Thats a poor assessment for reliability, even if quite the testament for how you maintain your equipment.
High Use or Professional Chainsaws
- Thread starter NorthwoodsLife
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Daren Todd
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Equipment
Massey Ferguson 1825E, Kubota Z121S, Box blade, Rotary Cutter
As far as reliability. I figure that was a pretty fair assessment. Nothing like pulling them out and see how they handle a marathon week long cutting frenzy in high 80's to low 90's degree temperatures to see how they hold up. 3 of those saws that couldn't keep up were brand spanking new out of the box.
As far as maintenance goes on my 455. There hasn't been any other then sharpening the chain and replacement of worn out bars and chains. The only thing I've done to the engine was add fuel and oil.
Agreed. Perhaps an accurate 'accounting' of what happened that day. But a rather broad indictment on saw brands and an unfair assessment with respect to reliability IMO.
We don't know the fuel mix for each saw, if any had ever been 'tuned' for altitude and broken in.....etc.
I have 8 different saws of different makes and ALL of them will start easily and run until out of fuel and then start back up. But I keep them well maintained and adjusted for atmospheric conditions.
Lots of folks run a saw too lean. Some newer saws come that way right from the factory in order to comply with ridiculous EPA requirements. They get hot and won't start again later. Average 'Joe' doesn't how to tune a saw *In the wood* and just runs it 'as is'. Carbureted (non smart saws) need to be properly tuned and need a correct fuel mix.
Daren Todd
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Lifetime Member
Equipment
Massey Ferguson 1825E, Kubota Z121S, Box blade, Rotary Cutter
You kind of assessed the situation yourself there. If the saw wont start after it gets hot, straight out of the box.... well that's an issue in my book.
That's not acceptable to spend hard earned money on something and then have it leave you hanging for the rest of the day because it won't start after a tank full of gas?????? That's says a lot about the quality of the equipment right there.
Take your Husky, lean out the carb....run a tank and then see if it will start. The manufacturer can only provide a saw that 'should' start and run acceptably in a 'window' of conditions. They have no control over whether the end user mixed the fuel properly, has fuel that is fresh and not contaminated, etc....You kind of assessed the situation yourself there. If the saw wont start after it gets hot, straight out of the box.... well that's an issue in my book.
That's says a lot about the quality of the equipment right there.
Also, IF you bought a saw from a 'dealer' they should start the saw and tune it for the conditions at hand (altitude and temp) before giving it to the consumer. IF you buy a saw from a Big Box store then you get what you get...and it is YOUR responsibility to tune the saw before use.
Unfortunately most saws (carbs) today have anti-tamper devises over the needle adjustments and the average homeowner/user is clueless as to how to access the adjustment screws or even know what a properly running saw sounds like out of the wood and in. That's not a 'quality' issue that is a tuning issue.
I promise you I can make your Husky hot enough it won't start again for hours afterward.
Again....IF you run a saw too lean it WILL get hot, ALL OF THEM (Stilhl, Husky, other) and restart issues are almost guaranteed.
Last edited:
torch
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B7100HSD, B2789, B2550, B4672, 48" cultivator, homemade FEL and Cab
I just skimmed the 5 pages of responses, so I may have missed it, but a couple of points I didn't see covered:
1. A Stihl homeowner saw is a pro saw compared to the big box offerings. I have an 025 (predecessor to the MS250) that I bought 30 years ago. At the time, the hardware store brands talked of annual maintenance at 25 hours. Stihl considered 25 hours as weekly use.
2. If you plan to do chainsaw milling with an Alaskan mill or similar, you need the next class up of saw compared to bucking. EG: an 60cc saw is more than plenty to buck a 2'-3' diameter hardwood , but to mill that you need a big saw -- 90cc class. The bigger the better. I use a 124cc 084 with a 36" bar and Stihl .404 milling chain and it's working in hardwood. A 60cc saw might do for softwood with a 24" bar.
3. Echo offers the best warranty in the business -- 5 years for homeowner use. But good luck trying to collect on it. There are many horror stories on the internet about Echo blaming the owner (eg: claiming the saw must have been straight-gassed) and refusing to cover repairs. Stihl will extend the consumer warranty to 2 years if you buy some of their oil on the same receipt as the saw, Husqvarna will extend their consumer warranty to 5 years if you buy some of their pre-mix fuel with the saw. Shorter periods, but more likely to stand behind their product if there is a problem down the road.
1. A Stihl homeowner saw is a pro saw compared to the big box offerings. I have an 025 (predecessor to the MS250) that I bought 30 years ago. At the time, the hardware store brands talked of annual maintenance at 25 hours. Stihl considered 25 hours as weekly use.
2. If you plan to do chainsaw milling with an Alaskan mill or similar, you need the next class up of saw compared to bucking. EG: an 60cc saw is more than plenty to buck a 2'-3' diameter hardwood , but to mill that you need a big saw -- 90cc class. The bigger the better. I use a 124cc 084 with a 36" bar and Stihl .404 milling chain and it's working in hardwood. A 60cc saw might do for softwood with a 24" bar.
