Help I'm drowning in diesel but none to the injectors.

[Workerbee]

Is your fuel supply gravity fed? It may be a supply issue or could even be that your pump isnt rotating. Maybe a key on the gear sheared. You need to diagnose it farther.

 

[rentthis]

kUBOTABOOKS.COM has a free shop manual for your engine. It's under 05 series engine. Hope this helps.

 

[mendonsy]

Check for an air leak also. I had a very small split in the return line on my B7500 a couple of years ago which caused a similar problem. The pump was drawing air from the return line and sending bubbles to the injectors.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Gravity feed the injection pump from a bottle above it, this will help purge any air out of the pump.

Is it in a tractor or other?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I have quite a few bottles with spouts on them, like bottles for gear lube.
Most auto parts stores have those kinds of bottles.

I just suspend it above the injection pump, no filter needed as it's a clean system with clean fuel.

If your worried about the fuel, filter the fuel before putting it in the bottle.

I use red off road and a clear line that way I can monitor it's flow.

 

[pittsville]

On my BX25 I had a no start condition which pointed to the injector pump. I took it off and one of the screws that holds a little plate onto the pump was almost all the way out!

The plate had an opening in it where a lever stuck out that links up to the cut off solenoid. I did not think to check but it is possible that the screw was so far out it was interfering with the movement of the cut off lever.

Anway, I tightened all four screws holding the plate on, put the pump back on, and now the tractor starts. If you take the plate off to make sure everything is lined up in there, you will see a number of things which have to mate up right.

I had to use a little hook tool to move some things that looked like little ball bearings, so they were all able to line up with notches on the operating rod, or whatever it is.

When it did die, it went from running great to refusing to fire at all. There was no bogging down or warning prior to it going into trouble.

The pump was not too hard to remove. We took the 3 lines loose at the manifold, so they lifed out with the pump, after using a long, t-handle allen wrench to take the bolts out of the pump. I was really shocked to see how far out the screw was.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I tried gravity feeding the fuel with the exact same results. Very tiny spits of fuel out of the delivery valves. Unless I can figure out another way to test the pump it looks like I need to pull the pump. The intake manifold looks like it needs to be removed first. The very tiny spits of fuel come out of the delivery valves whether i push the rack with my finger or don't push it. I bled the lines over and over and also the hoses to the injectors till i had a big rag soaked with diesel. i read on this forum that a pin on the rack has to line up to pull the pump.

Yes there is a notch in the block where it has to come up through, it's to the front.

Most people will don't be able to do anything to the injection pump themselves, as you need test equipment to check and repair them properly.

When you pull the pump there will be shims under the pump remove and SAVE those shims because regardless if you get that pump fixed or replace it with another the shims will be the same to get it back in proper time.

 

[ZD326S]

I've had clogs before at the water separator shut off valve....but mine is located before the pump...actually mine water separator in the first in line....before filter and pump. My shutoff valve had a little screen in it. But I think the newer ones do not have the screen.

 

[ZD326S]

No this is on my tractor, on my zero turn I have had clogs in the hose from tank to the manifold under the seat. I have actually disconnected the hose from the tank and siphoned the clog out of the tank/hose to clear it.

 

[whitetiger]

I've had clogs before at the water separator shut off valve....but mine is located before the pump...actually mine water separator in the first in line....before filter and pump. My shutoff valve had a little screen in it. But I think the newer ones do not have the screen.

I have only seen the water separator on ZG units, never on a ZD unit.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Injection pump removed. Nothing obviously wrong. Can anybody help with a disassembly instructions?
Do the delivery valves have to be put back in the position they were removed from?
Should I torque them to about 35 ft pounds?
Any instructions taking the injection pump apart?

Don't take it apart, There are several settings and adjustment that need to be done and they can only be done with the proper test equipment.

I can't tell you how many injection pumps I've had to either send to be repaired / rebuilt or send to the trash pile because of owner repairs.

If it has tamper proof screws in the delivery valve holders then that is one of the adjustments.
If it has staked screws on the side of the injection pump that's another one of the adjustments.
The delivery pumps have a timing marks and must be aligned with marks on the rack.

