I have a L2800 and Im new to tractors. I don't like to halfway do something so how do you chain yours down. I have a FEL and the front brush guard. Thought about threading a chain though the guard the back up to tighten. Then strap the rear. But where? So I'm asking the all knowing grand pooba's of the OTT to give me direction in what not to do and how to do it right.
How do you chain down your tractor
- Thread starter lostru
- Start date
I know it's not legal by state laws but I use ratchet straps. If I'm not going far I don't even strap mine down.
The biggest thing that I see is that your entire rig looks clean and safe. Don't give them a reason to pull you over and normally they won't.
The biggest thing that I see is that your entire rig looks clean and safe. Don't give them a reason to pull you over and normally they won't.
Well I dont know what your towing it with but remember if your going any distance,, like the man said if it looks good then the PoPo most times wont look twice.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...=mode+matchallpartial&Dx=mode+matchallpartial
Heres a link to Northern tool, prices are fair and you dont need to go for the 10k straps the 5k will work.. and remember like he said 5 points of contact all 4 corners and the bucket DOWN and secruerd to the trailer
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...=mode+matchallpartial&Dx=mode+matchallpartial
Heres a link to Northern tool, prices are fair and you dont need to go for the 10k straps the 5k will work.. and remember like he said 5 points of contact all 4 corners and the bucket DOWN and secruerd to the trailer
I go around each axle (when possible) with a dedicated chain and ratchet binder.
The backhoe has a large "U" bracket under its frame that is used for the rear tie down point.
Don't use the brush guard as it is not nearly sturdy enough.
(And, yes, a red flag is put on the overhanging boom during transport.)
The backhoe has a large "U" bracket under its frame that is used for the rear tie down point.
Don't use the brush guard as it is not nearly sturdy enough.
(And, yes, a red flag is put on the overhanging boom during transport.)
Attachments
Load tie down threads often get contentious, and everybody has their own opinions and views on things. You've gotten some good advice so far. Use chains and/or straps, whatever is easiest to attach correctly and securely. Don't use the brush guard. The drawbar or affiliated structure, the axles, etc are all sturdy and strong enough. I've used the loader frame brackets when nothing else was available.
Here is my baseline: Will the tie-downs I'm using hold the tractor if it were suspended from a crane? Remember that in a hard stop, a vehicle can easily approach 1 g of acceleration. The secured load has to withstand that. If you actually hit someone, the load spike is much higher than that, so some extra capacity is needed to be truly safe.
How the tie-downs are laid out matters, too. I'm going to use GWD as an example, but don't mean to sound like I'm attacking him. When the rear tie-downs are more perpendicular to the load's primary axis, like his, they are drastically weaker and less effective at securing it in that direction. In other words, his tie-downs will do a great job of keeping the machine from moving sideways on his trailer, and a comparatively poor job of keeping it from rolling forward, especially in a crash. A chain running from the back of the trailer to the tractor in a straight line would make that combination much more secure. Don't cross the chains to opposite corners in a X without a central tie down.
Basically, if in doubt, a best-practices guideline may be to put a tie-down at each end of the tractor aligned in each direction you don't want the tractor to go. Having said that, a tie down on each corner of the trailer angled at 45 degrees or so to the load does this if the attachments and tie downs are strong enough.
Make sure you have enough trailer, too. I don't think GWD's load is recklessly heavy, but I think that trailer is overloaded. That TLB must weigh close to 8000 lbs (Maybe more?) and looks to have 3500 lb axles under it. Hopefully both the axles have brakes. The smaller the trailer, the lighter the tie down points will be. A recessed D-ring bolted or screwed to decking, or even welded, isn't strong enough to hold a heavy load in a collision or rough conditions. He does have a big heavy pickup to pull it, but that combination is probably near the maximum rating for even that brawny Tundra. A flat tire or evasive maneuver gets very, very interesting when pulling a load that outweighs the pulling vehicle. Pulling that load with a compact pickup or SUV would be unsafe, especially without trailer brakes.
I have seen some people using tie-downs like on the car hauler trailers that wrap around the tires and ratchet down. Those would work well if you have a consistently sized load, and are faster to use than other types.
I hate to take stands on what other people do, but the tip to make things look ok so one doesn't get a ticket is bad advice. I've had a friend who was killed when another person's unsecured load came off a trailer headed the other way. Your load needs to BE safe, irrespective of what it looks like. People can be killed if a load is improperly secured, and its the hauler's responsibility to ensure that it is.
