help with L3650 with GST...

[aemsee]

...please. I was using it yesterday and when going to shift the shuttle in to reverse the lever would not move. The linkage is free. I pulled the cotter pin and pulled the shift arm off the lever on the trans case. Today I used a pry bar and was able to move the lever to neutral and then reverse with not too much effort. Tractor backed up no problem. Moving the lever to neutral the tractor had some creep in reverse. Moving it to forward had the same creep backwards. Moving it back to reverse tractor operated normally. How screwed am I? Thank you very much

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

It's not pretty or easy to fix.
Do you have a good shop with a flat floor?

I can give you the 100% skinny on what's involved if you want it.

I had mine apart multiple times to fix issues.

 

[aemsee]

It's not pretty or easy to fix.
Do you have a good shop with a flat floor?

I can give you the 100% skinny on what's involved if you want it.

I had mine apart multiple times to fix issues.

Yes. I have a heated garage with concrete floor. Thank you. Also have the WSM

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Yes. I have a heated garage with concrete floor. Thank you. Also have the WSM

I will say this is one operation where the WSM is only half the puzzle.
You will be dealing with 90 some O-rings and quite a few parts.
But it's not bad, I can do mine in a day.

Get the covers off the center and clean the living snot out of it.
Make it a much easier job.
If it has a loader or BH get them off of it.

It will require splitting the tractor a the mid case housing to transmission (what we normally call the rear end).

If you want to do a clutch or to get it on a bench up higher to work on you will also need to split it at the clutch housing to motor.

The red circle is the shuttle.
If your having any hesitation with it shifting into gear you might want to rebuild the hydraulic clutch while your in there.


Your issue is very likely in the syncros

 

[aemsee]

thank you. Are the parts readily available for this trans? I've never split a tractor before. Any tips come to mind that the WSM may not have in it? Many thanks

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Some parts are available, but cost of some parts will floor you.

The synchro key is $28.25 each and there are 3:

https://www.messicks.com/parts/kubota/32430-21440

The syncro ring is $137.00 each and there are 2:

https://www.messicks.com/parts/kubota/32430-67630

I just hope you have not damaged any gears or collars as they are NLA and finding used ones are near to imposible.

 

[aemsee]

thank you again

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

When you get ready to do it let me know and I'll send you a file of diagrams to help.
There is a couple of real critical points that I'll point out on the side plate disassembly and reassembly.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Have a really good floor jack and multiple jack stands.
One Important point you need to pin the front axle to the frame on both sides to keep it from tipping side to side!

I had one really nice quirk about working on mine back then.
I was on a deck of wood beams and bolted the drawbar down to the deck to keep the rear from spinning.
Made it super easy to line it all back up.

My new shop (under construction) will have attachment points in the slab for such events.

 

[aemsee]

awesome. Thank you. When you split it which half gets moved? I assumed to rear. but sounds like you move the front

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

awesome. Thank you. When you split it which half gets moved? I assumed to rear. but sounds like you move the front

It depends on how you support it.
I think the front is far easier to move than the rear.
One really nice trick is to buy 2 trailer jacks and bolt them to the sides of the bellhousing.
This makes the front very stable and very easy to move, also easy to line up on reassembly.

 

[aemsee]

It depends on how you support it.
I think the front is far easier to move than the rear.
One really nice trick is to buy 2 trailer jacks and bolt them to the sides of the bellhousing.
This makes the front very stable and very easy to move, also easy to line up on reassembly.

thank you again. Still debating to attempt this repair or to cut my losses and try to sell it. It was much bigger than I really need. If I work to fix it will probably be in to November. Too much outdoor stuff to get done before weather changes.

 

[aemsee]

It depends on how you support it.
I think the front is far easier to move than the rear.
One really nice trick is to buy 2 trailer jacks and bolt them to the sides of the bellhousing.
This makes the front very stable and very easy to move, also easy to line up on reassembly.

that is a great tip with the trailer jacks. I have a 300lb counter weight on the 3 point made from a stack of flat steel. I think lowering that to the concrete floor should stabilize the rear to keep it from rotating. Thoughts? TY

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

that is a great tip with the trailer jacks. I have a 300lb counter weight on the 3 point made from a stack of flat steel. I think lowering that to the concrete floor should stabilize the rear to keep it from rotating. Thoughts? TY

Take a piece of steel or a board and secure it to the draw bar and to your stack of steel lowered to the ground and that should do it.

 

[aemsee]

Take a piece of steel or a board and secure it to the draw bar and to your stack of steel lowered to the ground and that should do it.

I have a SMC 2408 loader on this tractor. Bucket is currently off of it. Would it be better to have the bucket mounted to better support the frame over the winter? This will be my first time removing the loader frame assy. Doesn't look too bad to do. Thanks many times over.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

If you can give me a picture or two of the loader mounts and I can tell you which way you wanna go.

 

[aemsee]

If you can give me a picture or two of the loader mounts and I can tell you which way you wanna go.

thanks. Will get some later today. Picking up a pair of trailer jacks tomorrow. Already ordered dogs and blocker rings, and praying every night whatever is broken is available

 

[aemsee]

thanks. Will get some later today. Picking up a pair of trailer jacks tomorrow. Already ordered dogs and blocker rings, and praying every night whatever is broken is available

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Yes you want to remove the entire loader, frame and mounts.
The axle bars and mounts will be in your way.
Where you remove the mounts for the loader will be where you mount the jacks.