Help with wheel bolt/post question

[Lee1]

I have a 3010 Kubota. Please forgive my poor technical terminology in this request. Today as I was returning from plowing out a neighbor I saw my front left tire wobbling. I stopped and saw that 5 of 6 of my nuts holding on the wheel/tire were gone. I was just a short distance from my driveway. I took 2 nuts from the other side tire and put them on as best I could and pulled into my driveway and stopped. I raised the bucket took the tire off that had the lost nuts and could see that the threads on the posts or bolts (I am not sure what to call them) were pretty well stripped. Looking more closely I could see that the posts which hold the wheel and tire passes through a circular plate which has the 6 holes for the posts by about a half inch. The thing is the posts appear to be threaded from end to end. Since each post is threaded its entire length I don't know how to remove them. I don't think they can be re-threaded too well so I guess I would need to replace them but I don't know how to get them off the plate.
Can anyone help?

 

[KennyV]

... The thing is the posts appear to be threaded from end to end. Since each post is threaded its entire length I don't know how to remove them.

The 'studs are pressed into the hub.
You can press them out, or using a heavy hammer drive them out. the last 3/8 inch of each stud is splined or serrated to capture in the hole on the hub.

To re install new studs. You could use a press OR Tap them in the hole and then using the new lug nuts, tighten them up and they will pull into the holes.

You can find metric wheel studs and nuts at most automotive supplies... KennyV

 

[DsBota]

Some of the older B series had the thread in studs. If thats what you have just thread a second nut tight to the first nut on the stud and then back off on the first nut. The stud should come with it.

 

[Lee1]

Dion or anyone else,

It is threaded all the way through. I get the idea about using two nuts back to back. However, because the the threads on some of the posts are badly stripped I may not be able to fully put on two nuts. If this is the case - what do I do then?

thanks!

 

[DsBota]

If it was me I would heat them up with a propane torch and lightly tap them with a hammer to free them up then see if you can get a set of vise grips on them and back them out. Might have to grind them flush with the hub, drill a hole and use a extractor bit. In a pinch and you can't get a extractor I find a torxs bit slightly larger then the hole works good. Hope you get them.

 

[KennyV]

How old is this 3010?
If they are threaded in, heat them up to loosen any thread locker and unscrew them...
Look on the back side of the hub... if there is no head (even a round one).. then they just screw out to the wheel side. KennyV

 

[ETRon]

tactics to keep in mind........

if the studs have heads on the backside you'll have to back them out just far enough to be able to cut the head off then screw them out to the outside. Otherwise you'll strip the flange threads ala the messed up stud threads. The heat first is a great help.

To turn the studs I'd try in order vise-grips, a small pipe wrench and should those fail, weld a nut over the stub and use it to turn the stud. Good luck in any case!

Ron

 

[Breeze]

A guy on another forum claimed that heating a frozen threaded stud and melting paraffin wax on it would do the trick. Capillary action sucks the wax into the threaded surfaces and out she comes. A couple of other folks chimed in and confirmed that it worked well. I've never tried it.

I'd check with a dealer for your model tractor and try to discover if the studs are threaded, and if so are they right hand or left hand threads, or pressed in, before I wasted a lot of energy.

If they are threaded, try the paraffin and see if you can get a pipe wrench on the stud to back it out. Your threads are already shot.

Best of luck.

 

[Lee1]

Thanks to all for your help and suggestions. With the help from a relative I was able to remove one of the studs as a test. We used a pipe wrench. We did not have to heat anything to remove it. After taking it off I discovered that there were two slightly different studs used on the L3010's. The only difference is that they are different in length by about 1/4 inch. They are not interchangeable. They are both threaded all the way through with no head. So if you have the same problem know your serial number and that will guide you to the proper stud. I have odered the proper repalcement studs from one of your website advertisers. They were GREAT. I am supposed to have my new studs tomorrow - just before a new snowstorm starts to roll in.

A new, unrelated problem developed which I will be posting about separately.