Help with trailer gate modification

[skywaterz]

I have a Tractor Supply tandem 7000 lbs trailer with a gate that's rated for 1000 lbs. I need some advice on how to modify my gate to be able to load my B2601. Weight of tractor with FEL and tires filled is around 2500 lbs. Here's some pictures of the trailer. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Palmettokat]

Not sure there is a middle hinge but think if you install hinge in line with the tires track and two additional angle iron of about 2 inches by 1/4 inch in that same line with them few inches apart you would be fine. Be sure to have the expanded metal tacked welded to the additional angle iron. If the angle iron used on the tailgate is only 1/8 inch...and the piece the hinges are welded to on the trailer are only 1/8 inch...think you will need to replace or reinforce them.

Is the tailgate long enough that all four tires will be on it a one time? If so would think it would only be with then near the ends and never will have the full weight in the middle.

 

[Yooper]

The simple way is adding two channel irons wide enough to accommodate your tires. Downside is it would add a lot of weight. Formed channel would be lighter but you would have to have these custom made by a fab shop. Simple job and would not be that expensive. Bolt them to the square tube.

Another thing to consider is blocking the rear frame of the trailer so it does not cantilever and lift the back end of the tow vehicle when loading.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

In addition to 'beefing up' the tailgate, add 'loading legs' or whatever they're called that you drop down to ground, pin, THEN load/unload the tractor, THEN raise legs back up..... This keeps the tail of the trailer from going down when tractor is on ramp.
And , of course, since the ramp's a LOT heavier, add some 'spring assists'....your back WILL appreciate them !!

 

[D2Cat]

I'd strongly suggest some feet at the back of the trailer to keep the front from raising when loading the tractor. If you load enough weight on the trailer with out support the front of the trailer can pick up the back of your PU and cause serious out of control damage.

 

[skeets]

Yep with the feet at the back,, cheap trailer jacks work well bolted to the frame,, as for the ramp,, I would think a couple 2x10s laid on the ramp to drive up, would take care of any bending issues you might have. Load and slip them on the trailer when your done,,cheap easy and no welding

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I'm with skeets, since you already have lift assist springs on that gate, adding any weight to it will mess with them, so a couple of good boards, even invest in a couple oak planks to put down over the ramp would be the best choice.

 

[skywaterz]

Thanks everyone! Going to go with a couple 2x10s and a couple trailer jacks at the rear of the trailer to help with loading/unloading. Problem solved, much appreciated.

 

[Lil Foot]

I have a similar trailer, and used two 2x12 doug fir boards for loading. But in my case, it was to lessen the approach angle. The trailer ramp was too steep for my low clearance backhoe.

 

[Palmettokat]

I thought on the planks and know they will work, issue is they can move and often at the worst possible time if just laid there. If they extend into the bed they can be raised and lowered at the wheels drive on and off the part past the tailgate info the bed. Wood also can be very slick when wet.

Saying load wise it will work but be sure to be safe. At least look at a piece of angel iron on the end to keep them from sliding down the tailgate.

As to jacks under the rear end, normally a trailer made to haul such a load has legs on the ramps if needed. Using regular jacks makes sense if not needed often or would be in the way. Before I did this would test to see if there is a need.

 

[Lil Foot]

Valid points. I always loaded in low range at idle, so things happened very slowly. Never had jacks on the old trailer, because there was absolutely no way my B7100 had enough weight to push the rear of the trailer down enough to lift my 4wd crew cab F350 diesel.
The new trailer has tail jacks, and, as a test, I have loaded & unloaded the tractor in the trailer without it being hooked to the truck. Pretty stable with the jacks.

 

[Creature Meadow]

With regards to the rear jacks, I went with a cheap solution. My L4600 picks the rear wheels on my truck up without something under the rear of the trailer.

I place a 5' piece of 6x6 I had laying around under the rear of the trailer. I drilled a hole in the middle of the 6x6 and one in the floor of the trailer at the front. I use a 5/8x12 inch bolt through the 6x6 and the hole in the trailer floor to hold in in place when traveling. No nut on the bottom which would be easy enough to reach but it seems to be long enough that it stays in place. Been doing this for about 3 years. If I were to go a long distance then the nut would ensure it stays in place.

Cost was 0 since I had the materials laying around.

Just some food for thought.

Jay

 

[Tooljunkie]

If you were to check the framework on the ramp, wall thicknes and dimensions of the tubing you will find the gate is under-rated. The gate on my trailer is old and rough, and it has seen more weight than i would care to admit to. Hard to tell dimensions of your existing tubing, but adding a length of similar tubing to the 2 closest to your wheel base would increase the strength significantly. If i build ramps, i use 2 1x2 rectangular tubes on edge instead of 1 2x2. Gives 4 vertical
Walls instead of 2 in the same space.

If you have seen heavy trailers with legs built into the ramps to prevent tipping, that is something i would consider long before adding jacks and 2x8’s to drive on.
The legs 6” away from hinge under wheel track should be more than enough.

 

[hope to float]

What about something like this

It provides strength and legs to stop lifting the truck. Just remember to make the leg part a little short so that it doesn't get stuck when there is a load on the trailer.
But your ramp will only have to carry 2500lbs if all 4 wheels are going to be on it

 

[Kurtee]

I am not sure that the ramps are your only issue. Is the trailer built to handle the concentrated load of your machine? In studying the pictures I doubt it will take much use to show that it is not. In the long run you may be better off to buy a trailer designed to do what you are planning. Putting 5 lbs of poop in a 3 lb can doesn't always end well.

Kurtee

 

[GreensvilleJay]

That trailer will EASILY haul 2500# tractor as it's rated for 7000#. The only issue is the ramp. The current ramp is a 'landscaper' style, designed for lawnmowers NOT tractors. Replace or beef up ramp...easy.