Help replacing 9 inch post hole auger cutting edge

[manwe967]

I have a King Kutter 9 inch post hole auger for the tractor. The cutting edges have worn down to nothing. I think I can just flip them over to get more use out of them, or at worst just buy a new set, but none of that matters because it's freaking impossible to get the things off. They are held on by two hex bolts that are stuck. I have tried everything I can think of but nothing works.

1. breaker bar around long socket handle. Just bent the handle.
2. hammer on it with sledge and soaking it with WD-40.
3. heated it up with propane torch.
4. Bought hex bits for my 1/2 inch impact driver. won't budge.


I'm like out of ideas and now my post hole digger is a giant paper weight. I'm hoping there is something else I can try. I would even be willing to just replace the whole auger shaft with a new one, but it is that threaded "quik-tach" auger that is also impossible to get off.

Rob

 

[Henro]

Angle grinder with a cutting disc on it and cut the heads off the hex bolts?

A picture might help you get better suggestions…

 

[manwe967]

So, Eureka I figured out how to get the threaded auger shaft off. I finally had to wedge a crowbar into the pto shaft end then turned the shaft until it was against the top bar of the auger attachment like shown in the picture. Then I was able to hit the side of the auger bits with a sledge hammer and it finally broke free. What a pain in the ass and hopefully I didn't screw up my gear box. Desperate times. At least now I can just go get a new shaft for it. Stupid because it only needs the cutting edges, but the cutting edge replacements are almost as much as a new shaft anyway from what I've seen.

I'm sure there is much simpler and easier way to do this, but I had to get it done.

 

[manwe967]

Angle grinder with a cutting disc on it and cut the heads off the hex bolts?

A picture might help you get better suggestions…

Thanks for the suggestion. I couldn't get to the heads of the hex bolts because they are countersunk into the cutting edges. Anyway, I was able to get the threaded shaft off so I'm just going to replace the whole thing. When I get the new on, maybe i'll take the cutting edges off and try putting something on the threads to make them a little easier to get loose when they need to be replaced.

 

[DustyRusty]

The propane torch will not get it hot enough. Get a plumber acetylene torch and put some red hot heat on it, and then try your socket on it.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

I'm wondering if the bolts have 'Locktite' on them ? If so, you need to really, really heat whatever they're screwed into, then a couple short bursts of impact should free them.
Another be nice to be there to SEE how it's put together( manual download wasn't too informative...)
All else fails, call King Kutter and ask !

 

[manwe967]

Ok, here's a few pics. Hard to really see very well, but it's the best I can do. And a pic of the replacements so you can see what they look like new.

 

[DustyRusty]

Those are a modification of a plow bolt. They usually use maximum strength Locktite to keep them from coming loose and falling out. Takes a lot of heat to break the bond. You need a quality Allen wrench to break them loose, such as Snap-On, which will replace if you snap it off.

 

[manwe967]

I tried an allen wrench with a 2 foot long pipe used as a breaker bar and it wouldn't budge. It just bent the pipe I was using as a breaker bar. I'm guessing the only answer is heat but I don't have anything hotter than a propane torch at the moment.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

Man what a friggin NIGHTMARE....
Countersunk fine threaded bolts..

OK, I'd heat the NUT red hot,say 2-3 minutes, soak with lots of oil,alternate heat-oil-heat-oil-heat, hold with wrench(looks like 'fun'), maybe wedge a screwdriver in there ? , then 'burp' the bolt. Be sure driver is in tight and square, as it's real easy to chew the hex into a round. If possible soak nut side with 'oil'. Oh yeah, check gun is in reverse BEFORE you try the burping....BTDT-DA.

If you totally fail, get a drill bit and drill the head off the bolts(BTDT). Now they might be case hardened, so heat them up 3-5 minutes(orangy red) ,then let cool, then drill.

When you install new bolts and nuts use LOTS of neverseize ! Then, remove and add more neverseize, do it again.

If ( yeah, I'm dreaming ) you can turn the NUT, it'll be easier. The sides of the countersunk bolt 'rust weld' in .

 

[DustyRusty]

Keep your eye open for an Acetelyne B bottle and you usually can find them with the regulator, hose, and handle end inexpensively on Facebook Marketplace. If the tank it empty, find a plumbing supply house and ask what they charge to exchange. I paid $28 last month for a B (Bus size) tank exchanged at the supply house. Another supply house in the next town charges $50 for an exchange. Same with my oxygen tanks. The large national chains charge if the tank it out of date, and have all sorts of add-on charges to the cost of the exchange. A small ma & pa operation is a lot more reasonable for the same size tank.

