Hot transmission on my L2350DT

[sonofliberty]

Vic,

How hot can the transmission without damaging the tractor? As an aside, I really dislike the visual UDT level indicator--I find it hard to see.

This afternoon, I was tilling my garden and my little tractor got very hot. No indication of overheating but the heat coming off of the transmission was significant. I couldn't keep my hand on it--I think it was 150F or so. How hot should this get.

Thanks.

 

[bruceatlam]

I'll let Vic correct me if I'm wrong here but, I believe that the temperature spec for HST oil is 122 F.

 

[sonofliberty]

Gentlemen,

The coolant is fresh and full. 50/50 water green glycol. The screen is clean as well.

I also ran the tractor with the loader in the up position which would have reduced the volume in the reservoir--this may have exacerbated the problem.

Also on another site, someone said the oil would run at 100F over ambient when operating at 540 RPM continuously.

Thanks for the input.

 

[sonofliberty]

SDV,

What say you?

Thanks.

SOL>

 

[Ob1kubota]

Vic,

How hot can the transmission without damaging the tractor? As an aside, I really dislike the visual UDT level indicator--I find it hard to see.

This afternoon, I was tilling my garden and my little tractor got very hot. No indication of overheating but the heat coming off of the transmission was significant. I couldn't keep my hand on it--I think it was 150F or so. How hot should this get.

Thanks.

Sono... in all sincerity the only way you can measure true temperature of your HST is to shoot the case at the output shaft bearing with a IR heat gun and record the readings before a normal load ( warmed up at least 20 minutes under no load ) and after a heavy load and do the precentage of change of temperatures. Delta 1 - Delta 2 / Delta 1 x 100 for percent of change. This number can then be divided by time in any unit and compared to your fluids
rise for lubricity for protection of metal to metal ( friction scuffing ) protection. If the seal material will stand the heat and the bearings, races & gearshafts can hold up to the annealing process, there are no worries until the case heat start flashing off your hydraulic fluid via a case vent or weak seal. I've played with thermocouples, oil coolers and sump volumes and nothing is a truer temperature than the heat of the iron and it's ability to survive the physical work load produced by your prime mover ( engine torque & HP outout on drive train components under load).

 

[Captjack]

My L235dt got like that this summer, I changed the fluid and it got better. Mine had a fair amount of water in it when i drained it. Not really sure if that had anything to do with it but .....................

I just used the wally world udt fluid

 

[Ob1kubota]

Roger that! water will super heat oil as it mixes and becomes steam as it evaporates out the case breather. Good Point Captain!!!!!! This may be the true problem because water will be mixed under load ( whipped in the oil ) and then try to excape from the heated iron because its not under a closed system pressure in this open centered hydraulic system. This is an often overlooked phenomenom of simple physics. Sono let her set two days chilled cool and crack your case drain plug and see if water come out first, close the plug second you see oil. Top off with a filter change and see what happens.