I'm not a safety nazi, having taken all my PTO guards off, not having ROPS, starting my tractor while not on it, etc. But not tying down a tractor on a trailer and driving on the street is stupidly foolish, and risky to people who have no part or say in putting themselves in that kind of danger. I know you're asking so things ARE safe, and I'm not trying to rant. But the goal of this is to keep everything and everybody safe, not to avoid a ticket. There are many, many loads (especially here on the Southern California freeways) that are dangerous hazards, but people getting away with it doesn't make it less risky.
Spend a couple hundred bucks or so on a good tie down system (chains, straps, etc) and apply a critical eye to your trailer, with respect to tie down points, trailer brakes and controller, weight ratings, and so forth. Then, tie everything down and look at it. Does it seem like it will be safe to you? Would you put your child/grandchild/best friend/dog on it and drive as you would normally? Would you want to tailgate that load on the freeway, or a bumpy road? Would you want that combination closely following you on the freeway or bumpy road?
Good luck, and let us know what you end up doing. Welcome to Orange Tractor Talks!
Here is my baseline: Will the tie-downs I'm using hold the tractor if it were suspended from a crane? Remember that in a hard stop, a vehicle can easily approach 1 g of acceleration. The secured load has to withstand that. If you actually hit someone, the load spike is much higher than that, so some extra capacity is needed to be truly safe.
How the tie-downs are laid out matters, too. I'm going to use GWD as an example, but don't mean to sound like I'm attacking him. When the rear tie-downs are more perpendicular to the load's primary axis, like his, they are drastically weaker and less effective at securing it in that direction. In other words, his tie-downs will do a great job of keeping the machine from moving sideways on his trailer, and a comparatively poor job of keeping it from rolling forward, especially in a crash. A chain running from the back of the trailer to the tractor in a straight line would make that combination much more secure. Don't cross the chains to opposite corners in a X without a central tie down.
Basically, if in doubt, a best-practices guideline may be to put a tie-down at each end of the tractor aligned in each direction you don't want the tractor to go. Having said that, a tie down on each corner of the trailer angled at 45 degrees or so to the load does this if the attachments and tie downs are strong enough.
Make sure you have enough trailer, too. I don't think GWD's load is recklessly heavy, but I think that trailer is overloaded. That TLB must weigh close to 8000 lbs (Maybe more?) and looks to have 3500 lb axles under it. Hopefully both the axles have brakes. The smaller the trailer, the lighter the tie down points will be. A recessed D-ring bolted or screwed to decking, or even welded, isn't strong enough to hold a heavy load in a collision or rough conditions. He does have a big heavy pickup to pull it, but that combination is probably near the maximum rating for even that brawny Tundra. A flat tire or evasive maneuver gets very, very interesting when pulling a load that outweighs the pulling vehicle. Pulling that load with a compact pickup or SUV would be unsafe, especially without trailer brakes.
I have seen some people using tie-downs like on the car hauler trailers that wrap around the tires and ratchet down. Those would work well if you have a consistently sized load, and are faster to use than other types.
I hate to take stands on what other people do, but the tip to make things look ok so one doesn't get a ticket is bad advice. I've had a friend who was killed when another person's unsecured load came off a trailer headed the other way. Your load needs to BE safe, irrespective of what it looks like. People can be killed if a load is improperly secured, and its the hauler's responsibility to ensure that it is.
I'm not a safety nazi, having taken all my PTO guards off, not having ROPS, starting my tractor while not on it, etc. But not tying down a tractor on a trailer and driving on the street is stupidly foolish, and risky to people who have no part or say in putting themselves in that kind of danger. I know you're asking so things ARE safe, and I'm not trying to rant. But the goal of this is to keep everything and everybody safe, not to avoid a ticket. There are many, many loads (especially here on the Southern California freeways) that are dangerous hazards, but people getting away with it doesn't make it less risky.
Spend a couple hundred bucks or so on a good tie down system (chains, straps, etc) and apply a critical eye to your trailer, with respect to tie down points, trailer brakes and controller, weight ratings, and so forth. Then, tie everything down and look at it. Does it seem like it will be safe to you? Would you put your child/grandchild/best friend/dog on it and drive as you would normally? Would you want to tailgate that load on the freeway, or a bumpy road? Would you want that combination closely following you on the freeway or bumpy road?
Good luck, and let us know what you end up doing. Welcome to Orange Tractor Talks!
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Well said 284, and I have too agree that load looks over loaded for the trailer and the 1/2 ton truck pulling it .02
I like the idea of a chain directly off of the back of the backhoe to the rear D-ring. Acceleration is not as much of a factor as hard braking would be. Will do that on the next haul. Thanks.
