hello im new here and have a couple questions. I have a b7610 with a Woods loader, and the lever to work the bucket is giving trouble. It will sometimes not let the bucket down unless I push it all the way forward to the float position but wont put any down pressure. also sometimes will not lift a load, but i can dump the load and it lifts fine. Any suggestions? Also, what type of hydralic fluid should I use, and does it have more than 1 resevior?Thanks
Hello and a b7610 question
- Thread starter BEARHUNTER
- Start date
Butch
Active member
Equipment
Kubota 2410, RC60-24B, FL1000- kubota hydrolic front snow blade- plug aerator
What is the make of the loader valve... I just went through the same thing on my B2410
and may be able to assist. It would be good if you could send a few pics of the control valve along with ANY data that may be on it in the form of labels, names or the such.
Butch
and may be able to assist. It would be good if you could send a few pics of the control valve along with ANY data that may be on it in the form of labels, names or the such.Butch
ptwyz
New member
Equipment
BX2660, FEL, tiller, disc cultivator, tine cultivator, rear blade, MMM, & more!!
Like Butch asked, if you could get pictures that would be great.
Is your 7610 an HST?
Scott
Yes it is HST.The info on the valve is:
Husco
J03A4334 00
1005722
9210-B12 0
I used tractor yesterday and it lifted and lowered fine when it was cool but when it heated up is when the problems started.
Husco
J03A4334 00
1005722
9210-B12 0
I used tractor yesterday and it lifted and lowered fine when it was cool but when it heated up is when the problems started.
Well, going back over the basic questions you have.
You have the HST and here is how to make sure that the hydro pressure is taken from the tractor and not another pump.
Standing to the right side of the tractor look at your brake pedals. Now go under the tractor and as you view the brake pedal linkage look slightly up to the right and you should see this picture...
If you see this then you are using the same fluid that the HST is running on. On the Kubota FEL, the forward line is the pressure and goes to the lift function. The aft line is what's called power beyond and goes to the curl/dump function.
After the tractor is warmed up check the hydro level with the yellow dip stick as seen in this view looking down from the driver seat.
Back to the hydro pump and lines. The power beyond connection is a complex thing to explain but is basically another pressure take off from the pump. It is also the power beyond that will split off and run other remotes like Top & Tilt.
Some suggestions are to make sure the forward pressure line is running the lift function. If you have any more remotes that are running from hydro pressure then they can't all operate at the same time.
All combination's of the FEL will work fine together. But as you begin robbing pressure from other devices like the 3PH and Top & Tilt at the same time then at least one of them is not going to work.
Make sure the fluid level is good when the tractor is warmed up. The B7610 operator manual calls for Kubota Super UDT, but that's not what I use. The poison of choice is Coastal Multitrac Tractor Fluid P/N 42909. I purchase it at Auto Zone and it does meet the Kubota UDT standard. Here is a link with it's details.
Butch and others will be along with your hydraulic spool specifics for help in that area.
But for now, just go back over the basics we covered.
Scott
Last edited:
Thanks Traildust
I use the same coastal fluid, and the level is good when warm. I will check the pressure lines and get back to you. thanks again for the help
I use the same coastal fluid, and the level is good when warm. I will check the pressure lines and get back to you. thanks again for the help
When you go back out there, lift the seat and remove the vent tube. At the base of the rubber tube firmly grasp it and slowly work until it comes out. Inspect for any blockage in the tube.
This thing has a tiny-tiny vent hole and if perhaps some ladybugs were to crawl in there then this would be a problem. Use an air compressor to blow it out.
Driving the HST may not show a clogged vent as readily as moving the loader. Especially after it has warmed up with hot fluid expanding and also the case has to breath with continuous loss and gain of hydro fluid to run the loader.
Scott
This thing has a tiny-tiny vent hole and if perhaps some ladybugs were to crawl in there then this would be a problem. Use an air compressor to blow it out.
Driving the HST may not show a clogged vent as readily as moving the loader. Especially after it has warmed up with hot fluid expanding and also the case has to breath with continuous loss and gain of hydro fluid to run the loader.
Scott
Butch
Active member
Equipment
Kubota 2410, RC60-24B, FL1000- kubota hydrolic front snow blade- plug aerator
Take a look at the following site to actually see what is in your valve. the color cutaway is nice but does not accurately your valve; however that last sheet in the catalog cut does to a tee.
http://www.huscointl.com/media/pdf/construction/9210.pdf
What I would do first is to remove the control valve from the tractor. Once you get the cover off only two bolts hold the valve on the tractor mounting plate. You can remove all the lines from the valve before removal EXCEPT one and that one is the inlet (not enought room to get a wrench between the tractor and valve).
