I have some barbed wire wrapped around my bush hog blades, most is on the hub. I need to pull the blades to get it off put the splined shaft is so tight I cant get the blade assy off. I have tried driving wedges under the blades and hitting the shaft but they wont drop. Any ideas?
Help with bush hog please
- Thread starter Gatormark
- Start date
Why not get a good set of wire cutters (dikes) and cut it off one wire at a time?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ChannelLock...793197?hash=item51dfc83ded:g:KVkAAOSw9N1VxPJE
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ChannelLock...793197?hash=item51dfc83ded:g:KVkAAOSw9N1VxPJE
85Hokie
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Taking that blade off will be a majjjjjoorrr sum beaaauch......
get some (D2Cat) dikes and go to a cutting........
I got too close to a tarp one time and sucked that mofo into the 60" on my B7100......had to take the deck off, and yes that was damn near impossible - and cut, cut ,cut and more cut....
getting the deck off was 50% the battle.
those dikes and a good pair of vise grips will "get er done"
get some (D2Cat) dikes and go to a cutting........
I got too close to a tarp one time and sucked that mofo into the 60" on my B7100......had to take the deck off, and yes that was damn near impossible - and cut, cut ,cut and more cut....
getting the deck off was 50% the battle.
those dikes and a good pair of vise grips will "get er done"
North Idaho Wolfman
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85Hokie
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BX-25D ,PTB. Under Armor, '90&'92-B7100HST's, '06 BX1850 FEL
Does this mower have a stump jumper? Large disk, and you cannot get around it?
Can you get under it? I agree, trying to slide under the cutter is a royal PITA, if this is the case, several ways to get a better grip.
get chain and hold it at the highest point, or back over a small wall or bank allowing the cutter to to be higher than the ground. As NIW said - pictures are worth a 1000 words!
Can you get under it? I agree, trying to slide under the cutter is a royal PITA, if this is the case, several ways to get a better grip.
get chain and hold it at the highest point, or back over a small wall or bank allowing the cutter to to be higher than the ground. As NIW said - pictures are worth a 1000 words!
Tip it on its side, against a building, or tree, then try this:
Take a propane torch, heat the shaft and surrounding area to about 400 ºF (I assume that you already have the nut off) Then take an IR thermometer, and when the heated area around the splines cools to about 300ºF or so, take a bees wax candle, use it like a welding rod, melt it into the area and let cool down. Repeat the trying to take it off procedures you have tried before.
Most of the cross bars and stump jumpers that I have gotten off, have tapered shafts and splines. Generally, if you have that joint waxed, whacking one side of the blade holder with a sledge hammer will have it jump right off. Note, I haven't seen everything, yet, so there is always room for surprises...
Take a propane torch, heat the shaft and surrounding area to about 400 ºF (I assume that you already have the nut off) Then take an IR thermometer, and when the heated area around the splines cools to about 300ºF or so, take a bees wax candle, use it like a welding rod, melt it into the area and let cool down. Repeat the trying to take it off procedures you have tried before.
Most of the cross bars and stump jumpers that I have gotten off, have tapered shafts and splines. Generally, if you have that joint waxed, whacking one side of the blade holder with a sledge hammer will have it jump right off. Note, I haven't seen everything, yet, so there is always room for surprises...
If the shaft is heated the gearbox seals are going to be toast.
Lean the machine up against a tree and work between the stump-jumper and the deck best you can and whittle the wire off bit by bit. Tiny 4-in vise grips may help.
Getting the wash-tub size stump-jumper off will be difficult if possible at all and more likely impossible.
I have bent stumpjumpers using a hydraulic puller and it never budged.
Shops in my area won't even try to pull the stumpjumper. They just cut it off with a torch and sell a replacement as part of whatever they're doing.
Could just leave the wire in place. Keep an eye on the gearbox lube and when the seals finally give up THEN cut the stumpjumper and do the whole job. Make certain the interim the blades can swivel on their mounting bolt(s).
If the gearbox starts needing lube, shoot it full of grease-gun tube grease and keep going.
I like my stuff working correctly but sometimes you gotta live with what ya got or make it worse.
Please post back your continuing experiences so we may all learn.
Lean the machine up against a tree and work between the stump-jumper and the deck best you can and whittle the wire off bit by bit. Tiny 4-in vise grips may help.
Getting the wash-tub size stump-jumper off will be difficult if possible at all and more likely impossible.
I have bent stumpjumpers using a hydraulic puller and it never budged.
Shops in my area won't even try to pull the stumpjumper. They just cut it off with a torch and sell a replacement as part of whatever they're doing.
Could just leave the wire in place. Keep an eye on the gearbox lube and when the seals finally give up THEN cut the stumpjumper and do the whole job. Make certain the interim the blades can swivel on their mounting bolt(s).
If the gearbox starts needing lube, shoot it full of grease-gun tube grease and keep going.
I like my stuff working correctly but sometimes you gotta live with what ya got or make it worse.
Please post back your continuing experiences so we may all learn.
It won't toast the seals, if you keep the heat to under 400ºF , at the outboard end. May not even need to go that high, just high enough so the wax melts and wicks up the splines...
I've done that too, get what you can off cutters, grinders, hacksaw etc.to let it turn put it back on go find some medium brush with nobody within flying debris distance and whack away amazing what will sometmes come loose or off. Repeat as needed. Not much to lose if already talking about cutting stump jumper loose... Good luck.