PS: The smaller tank is known as an MC tank. MC stands for motorcycle, back in the teens when cars, busses, and motorcycles all used acetylene lights to light up the night. Back in the days when they used candles, 1 candle equaled 1 candle's power. The light of 40 candles equaled a 40-candle power bulb. don't confuse candle power with watts, because they are both different.

 

[fried1765]

Ok, here's a few pics. Hard to really see very well, but it's the best I can do. And a pic of the replacements so you can see what they look like new.

Do you have PATIENCE ???
You must clean ALL the dirt/rust from around the heads of those bolts.
Then: Spray/soak/flood the area that you have cleaned out around each head with.... KROIL!
Do this at least twice each week.... maybe 6 weeks.
Strike the bolt heads multiple times with a pneumatic (or battery powered) flat head (chisel)....... each time you add Kroil.
Use the proper hex head insert in an impact wrench.
Those bolts WILL come loose....with PATIENCE!
KROIL is miraculous stuff!
BTDT!

 

[Soopitup]

Countersunk allen bolts are the easiest ones to drill. You already have a pilot hole to start from; use a bit the same size or slightly larger than the shaft, and you only need to drill enough to cut the flared part of the head off......
Minimal amount of drilling needed.
Then drive the bolt through the other side.

Like someone already said, propane is too weak, even MAP gas isn't hot enough if it's really stubborn. You need acetylene to get it red hot.
Keep in mind whatever you heat red hot you're annealing (softening).
Matters when something is hardened.

And if you have ANY movement it absorbs the force of impact instead of the fastener.
If something is being stubborn you have to completely immobilize it or you'll get nowhere.

When you install new bolts and nuts use LOTS of neverseize ! Then, remove and add more neverseize, do it again.

Gotta be careful with that stuff, use it on the wrong stuff and you'll have bolts coming loose on you at the worst time....

 

[fried1765]

Countersunk allen bolts are the easiest ones to drill. You already have a pilot hole to start from; use a bit the same size or slightly larger than the shaft, and you only need to drill enough to cut the flared part of the head off......
Minimal amount of drilling needed.
Then drive the bolt through the other side.

Like someone already said, propane is too weak, even MAP gas isn't hot enough if it's really stubborn. You need acetylene to get it red hot.
Keep in mind whatever you heat red hot you're annealing (softening).
Matters when something is hardened.

And if you have ANY movement it absorbs the force of impact instead of the fastener.
If something is being stubborn you have to completely immobilize it or you'll get nowhere.



Gotta be careful with that stuff, use it on the wrong stuff and you'll have bolts coming loose on you at the worst time....

"Then drive the bolt through the other side"

Driving that bolt out is going to take a LOT of force, and will be VERY rough on those fine threads!

 

[Soopitup]

"Then drive the bolt through the other side"

Driving that bolt out is going to take a LOT of force, and will be VERY rough on those fine threads!

You're worried about the threads after you just drilled the head off?

Drilling several small holes along the threads of the bolt will help to drive it out.

 

[GeoHorn]

….. Same with my oxygen tanks. The large national chains charge if the tank it out of date, and have all sorts of add-on charges to the cost of the exchange. A small ma & pa operation is a lot more reasonable for the same size tank.
….

I’ve found the Exact Opposite to be true. I own my bottles and a smaller, newer-to-the-area dealer (US-OXO) wanted to charge me extra because my trade-in was out of date. I drove 10 miles further to Linde and no problem…. simple exchange… (and less for the gas as well.)

(Linde is the world's largest industrial gas company by market share and revenue.)

 

[Runs With Scissors]

I will "second" (third?) the acetylene suggestion.

Between the corrosion and possibly the Lock-tie, lots of heat will be you friend.

One other thing I have tried in the past on things that did not have Loctite on them was to heat cherry red, then splash with cold water to "shock them" apart. I have only had about a 30/70 success rate doing that though, so it could have been just dumb luck.........desperate time....desperate measures....lol

 

[mikester]

WD40 doesn't work as well as penetrating oil

 

[GreensvilleJay]

50/50 mix of ATF and acetone is the best 'penetrating/loosening oil' according to a study done 3+ decades ago. It beat out all the commercial products.
It'd be best to 'soak' the whole head in a bucket of 50/50 mix for 2-3 days. Swirl/move it around few times a day.

 

[fried1765]

WD40 doesn't work as well as penetrating oil

TRUE!