Your evaluation of the trailer/load was spot on. It is "almost" an overload and probably the Big Tex fudge factor is keeping it safer than some cheap trailer. Look at the wheel wells and it obvious that the load is maxed out.
Your evaluation of the trailer/load was spot on. It is "almost" an overload and probably the Big Tex fudge factor is keeping it safer than some cheap trailer. Look at the wheel wells and it obvious that the load is maxed out.
I don't see myself as some omniscient authority in this, and GWD's response is why I love this forum. There are multiple ways to do the same thing that are safe and effective. I have pulled loads that are similarly on the border of doable and safe, and have not towed others. As was pointed out, there are fudge factors, safety margins, and other factors that may be difficult to quantify. Having good equipment that is well maintained by an attentive operator, as GWD is, would be one of those things.
Previous similar thread: http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2305&highlight=transport+kubota
I just picked up my new-to-me B7300 in an enclosed trailer with e-track scattered throughout.
I hooked axle straps around the uprights for the loader and tied those down at about a 45 degree angle forward and to each side with 3" ratchet straps.
I hooked axle straps around each rear axle and went pretty close to straight back from those to points along the back of the trailer floor.
I feel that these were very solid points to attach to, and I have nearly new straps that aren't across any sharp pieces.
I hooked axle straps around the uprights for the loader and tied those down at about a 45 degree angle forward and to each side with 3" ratchet straps.
I hooked axle straps around each rear axle and went pretty close to straight back from those to points along the back of the trailer floor.
I feel that these were very solid points to attach to, and I have nearly new straps that aren't across any sharp pieces.
Great advice. Ill be heading down to get some more chains in the next day or so. I tend to, as my wife puts it, overdo it with the safety stuff. 19 years in the service and Safety School trained in Aviation. I'm using a 2006 F350 LWB 4x4 diesel to pull it around so it can be very forgiving when it comes to loading trailer to pull. Most of the time you don't know anything is there.
Hello all, as was said before these types of threads get opinionated quickly. But, in the changing days of transportation laws it's getting more difficult to get by with "that oughta be good enough" thinking. The general public in Kentucky is mostly judged by commercial practices. Oh and the half ton pickup pulling that load on that type of trailer will earn you a stay overnight in an 8x8 room and a big fine! Plus with that kind of investment it would be a shame to tear it up. An overloaded tire blowing out could roll that trailer. Again here in Ky you need a 1 ton truck with a construction grade trailer(heavy duty tandem) is minimum. It's just a fact many smaller trailer use tire that are not load rated for moving equip. Do people do it? Yep everyday here but not near as often as we used to.
Best thing for anyone is to do a little homework and check out their LOCAL laws to which state they live in and see what their requirements are in order to be legal hauling equipment in your own state. Each state has many different laws and like Tim as stated in his home state of Kentucky doing it wrong will land you in jail and a hefty fine.
Here in Virginia for us to haul a load 4 seperate chain's and binders are required and a 5th chain and binder must be used if it has a boom, such as a backhoe. Those same laws apply if I'm hauling my own toys with my truck and trailer or If I'm in a Peterbilt pulling a lowboy with a bulldozer on the back. Maryland for instance requires ANY truck in their state with a GVW of 5T to register for D.O.T numbers and are required to have those number displayed on the truck at all times.
So you're best bet to CYA is check with your local DMV or DOT and see what they reqiure in your state to safely haul equipment.
Here in Virginia for us to haul a load 4 seperate chain's and binders are required and a 5th chain and binder must be used if it has a boom, such as a backhoe. Those same laws apply if I'm hauling my own toys with my truck and trailer or If I'm in a Peterbilt pulling a lowboy with a bulldozer on the back. Maryland for instance requires ANY truck in their state with a GVW of 5T to register for D.O.T numbers and are required to have those number displayed on the truck at all times.
So you're best bet to CYA is check with your local DMV or DOT and see what they reqiure in your state to safely haul equipment.
Could anyone post some pictures of good points on the tractor to tie to.
I have a dump trailer with 4 D rings in the bed to tie it to.
Do you use axle straps on the tractor to a chain binder then to a chain to the D rings. I want to do this right so bear with me.
Thanks,
CAE
I have a dump trailer with 4 D rings in the bed to tie it to.
Do you use axle straps on the tractor to a chain binder then to a chain to the D rings. I want to do this right so bear with me.
Thanks,
CAE
I don't have any pics of it but I use a big ratchet strap on each side. I go over the loader sub-frame and then around the outside of the tires to the side of the trailer. One end behind the trailer axles and one end to the front. It pulls down and to the side of the tractor. I also lock my P-brake, in low 1st 4wd. I've never had it move with me.
