Help With ROPS Light Switch

[Trustable]

Hi all,

I have begun to start the process of mounting some lights to my ROPS so I will able to see behind me next winter when snowblowing instead of relying on the hazard lights. I cut and drilled some angle iron yesterday and have most of the hardware to mount them. I think I know what lights I’m gonna get - diode dynamics ss3 or ss2.

i apologize if this has already been asked but I have been looking on the forum and haven’t been able to find an answer, is there a weatherproof switch that is recommended? Most of the setups I’ve seen have cabs so the switches used in those probably wouldn’t be a good idea with my setup being exposed to snow and ice. My current thought is to buy a small sealed plastic box and put the switch in there with just the top exposed or just have it inside the box and have to open it to turn them on and off. Then seal the wire entrance into the box with silicone. When I go to look online for weatherproof switches it just gives me regular automotive style switches with the rubber sides, but I don’t know how that would last even with a homemade enclosure.

 

[Runs With Scissors]

Hi all,

I have begun to start the process of mounting some lights to my ROPS so I will able to see behind me next winter when snowblowing instead of relying on the hazard lights. I cut and drilled some angle iron yesterday and have most of the hardware to mount them. I think I know what lights I’m gonna get - diode dynamics ss3 or ss2.

i apologize if this has already been asked but I have been looking on the forum and haven’t been able to find an answer, is there a weatherproof switch that is recommended? Most of the setups I’ve seen have cabs so the switches used in those probably wouldn’t be a good idea with my setup being exposed to snow and ice. My current thought is to buy a small sealed plastic box and put the switch in there with just the top exposed or just have it inside the box and have to open it to turn them on and off. Then seal the wire entrance into the box with silicone. When I go to look online for weatherproof switches it just gives me regular automotive style switches with the rubber sides, but I don’t know how that would last even with a homemade enclosure.

I would try a Marine Retailer…..Something like Hodges Marine (or someone similar).

They should be able to supply “Marine Grade” switchs for “wet weather” operation.


Take lots of pics, and post them…………We like seeing those upgrades….

 

[JasonW]

https://www.otrattw.net/

I’ve used these for years and have yet to replace one. Tractors and side by sides.
I have them mounted on the dash but they could be put anywhere.

If you make a waterproof enclosure for them be sure it’s 100 percent tight or it will just hold water/condensation.

 

[JasonW]

Also for the lights on the tractor I have them set up with a DPDT switch. So I can have them as the “low beam” is the front lights and “high beam” is front and rear lights. Just to save space for other switches.

 

[John T]

My current thought is to buy a small sealed plastic box and put the switch in there with just the top exposed or just have it inside the box and have to open it to turn them on and off. Then seal the wire entrance into the box with silicone. When I go to look online for weatherproof switches it just gives me regular automotive style switches with the rubber sides, but I don’t know how that would last even with a homemade enclosure.

I would mount it inside the cup holder.... on the flat spot.

it's a waterproof switch ...prolly be fine. they are cheap... buy a spare...

20 AMP @ 12 Volt On/Off S.P.S.T. Rocker Switches

20 AMP @ 12 Volt On/Off S.P.S.T. Rocker Switches

www.wiringdepot.com

 

[6feettogo]

I would also suggest adding a relay to feed that switch that would be tied to the ignition switch that would have to be on in order for the lights to be on.

 

[Bee-Positive]

Look for IP65/IP66 ratings or better.

 

[Trustable]

Thanks all!

I am planning on tying into the work light connector/pigtail under the left rear fender. As I understand those are only powered when the key is on. So essentially it would go from key - fuse panel - left rear fender wire - switch - worklights? I don’t think I would need a relay as the lights I am looking at are under 3.2 amps total. Maybe I am wrong there?

 

[John T]

I don’t think I would need a relay as the lights I am looking at are under 3.2 amps total. Maybe I am wrong there?

I agree.
Relay is not needed.
I would just run an inline fuse to the rocker switch.


Relays are mainly used to provide full 12v power to high amp accessories... like a winch or a high amp light(s)

 

[Trustable]

I agree.
Relay is not needed.
I would just run an inline fuse to the rocker switch.


Relays are mainly used to provide full 12v power to high amp accessories... like a winch or a high amp light(s)

Are you saying I should add an additional fuse after the built in work light fuse? As I understand that fuse only feeds that wire under the fender I’ll be tapping into.

I’m brand new to dc wiring, my electrical experience goes as far as wiring switches, outlets, and a couple plugs, not anything more than that.