with an angle grinder you will regret it afterwards. I would try to make any alterations with the coupling first like making the coupling match the existing shaft.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

Pull the shaft out, take to machinest, slide into lathe, turn down.
might take 1/2hr and $50. BTDTX2
a LOT cheaper and better than your method, especially when the engine handgrenades...

 

[GeoHorn]

Pull the shaft out, take to machinest, slide into lathe, turn down.
might take 1/2hr and $50. BTDTX2
a LOT cheaper and better than your method, especially when the engine handgrenades...

AND THIS IS THE SAFE WAY TO DO IT!

Don’t become another stoopid statistic thinking it’s OK to work around a spinning PTO.

 

[dchimirev]

Thanks for all the info. I bet you guys saved me a lot of trouble. I didn't realize running with out coolant was so critical. Much appreciated.

(P.S. removing the shaft to work on it is a bit problematic as the "pto" shaft is just the extension of the crank, its one piece)

 

[Pau7220]

Everything here makes it sound like a penny wise/dollar foolish situation. Risking personal injury or engine damage.... I think your question has been answered many times. Do it properly without risk!!

 

[Donystoy]

Thanks for all the info. I bet you guys saved me a lot of trouble. I didn't realize running with out coolant was so critical. Much appreciated.

(P.S. removing the shaft to work on it is a bit problematic as the "pto" shaft is just the extension of the crank, its one piece)

Wondering how you were going to be able to remove the shaft. I would just take what ever coupling is the most suitable and have it turned to the correct size to match the shaft.

 

[007kubotaguy]

Hello
Have you considered Plumbing your hydraulic's in to the tractor hydraulics. If so I could Supply you with the block 2 bolt on to your tractor and do that. Lance

 

[BigG]

What caused the damage? Has that issue been corrected? Something needs to be done to correct the problem or the new coupler will be damage also.

 

[whitetiger]

Hi. I'm just trying to get some options on how long I can safely idle the tractor with the radiator removed. I'm working on my L245 (80's 3 cylinder) and I need to do some repairs which require the engine to be running and the radiator removed for clearance. Ambient temperature is around 60 degrees. I figure if I run the machine for 5 minutes and then let it cool all the way down before running it again, I should be fine. What do ya'll think, what's a safe number.

If anyone is curious here's what I'm doing. the splines on my front "PTO" shaft are jacked (this drives the external hyro pump) I want to turn down the shaft to 7/8" and put a love joy coupling on it. I want to use an angle grinder with a flap disk while the motor is running (kind of like a lathe). I need the radiator out of the way to fit the angle grinder, but I need the engine on to turn the crank.

How are you planning to keep the Love-Joy coupler from spinning on the ground smooth surface of the crankshaft?

 

[GreensvilleJay]

Donystoy has the best plan.
Machine the Lovejoy ! Most have 2 setscrews 90* apart, so file two 'flats' on the PTO shaft. Use mild Locktite on the setscrews or if the hole is deep enough, use a 2nd setscrew to lock the 1st one in.

 

[dchimirev]

Here is a link to an old thread talking about my exact issue with the shaft.

https://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12943&page=5

The splines on my shaft are pretty jacked, so i'm not sure i can get a good fit with any other type of coupling without grinding them down (I'd love to be proven wrong tho).

I plan on cutting in a keyway with a dermal to connect the Lovejoy.

 

[dchimirev]

Hello
Have you considered Plumbing your hydraulic's in to the tractor hydraulics. If so I could Supply you with the block 2 bolt on to your tractor and do that. Lance

PM sent. Altho that would be a last resort solution as I have a FEL and a Backhoe on the machine and I'm afraid the internal hydraulics will not keep up.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Look at the front pulley, is there three bolt holes?

If there is then there is an adapter with a larger set of splines that will fit over the crank and make that connection much better.

The other much better option is to make a never style flex coupling like a love joy on a plate that will just bolt directly to the pulley.

If you have the pulley without the holes in it, Lance (007kubotaguy) might have one.

 

[dchimirev]

If you are trying to turn down the shaft with an angle grinder you will regret it afterwards. I would try to make any alterations with the coupling first like making the coupling match the existing shaft.

Why do you say I will regret it? What I'm I missing?

 

[dchimirev]

Look at the front pulley, is there three bolt holes?

If there is then there is an adapter with a larger set of splines that will fit over the crank and make that connection much better.

The other much better option is to make a never style flex coupling like a love joy on a plate that will just bolt directly to the pulley.

If you have the pulley without the holes in it, Lance (007kubotaguy) might have one.

It isn't one of the 3 hole ones. Lance does not have one. Thank you for the idea tho.

As of right now Lance is going to get me what I need to tap into the internal hydros. Once that's done, I'll see if the performance drop is significant enough to cause me headaches. I don't use the machine all that often, so I'm hoping the slowdown in cycle time wouldn't effect me that much.

If I do decide to go back to the front mount pump, as of right now I'm leaning towards grinding down the shaft, cutting in a key way and putting in a Lovejoy. I will either use a die grinder and go at it from the side were there is enough room to get the tool on the shaft while the machine is running and the radiator is in place. Or, I will get some longer radiator hoses and relocate the radiator to give me enough room to work on the shaft from the front. Either way, I'm keeping the coolant in the motor while running it.