Good fastening points are kind of dependent upon your specific tractor. On the smaller machines, including the B7100, it can be very difficult to get straps or chains around the axle housing, which is normally an excellent spot to use. An excellent alternative for you would be a wheel basket tie down, which wraps the tire and, once set up, are extremely fast to use.
Other good places to fasten are the drawbar or, if your machine has them, the rear loader mount brackets. Depending on what type of attachment point you have, chains or straps may be more or less appropriate/user friendly. The front weight bracket or axle is good for the forward end. I have seen some photographs, I think here, of someone who bolted dedicated D-rings to a bracket up front to use in securing his tractor. I though that was a superb idea.
The types of tie downs used seems to engender a lot of controversy, and may be subject to local legal requirements. I use both chains and straps, and sometimes use come-along type devices for secondary or tertiary load securing. Both chains and ratchet straps have advantages and drawbacks. Chains are secure, resistant to abrasion or sharp corners, and don't jam or weaken in the sun. Straps are light, fast, strong, and have a tiny bit of "give" in them that helps keep them secure.
I try to minimize the number of junctions in tie downs whenever possible. So, given a choice of wrapping a chain and fastening a ratchet to that, or using the ratchet directly, I fasten directly, assuming there aren't other mitigating factors. That is one reason I don't automatically advocate for chains with binders, because there are more points to come loose. (Sometimes chains with binders are the best choice, though: There are few absolutes, in my view.)
On a Ford I have, the best tie off point for the front is the loader bracket, and I need to wrap something around it. For this, chain is a better choice, since it doesn't slice easily as does webbing. Chains are slow adapt, though, and heavy to work with. I like ratchet straps because they are light, extremely strong, and fast. On the rear, I use axle wrapping type tie downs similar to this on each side. They wrap, snap, pull to the D-ring on the trailer, and ratchet snugly.
Chains with ratchet binders are slower. Lever-type breakover binders are fast, if one is skilled and experienced at "eye-balling" the placement, but they are dependent on getting VERY tight to stay locked, and I don't use my 3/8" lever binders on small equipment because they can bend things if I pull them tight enough to stay closed securely. Sometimes with a lever binder the choice is "breaker bar tight" or kind of floppy, and I don't like that.
My preference (and this is only personally, not because I think it is superior or better for anyone but me) is to use chains without binders in the front, and straps in the rear. I pull up a little farther than I want the load to be on the trailer, and attach the chains. I put the ratchet straps on the back, and then tighten one side. (With that said, depending on what implement is on back, I sometimes do this procedure but with chains and binders. With the disk, I cannot avoid running my tie down between the disk blades, and sometimes a strap would touch the blade. A chain with a pad between the blade and chain isn't going to run any risk of being sliced. A strap would.)
The tractor goes into neutral, then I use the other side to roll the machine back so the chains are taut. If necessary, I re-set the first ratchet strap, and tension everything appropriately. The tractor goes into gear, parking brake gets set, etc. Then, usually, I put a strap or cable across the loader (if applicable) and whatever implement is on back. I finish by making a couple hard starts and stops in the driveway or street, and bumping across the driveway lip.
Hazards on, I walk around and check all the tie downs, verify my lights work, and make sure nothing bounced off the trailer (linch pins, work gloves, etc) and then, just for thoroughness' sake, I put either a bungee cord or a motorcycle type tie-down around the pair of straps and the pair of chains. These serve as an additional layer of security, keeping things where they are supposed to be, and if attached to certain spots on the load or trailer, are visible in the mirrors in case something does fall off. As well, they force me to check once more that things are securely attached in the correct place, and that nothing has shifted.
It really doesn't take that long, perhaps 5-7 minutes, to tie things down once a system is established and you know what you're going to do. I spent several hours one afternoon getting things to that point though, including placing rings on the trailer, sizing ratchet straps and attachment points, and so forth. It takes me quite a bit longer the first time with each machine to figure out how and where to tie things.
Other good places to fasten are the drawbar or, if your machine has them, the rear loader mount brackets. Depending on what type of attachment point you have, chains or straps may be more or less appropriate/user friendly. The front weight bracket or axle is good for the forward end. I have seen some photographs, I think here, of someone who bolted dedicated D-rings to a bracket up front to use in securing his tractor. I though that was a superb idea.