3. Echo offers the best warranty in the business -- 5 years for homeowner use. But good luck trying to collect on it. There are many horror stories on the internet about Echo blaming the owner (eg: claiming the saw must have been straight-gassed) and refusing to cover repairs. Stihl will extend the consumer warranty to 2 years if you buy some of their oil on the same receipt as the saw, Husqvarna will extend their consumer warranty to 5 years if you buy some of their pre-mix fuel with the saw. Shorter periods, but more likely to stand behind their product if there is a problem down the road.
I can agree with much of what you said save the stihl home owner grade saw is any better then a big box store saw. They make plenty of plastic clam shell junk that works no better then any poulan, craftsman or whatever generic saw on the market. Their only saving grace is you have to buy them from a still dealer and they should get tuned before you buy them.
The only saw I have a problem with is my Stihl MS180C. The only carb adjustment is for idle speed. No anti tampering plugs, just no adjustment for high and low speed. I asked a guy at a Stihl dealer if an adjustable carb was available. He mentioned something about going to jail if he told me.
I also have a MS250 and an old 011 AVT. Every once in a while, the settings need adjustment. Every couple of years, I have to replace the carb on the MS180C.
17 years ago I bought a New Husky 385XP
still runs like a beast. 24" bar
using it today to cut up some firewood.
every tank of gas I blow it off with compressed air and touch up the chain with a file.
great saw.
still runs like a beast. 24" bar
using it today to cut up some firewood.
every tank of gas I blow it off with compressed air and touch up the chain with a file.
great saw.
OP here. I went off of my Stihl brand loyalty and bought an Echo 59.8cc CS-590. I wanted something in case my driveway gets blocked by tree fall, but I haven't saved enough for the Stihl 500 fuel injection that I want.
Maybe next year I will get my Stihl 500.
The Echo was just over $400 and came with a free gallon can of premix gas. It's a good saw, had one years ago, and at the price it's good enough for an emergency tree fall.
Cheers
Maybe next year I will get my Stihl 500.
The Echo was just over $400 and came with a free gallon can of premix gas. It's a good saw, had one years ago, and at the price it's good enough for an emergency tree fall.
Cheers
That echo (previously the Timberwolf) is just fine. Keep a sharp chain on it and it will serve you well.
Also, service and parts for it are available just about anywhere.
Good choice IMO.
We have a CS-I think 400 at work. I was super impressed with the serviceability of that thing. Magnesium case and removable cylinder sold me. If the 590 is anything like it, you will be pleased.
RCW
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BX2360, FEL, MMM, BX2750D snowblower. 1953 Minneapolis Moline ZAU
Sounds like you made a good choice. I’ve been intrigued by the Stihl 400 and 500 also, but they’re a lot of $$ for for me to justify as an occasional use saw.
I run husqvarna saws for my main use saws and I also have a ms 180 mounted full time on the side by side and one on my quad. I’ve never had carb issues with either of my ms180 saws and both are in the ten plus years old I’d say. Always start and run great but they are what they are. 16 inch saws. I have a husqvarna rancher 460 with an 18 inch bar for my go to saw and a husqvarna 365 for when I need a bit more power. I do around 40 face cord a year so nothing crazy but enough for me lol.
I had an issue with the rancher 460 when it was about 5 years old. It pushed the spark plug from the threads. I just put a helicoil in it but noticed the hole was a bit off to begin with in the cast. I contacted husqvarna and they said there was a recall on them but only for a year. They were still happy to send me a new jug rings pistons the complete rebuild kit after 5 years. No recipes or bs like that needed. Needless to say that was 7 years ago and the coil is still going strong so no need to rebuild yet. Maybe my kids will need it. Keep the chain sharp and the gas clean. Mine don’t sit long enough to see old gas
I had an issue with the rancher 460 when it was about 5 years old. It pushed the spark plug from the threads. I just put a helicoil in it but noticed the hole was a bit off to begin with in the cast. I contacted husqvarna and they said there was a recall on them but only for a year. They were still happy to send me a new jug rings pistons the complete rebuild kit after 5 years. No recipes or bs like that needed. Needless to say that was 7 years ago and the coil is still going strong so no need to rebuild yet. Maybe my kids will need it. Keep the chain sharp and the gas clean. Mine don’t sit long enough to see old gas
I've had my MS 180 for a few years and this past year it started leaking out the chain oil. So I replaced a little black tube that I was told is prone to leaking. But it still leaks leaving a puddle of oil.
I suppose that I'll take it to a shop and have them fix it. It's frustrating.
I suppose that I'll take it to a shop and have them fix it. It's frustrating.
Don’t remember if it was from new or not but the 180s do tend to have a good puddle from time to time. I just assumed it was normal. Again they are what they are. I always start with both tanks full so I’ve never worried about it. They are a few years apart in age but get pretty shaken on the toys. I always like to keep something to clean a trail if needed. One lives on this mount I built a few year ago now to switch from side by side to my old Ford 5600. The bigger saws stick up a bit high for my comfort zone on the side by side. I could picture catching a limb. Ouch now I just leave a 180 in its place for Justin. The other is on another atv now but will eventually be mounted to the 7060
I ended up with two 180s cause I wanted one on each machine plus having twin boys I though it would come in handy one day.
Well no suck luck yet lol. Other then not switching it back and forth.
I ended up with two 180s cause I wanted one on each machine plus having twin boys I though it would come in handy one day.
Well no suck luck yet lol. Other then not switching it back and forth.