Get a professional rebuilder to test and repair / rebuild the pump if needed.

 

[coachgeo]

...Should gravity feeding fuel definitely make it pump? What next?

try this.... as close to the tank as you can... in a fuel line..... add in a very small 12v fuel pump on a switch. something like a Purolator. Honestly does not have to be diesel compatible cause your only using it as a primor or to overcome an air leak.

sometimes a hose will have an air leak you can not see until you put positive pressure on the line where diesels suck (negative pressure). BUT sometimes the leak is a flap... and under positive pressure this flap is forced closed and it stops leaking. Frustrating.

also clean all areas super good and add the ultraviolet fuel system trace solutions to the tank. while operating the pump.... with UV light and the right UV glasses.... search for the leak. They are far more visible in that scenario.

 

[Workerbee]

Gravity feeding simply would eliminate the possibility of a bad fuel pump. If you have uninhibited fuel flow either way, and your injector pump isnt pumping, then theres a clog in it or have an air lock. You mention spitting, Id think get your lines on, crack them at the injectors and get the lines filled till they spit up at the top. Then hook them up. If you need to, use a pump oil can to fill the lines. Then you will probably have gotten the air out and will get it running.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

The main part of the pump that does the work is the deliver pumps and valves. So you essentially did nothing to actually check the pump for internal damage or obstructions, so the pump could still have a major issue.

 

[Rock farmer]

You say you bought this as a basket case?
Are you sure you have the right pump?
I would pull the pump and measure the distance to the cam.
The rollers on the pump should always be in contact with the cam.

Joe

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Nozzlemasters in Orlando said the injection pump does pump fine out of the delivery valves and he said he moved the rack and fuel does shut off. We also took one of the roller assemblies apart and there was not any scoring on the center needle. They reassembled it.
When I put the injection pump back in I felt a slot with my finger that the rack pin slides in. It went in easily but stopped before the flat surface of the pump housing because of the fuel cam lobes hitting the rollers on the pump. I evenly tightened all four bolts pulling the inj pump down to the housing.
Does anybody know if the slot position is a fuel on or off position? It is a Zexel 16032 3 cylinder pump. The throttle was wide open when the pump was slid back in so it seems like it would be a wide open throttle position needed too slide the pump back in. I have the throttle wide open or full throttle when cranking the motor over looking for fuel. The fuel position just has to be on. It just doesn't seem to be somehow tho. With the pump on the bench and the rack facing me, is sliding the rack left fuel OFF and sliding the rack to the right side full ON? It must be if the fuel solenoid pushes it to the right with the key on.
The fuel shutoff solenoid pushes out strongly with the key on and I can't force it back in the solenoid using my finger. I would question whether the pin goes back in the solenoid with the key off. It didn't before I reinstalled the solenoid back in the pump housing. I did push it in with my finger with key off.
I put a new electric fuel pump on it. No change but it is louder. The only way I know to bleed this injection pump is to loosen the banjo fitting bolt that the fuel line attaches to at the injection pump and turn the electric pump on with the key and pump air out of the lines. I also removed the return lines and bled more fuel out of them. I have probably pumped a whole gallon thru the lines trying to make sure the lines are bled thoroughly. Not one drop out of the delivery valves. I feel totally stupid trying to find this problem. I own five diesel engines and have had many more. What in the world could I be doing wrong?? PLEASE HELP

One: You need to keep everything in one thread you have two going with the same issue, makes it hard to give you consistent advice.

Your going to have to supply some pictures as it really sounding like your not getting the rack pin on the injection pump into the proper position on the governor linkage.

 

[Russell King]

UPDATE I figured it out. Somebody had the cover off with the throttle and shutoff lever on it. They put it back on wrong forcing the rack to be shut off.

See bottom of post 24

Sounds like he may have resolved the problem? Not sure what he found though.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[thepumpguysc]

u said u loosened the injector "Return Line Bolts".. THEY do absolutly nothing to bleed the air in the STEEL LINES FROM the inj. pump..
U need to loosen the STEEL LINES FROM the IP & crank the engine..
Good luck