I believe so BUT my point was that there is a Kubota branded offering that I preferred and my dealer had zero interest in getting it for me. Seems odd is all.Isn’t Land Pride owned by Kubota?
I believe so BUT my point was that there is a Kubota branded offering that I preferred and my dealer had zero interest in getting it for me. Seems odd is all.Isn’t Land Pride owned by Kubota?
Oversize R4's and R14's are available on the cab model. MMM isn't available if you decide to go that route.Also consider getting the tires loaded with RinGuard it makes a big difference in traction. I have the bigger Std L size 15-19.5 R4 tires on mine but you can only get them with a ROPS tractor. They will not clear the fenders on the cab version I am told. I got the ROPS because of all the tree branches I have to deal with. You might want to consider spacers with the Cab version as they tend to be more top heavy.
Just my $0.02
Dave
I’m wondering if Kubota is discontinuing certain products in both the Kubota and Land Pride lines to avoid duplication?I believe so BUT my point was that there is a Kubota branded offering that I preferred and my dealer had zero interest in getting it for me. Seems odd is all.
I had the Kubota kit on my LX2610 and specified to my dealer I wanted the same on my LX3310 and he said that's the only kit they use on the LX's. Tractor Time With Tim has a good video showing side by side installs with both kits.I’m wondering if Kubota is discontinuing certain products in both the Kubota and Land Pride lines to avoid duplication?
That's good to know on the bucket. I was hoping it wasn't thinner. I was quoted the kubota 3rd. From what I'm reading it seems like the best option so gtg there. I am getting spacers as well as rim guard. Thanks for the info.The 60" bucket has the same steel thickness as the 54" bucket. Kubota calls it "light material' because if you were to load it heaping full of wet sand the loader would not lift the load as it would be too much weight.
I got a quick hitch from the local farm & fleet store was $199 on a black Friday sale last year. made in India welds look good it weights 81 pounds and has an adjustable top hook.
I have the Kubota 3rd function on mine. The thing I like about it is the hard lines for where it runs along the loader arm. Also really like the control knob. What I'm not as fond of is the hose from the solenoid valve to the hard line is outside the loader frame. I haven't snagged the lines yet but that was the chief reason for not getting the swift tach option for the loader is my woods are pretty tight and my LX2610 is on the big side for working in the woods.
The rear remotes are pricey but I would get at least 1 so you can use a hydraulic top link. I have a 2nd remote but I do not use it near as much as I do the 1st one.
Also consider getting the tires loaded with RinGuard it makes a big difference in traction. I have the bigger Std L size 15-19.5 R4 tires on mine but you can only get them with a ROPS tractor. They will not clear the fenders on the cab version I am told. I got the ROPS because of all the tree branches I have to deal with. You might want to consider spacers with the Cab version as they tend to be more top heavy.
Just my $0.02
Dave
I just watched this and did verify i was quoted the Kubota.I had the Kubota kit on my LX2610 and specified to my dealer I wanted the same on my LX3310 and he said that's the only kit they use on the LX's. Tractor Time With Tim has a good video showing side by side installs with both kits.
If you are doing things like running a blade you will want top-n-tilt which will use two out of three rear remotes. If you do any kind of grading you will want the hydraulic top link and tilt cylinders for sure.I'm sure you are correct on the class 2. I am now looking into the pats system, its much cheaper and anything I have I will need to hook up the pto anyways so hooking up the top link shouldn't be a big deal. I am getting the 3rd function up front. The seat is already the upgraded one which is adjustable for weight up to like 250 or 300lbs I believe.
What implements do you run that need rear remotes? For my use, I'm not sure I will need a rear remote but I may have just not seen the attachment I have to have.
Thanks for the response.
I don't currently have a need to do any grading but I am going to look into the price of some remotes. What would stop a guy from running lines from the takeoff in the middle of the tractor of the front 3rd function to the back? Then just use the knob buttons for adjustment? Couple hoses and maybe some kind of bracket would be all you need. I'm talking more for grading, not running splitter / chipper or similar. I would not be using this setup often so the lines could literally just hang on the outside temporarily. Looking up prices for remotes seems like they are pretty spendy.If you are doing things like running a blade you will want top-n-tilt which will use two out of three rear remotes. If you do any kind of grading you will want the hydraulic top link and tilt cylinders for sure.
I also use a remote for my wood chipper hydraulic in-feed, snow blower chute turner.
That can certainly be done. Some folks with just the rear remotes run hoses to the front to use as a 3rd function as well.I don't currently have a need to do any grading but I am going to look into the price of some remotes. What would stop a guy from running lines from the takeoff in the middle of the tractor of the front 3rd function to the back? Then just use the knob buttons for adjustment? Couple hoses and maybe some kind of bracket would be all you need. I'm talking more for grading, not running splitter / chipper or similar. I would not be using this setup often so the lines could literally just hang on the outside temporarily. Looking up prices for remotes seems like they are pretty spendy.
I don't think I have ever purchased an extended warranty ever either and probably won't this time either. I am getting the tired filled, rim guard / beet juice. Thanks for the reply.I've a HF QH, and it works with Frontier cutter, Woods BB and WM WC46 chipper but requires a U adaptor to use the Frontier RB. Had to replace the top hook with one from Amazon to work with the cutter. Requires Cat 1/2 and Cat 2/3 bushings except for the RB which is a tad not wide enough to put the pins in to hold the bushings. Just let it slop. Could buy the $38 pin gizmos for it, but only used to move snow and not that much here in central Va.
I'd look at the Pat's lift arm ends. They don't restrict access to the PTO because no vertical bars. The top link will probably need to be a longer one.
I've never ever gotten an extended warranty on anything now into my 80th year.
When I got my B2601 in January there was a month or more wait to get the rear hydraulics. Didn't get but got the 3rd function for the FEL lift arms. Likely will never use it unless my very helpful wife dies and I have to make do without her. She's a good bucket loader of tree pieces, etc.
Got liquid ballast of some sort, either salt or windshield wiper fluid. Haven't tasted it; I'd voted for WW fluid but it does not have a blue color. The buy used the FEL to lift the 518 # Woods BB when he delivered it in the back of an F150. It was cantilevered out all in front of the FEL. No problem.
I've the 60" bucket. Think it's tough enough.
Hope yours fuel usage is as low as mine so far: 0.36 gph. Another guy with a B2650 says 0.44 gph.