The first thing I would do once on a work bench is remove the two poppet check valves that look like plugs and set between the A/B and C/D hydraulic quick disconnects. There will be three pieces to each... cap plug, spring and poppet valve. Make sure they are clean and set aside.
Next on the raise/lower spool remove the spring housing assembly,i.e. "detent" collars, spring and the 5 ball bearings that will fall out when you slide the cap off the housing. Catch the bearings as thay are a B^&*(* to find when they fall and roll. Technically the detent collar should stay in place when you pull off the cap... however if it has never been off I will bet it is corroded to the cap and will come off with it leaving the bearings to go where ever.
I used a 3/4" copper fitting wire cleaner brush to clean the detent collar.
On the other valve end do two things;
First take a 1" open end wrench and remove the cap over the adjusting screw, then remove the pressure relief from the valve body.
Second... take the two cap screws out holding the collar and seals from the upper end (lever end) of the spool. BE CAREFULL the nylon gasket is cupped on one side for the o ring in the recessed part of the valve body. Remember for reassembly.
Now from the bottom of the valve grasp the spring and pull the spool out of the valve body. Check it for damage... chips ect. On a clean cloth roll the valve on its end and let the residual oil come out on the rag looking for metal shaving and debris. If you wish you you could shoot a little comperssed air in the valve body to clear the spool passage.
Now clean and reassemble. Hopefully you problem was the crude and corrosion in the detent and ball bearing assembly that was causing your spool to act up. I also gave my relief valve about 1/2 turn to increase the FEL line pressure.
Make note of the direction of the dent collar when you reassemble... the ridge ring in the collar goes towards the botton. It is also shown in the shop drawing. Also look at the shop drawing and how the assembled spring, big center ball bearing and the 4 smaller ball bearings are configured. There is a trick to getting the spring loaded ball bearing on and BEHIND the 4 smaller bearings when you slide the detent collar OVER the 4 smaller ball bearing to hold everything in place... now just slip the cap on and bolt on with the two long cap screws at your leisure.
Here is the trick... use grease to hold the 4 little ball bearings in place and insert spring and just stick the larger bearing in the hole with the spring wityh a dob of grease to keep it in place.
Take the allen wrench use to remove the cap screws and slide the detent collar over it with the ring toward your hand. Carefully with the allen wrench press the big ball bearing past the little bearings, reseat the little bearings in their hole seats and then slide the collar up and over the whole thing.
The collar will hold everything in place for final assembly.
Ps... don't do like I did and forget to place the oval washers and spring covers in place BEFORE to install the detent collar...
Now do the same thing for the other spoon and reassemble pressure relief.
Reinstall valve and keep your fingers crossed....
Butch
PS also take as look at the preventative maintence tips thread some 3 pages deep in the threads I have a labeled pic of my valve...
http://www.huscointl.com/media/pdf/construction/9210.pdf
What I would do first is to remove the control valve from the tractor. Once you get the cover off only two bolts hold the valve on the tractor mounting plate. You can remove all the lines from the valve before removal EXCEPT one and that one is the inlet (not enought room to get a wrench between the tractor and valve).
The first thing I would do once on a work bench is remove the two poppet check valves that look like plugs and set between the A/B and C/D hydraulic quick disconnects. There will be three pieces to each... cap plug, spring and poppet valve. Make sure they are clean and set aside.
Next on the raise/lower spool remove the spring housing assembly,i.e. "detent" collars, spring and the 5 ball bearings that will fall out when you slide the cap off the housing. Catch the bearings as thay are a B^&*(* to find when they fall and roll. Technically the detent collar should stay in place when you pull off the cap... however if it has never been off I will bet it is corroded to the cap and will come off with it leaving the bearings to go where ever.
I used a 3/4" copper fitting wire cleaner brush to clean the detent collar.
On the other valve end do two things;
First take a 1" open end wrench and remove the cap over the adjusting screw, then remove the pressure relief from the valve body.
Second... take the two cap screws out holding the collar and seals from the upper end (lever end) of the spool. BE CAREFULL the nylon gasket is cupped on one side for the o ring in the recessed part of the valve body. Remember for reassembly.
