Help with Hydraulic Pump L295dt

[Tgore76]

I’m trying to replace the Hydraulic Pump on my L295dt. I got old one off, but looks like there is a drive gear on the shaft that I need to take off and put on new pump shaft. I removed bolt at end of shaft (and washer which was bent on one side) but gear is not coming off!!

1) how do I get gear off?
2) is washer supposed to be bent up one side of bolt at end of shaft?
3) is it necessary to prime or bleed before re-assembly (I don’t have more hydraulic fluid on hand)?

Any help is greatly appreciated.

 

[Dave_eng]

Likely need a gear puller to convince the gear to come off the shaft.

Can you see a keyway?

Many auto parts places lend out specialty tools. You basically buy the tool and get your $ back when the tool is returned.

Do not go beating on the gear to get it off.

For the bent up washer to work, it would need to be keyed into a place on the shaft. i.e. a small spot on the washer bent down into the keyway.

Best to fill the pump with oil to get it to start. If your transmission level is OK, syphon out a bit to prime the pump.

Dave

 

[Tgore76]

Likely need a gear puller to convince the gear to come off the shaft.

Can you see a keyway?

Many auto parts places lend out specialty tools. You basically buy the tool and get your $ back when the tool is returned.

View attachment 72406

Do not go beating on the gear to get it off.

For the bent up washer to work, it would need to be keyed into a place on the shaft. i.e. a small spot on the washer bent down into the keyway.

Best to fill the pump with oil to get it to start. If your transmission level is OK, syphon out a bit to prime the pump.

Dave

If keyway is an extrusion on one side of shaft that the gear fits over - yes. Why? Does that have something to do with getting the gear off?

The washer is “keyed” into the shaft, but other sideis bent 90 degrees up side of retaining bolt!? Is it supposed to be that way? Should I try to straighten or do I need a replacement?

 

[Russell King]

There is a key way (slot) in the shaft and one in the gear. The key allows the gear to slide into the shaft and the key transfers torque from the gear into the shaft to turn the pump gears (inside the pump). It is probably a Woodward key and slot so you can search the web for what that is and can understand why you probably can’t see the slot in the shaft yet.

There may be a roll pin through the gear and shaft but I doubt that if there’s the key and bolt arrangement that you described.

The bolt is there. to hold the gear on. The washer has something to keep it from rotating on the shaft. When it is bent up onto the bolt head flat, it locks the bolt so it can’t come loose.

You can flatten it and reuse it or replace it. Just be sure to bend it up to lock the bolt in place when you get it back together.

 

[Tgore76]

There is a key way (slot) in the shaft and one in the gear. The key allows the gear to slide into the shaft and the key transfers torque from the gear into the shaft to turn the pump gears (inside the pump). It is probably a Woodward key and slot so you can search the web for what that is and can understand why you probably can’t see the slot in the shaft yet.

There may be a roll pin through the gear and shaft but I doubt that if there’s the key and bolt arrangement that you described.

The bolt is there. to hold the gear on. The washer has something to keep it from rotating on the shaft. When it is bent up onto the bolt head flat, it locks the

So the spindle washer is supposed to be bent up one side of the retaining bolt?

Also, when clutch was done, dealership refilled with Kubota UDT…is other hydraulic fluid compatible?

 

[Russell King]

Yes the bolt has to be locked in place. There are other ways to lock the bolt but use the washer .

You can use any universal transmission and hydraulic fluid but you probably don’t need to have much fluid to add. I personally don’t like to mix fluid types so would use UDT to top it off but mixing the fluid won’t hurt anything

 

[Tgore76]

Aaarrrghh…. Borrowed the smallest gear puller they had at AutoZone, tried the smallest one they sell at Advance Auto, Looked at ones at Harbor Freight, even looked at a faucet puller at Lowe’s - all too big. The arms won’t fit between the gear and the pump housing!?

 

[TheOldHokie]

Aaarrrghh…. Borrowed the smallest gear puller they had at AutoZone, tried the smallest one they sell at Advance Auto, Looked at ones at Harbor Freight, even looked at a faucet puller at Lowe’s - all too big. The arms won’t fit between the gear and the pump housing!?

Go back to Harbor Freight and buy one of these.

Bearing Separator and Puller Set

Amazing deals on this Bearing Separator And Puller Set at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

They are junk but they will get the gear off. If you are not in a hurry shop for a better quality set.

Dan

 

[Tgore76]

Well, the HF puller did work - thanks. Now I just need a few hours of daylight when I’m not at work so I can get it put back together!