The types of tie downs used seems to engender a lot of controversy, and may be subject to local legal requirements. I use both chains and straps, and sometimes use come-along type devices for secondary or tertiary load securing. Both chains and ratchet straps have advantages and drawbacks. Chains are secure, resistant to abrasion or sharp corners, and don't jam or weaken in the sun. Straps are light, fast, strong, and have a tiny bit of "give" in them that helps keep them secure.
I try to minimize the number of junctions in tie downs whenever possible. So, given a choice of wrapping a chain and fastening a ratchet to that, or using the ratchet directly, I fasten directly, assuming there aren't other mitigating factors. That is one reason I don't automatically advocate for chains with binders, because there are more points to come loose. (Sometimes chains with binders are the best choice, though: There are few absolutes, in my view.)
On a Ford I have, the best tie off point for the front is the loader bracket, and I need to wrap something around it. For this, chain is a better choice, since it doesn't slice easily as does webbing. Chains are slow adapt, though, and heavy to work with. I like ratchet straps because they are light, extremely strong, and fast. On the rear, I use axle wrapping type tie downs similar to this on each side. They wrap, snap, pull to the D-ring on the trailer, and ratchet snugly.
Chains with ratchet binders are slower. Lever-type breakover binders are fast, if one is skilled and experienced at "eye-balling" the placement, but they are dependent on getting VERY tight to stay locked, and I don't use my 3/8" lever binders on small equipment because they can bend things if I pull them tight enough to stay closed securely. Sometimes with a lever binder the choice is "breaker bar tight" or kind of floppy, and I don't like that.
My preference (and this is only personally, not because I think it is superior or better for anyone but me) is to use chains without binders in the front, and straps in the rear. I pull up a little farther than I want the load to be on the trailer, and attach the chains. I put the ratchet straps on the back, and then tighten one side. (With that said, depending on what implement is on back, I sometimes do this procedure but with chains and binders. With the disk, I cannot avoid running my tie down between the disk blades, and sometimes a strap would touch the blade. A chain with a pad between the blade and chain isn't going to run any risk of being sliced. A strap would.)
The tractor goes into neutral, then I use the other side to roll the machine back so the chains are taut. If necessary, I re-set the first ratchet strap, and tension everything appropriately. The tractor goes into gear, parking brake gets set, etc. Then, usually, I put a strap or cable across the loader (if applicable) and whatever implement is on back. I finish by making a couple hard starts and stops in the driveway or street, and bumping across the driveway lip.
Hazards on, I walk around and check all the tie downs, verify my lights work, and make sure nothing bounced off the trailer (linch pins, work gloves, etc) and then, just for thoroughness' sake, I put either a bungee cord or a motorcycle type tie-down around the pair of straps and the pair of chains. These serve as an additional layer of security, keeping things where they are supposed to be, and if attached to certain spots on the load or trailer, are visible in the mirrors in case something does fall off. As well, they force me to check once more that things are securely attached in the correct place, and that nothing has shifted.
It really doesn't take that long, perhaps 5-7 minutes, to tie things down once a system is established and you know what you're going to do. I spent several hours one afternoon getting things to that point though, including placing rings on the trailer, sizing ratchet straps and attachment points, and so forth. It takes me quite a bit longer the first time with each machine to figure out how and where to tie things.
Thanks for the replies.
For the past 10 years my wife and I have traveled from the Eastern Slope of the Rockies to the Western Slope where we plan to retire. We have seen many accidents in that time some involving people like us pulling whatever, I'm sure that some of them were self inflicted because of things being incorrectly tied down which lead to the accidents. There are three 11,000 ft+ climbs we go over on our trips, not the place to find out you've got it wrong.
Thanks again for your help and patience, this is an example of how powerful the Internet is.
CAE
For the past 10 years my wife and I have traveled from the Eastern Slope of the Rockies to the Western Slope where we plan to retire. We have seen many accidents in that time some involving people like us pulling whatever, I'm sure that some of them were self inflicted because of things being incorrectly tied down which lead to the accidents. There are three 11,000 ft+ climbs we go over on our trips, not the place to find out you've got it wrong.
Thanks again for your help and patience, this is an example of how powerful the Internet is.
CAE
I'd say without a doubt if you're hill climbing then use chains and binders. You can't go wrong with too much of a good thing. If you plan to traverse the hills quite often with a truck and trailer pulling a tractor make sure you have a trailer with proper brakes. If your truck has a manual transmission what ever gear you climb the hill in is the same gear you come back down the hill in. Dont let the mountains intimadate you but dont let your guard down either.
While no expert I have found that the Federal Motor Carrier Safety Administration's Cargo Securement Rules specify different minimum requirements for loads under 10k and those above. I would think Federal Laws trump state rules and regulations. 