 

[TheOldHokie]

Well, the HF puller did work - thanks. Now I just need a few hours of daylight when I’m not at work so I can get it put back together!

Great. You will be surprised at the uses you can find for a bearing separator.

Dan

 

[Tgore76]

Well, I’ve had this tractor for about 9 months and still haven’t been able to mow my field with it!

Right after I got it, the clutch went out and I had to break down and pay the dealer to do a tractor split and put a new clutch in.

I bought a new brush hog while at dealer. After they repaired the clutch I tested it in their lot. Both the factory loader and a new brush hog raised and lowered and it drove with a new clutch.

The day they delivered it back to my land, The driver lowered the brush hog and I noticed it came down with a bang - I thought it was just how touchy the controls were - not sure if this means anything?

Shortly after, I tried it and none of the hydraulics would work - neither the loader nor the three point hitch.

Paid to have the dealer transport it back (again) and they told me it needed a hydraulic pump - estimated another $1400. Said that they could tell this tractor has sat for a long time and it was common for the hydraulic pump seals to go bad. I also noticed there were colored zip ties on a lot of the hydraulic lines!? Assume they pressure tested it?

Well, I decided to do it myself and just completed the job today - pretty proud of myself for completing another task (Along with a new battery, alternator, fuel filter & oil change.

Unfortunately none of the hydraulics are fixed/working!!!??

i’m not a mechanic but I’m trying to learn
and also not break the bank. Any advice would be appreciated - The more dumbed down the better!

 

[TheOldHokie]

Quit guessing and throwing expensive parts at the problem. Buy a 3000 PSI hydraulic pressure gauge, a short hose, and some hydraulic adapters. Then start checking pressures in the circuit starting at the pump and working towards the rear until you find the failung component.

Dan

 

[Tgore76]

Quit guessing and throwing expensive parts at the problem. Buy a 3000 PSI hydraulic pressure gauge, a short hose, and some hydraulic adapters. Then start checking pressures in the circuit starting at the pump and working towards the rear until you find the failung component.

Dan

View attachment 73089

Thanks. I replaced the hydraulic pump because I paid the dealer for a diagnostic and that’s the work they quoted me needed done.

Assuming I’ve never done anything like this before - can I get this at HF….or Amazon? Will this only work where there are flexible hose fittings? Start at first fitting I can find on outlet side of pump (is following lines pretty intuitive)? What should the pressure be?

On some of other posts, I read about cleaning mesh filter and a certain valve that can clog… thought those were maybe easy places to check?

I wasn’t able to prime the hydraulic pump - if I tried to pre-fill it with fluid it would just run out of the pump before I got it connected to the engine - and once it’s bolted to the engine the hard line to the top was in the way of putting in any hydraulic fluid.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Thanks. I replaced the hydraulic pump because I paid the dealer for a diagnostic and that’s the work they quoted me needed done.

Assuming I’ve never done anything like this before - can I get this at HF….or Amazon? Will this only work where there are flexible hose fittings? Start at first fitting I can find on outlet side of pump (is following lines pretty intuitive)? What should the pressure be?

On some of other posts, I read about cleaning mesh filter and a certain valve that can clog… thought those were maybe easy places to check?

I wasn’t able to prime the hydraulic pump - if I tried to pre-fill it with fluid it would just run out of the pump before I got it connected to the engine - and once it’s bolted to the engine the hard line to the top was in the way of putting in any hydraulic fluid.

Unfortunately dealers and shops like to guess at customer expense.

I doubt HF has what you need but you can buy gauges online for $20 or so. Hoses are the easiest hookup points but with the appropriate adapters you can screw the gauge into ports on pumps and valves. I have most of the items you need for putting together a basic test kit including the gauge. I also make custom hose assemblies for a lot less than most places charge

When testing you need to be careful you dont deadhead the pump against the gauge. The gauge wont like it and neither will the pump. The system pressure relief on your tractor is located in the 3pt valve which means you need to use a flow control setup for testing pressures upstream of it. That's just a couple hoses, a high pressure valve for restricting flow, and a tee for the gauge hookup.

Get a copy of the WSM - it has hydraulic circuit diagrams and pressure test procedures in it. Ask questions here when in doubt and post pictures of the plumbing at your proposed test point. It will become crystal clear once you do one or two tests.

Dan

 

[kubotafreak]

What does the system sound like(hissy, quiet)?

Many times the suction side gets a leak and the pump intakes air. The system should self bleed if the prior issue is not there. The large cannister is the filter screen housing. Suspect the large hose junction before the filter housing. Also make sure you have a good gasket on the housing after you clean the screen.