Now from the bottom of the valve grasp the spring and pull the spool out of the valve body. Check it for damage... chips ect. On a clean cloth roll the valve on its end and let the residual oil come out on the rag looking for metal shaving and debris. If you wish you you could shoot a little comperssed air in the valve body to clear the spool passage.
Now clean and reassemble. Hopefully you problem was the crude and corrosion in the detent and ball bearing assembly that was causing your spool to act up. I also gave my relief valve about 1/2 turn to increase the FEL line pressure.
Make note of the direction of the dent collar when you reassemble... the ridge ring in the collar goes towards the botton. It is also shown in the shop drawing. Also look at the shop drawing and how the assembled spring, big center ball bearing and the 4 smaller ball bearings are configured. There is a trick to getting the spring loaded ball bearing on and BEHIND the 4 smaller bearings when you slide the detent collar OVER the 4 smaller ball bearing to hold everything in place... now just slip the cap on and bolt on with the two long cap screws at your leisure.
Here is the trick... use grease to hold the 4 little ball bearings in place and insert spring and just stick the larger bearing in the hole with the spring wityh a dob of grease to keep it in place.
Take the allen wrench use to remove the cap screws and slide the detent collar over it with the ring toward your hand. Carefully with the allen wrench press the big ball bearing past the little bearings, reseat the little bearings in their hole seats and then slide the collar up and over the whole thing.
The collar will hold everything in place for final assembly.
Ps... don't do like I did and forget to place the oval washers and spring covers in place BEFORE to install the detent collar...
Now do the same thing for the other spoon and reassemble pressure relief.
Reinstall valve and keep your fingers crossed....
Butch
PS also take as look at the preventative maintence tips thread some 3 pages deep in the threads I have a labeled pic of my valve...
Attachments
digg71
New member
Equipment
B3200 w/ FEL, Box Scraper, Post Hole Auger, 4' Rotary Cutter, Snowblower
Hello BEARHUNTER and welcome to the site, I have only been a member for a week or two and it still amazes me how knowledgeable and willing to help everyone on this site is.....
I am totally new to tractors period. I wish I had something to add but I am not even a rookie yet when it comes to this stuff. The members on here will help get you back up and running, I am sure of this...
Good luck!
Jim
I am totally new to tractors period. I wish I had something to add but I am not even a rookie yet when it comes to this stuff. The members on here will help get you back up and running, I am sure of this...
Good luck!
Jim
Jim,Hello BEARHUNTER and welcome to the site, I have only been a member for a week or two and it still amazes me how knowledgeable and willing to help everyone on this site is.....
I am totally new to tractors period. I wish I had something to add but I am not even a rookie yet when it comes to this stuff. The members on here will help get you back up and running, I am sure of this...
Good luck!
Jim
You're doing good brother. Just hang in there and your time will come.
I guarantee you have a helpful tidbit locked up that nobody else knows.
Take care,
Scott
Thanks alot guys. I will try this stuff as soon as I get a chance, and let yall know how it turns out.
When you do get to the tractor take the baby step method and start with the easiet procedures first and then work you way up.
Most of all, good luck!
Scott
Does anyone know where the pump pressure adjustment is on a B7610?I have tried everything else and wonder if turning up the pressure would help.
Remember the hydraulics to run the loader are the same ones driving the tractor. If the HST operates fine then I would not adjust anything.
If you think you are having problems with pressure on the loader then get a test gauge and jump it in to check the operating pressures.
Scott
Please do not get discouraged. What I would do first is get a test gauge on a " T " with quick disconnect fittings and jump it in between the line and spool/vavle. See what pressures you have and go from there.
Good luck,
Scott
Butch
Active member
Equipment
Kubota 2410, RC60-24B, FL1000- kubota hydrolic front snow blade- plug aerator
Let's take a step back and look at the logic of the hydraulic plumbing... does the 3 point hitch work under a goog load? If so that shows the pump is kicking out pressures that should run the loader cylinders... simply because the 3 point hitch pressure is coming off the power beyond port on the control valve.
This may sound redundant but follow the oil supply line from the hydraulic pump to the junction block where the loader valve connects into the hydraulic system. MAKE FOR CERTAIN the line from the first hole in the block closest to the pump goes to the Inlet port on the valve and the power beyond from the valve goes to the second lower hole on the block heading to the rear of the tractor. The outlet hose on the valve makes its way back to the sump.
I could see myself getting a bit confused and at this point we need to make sure the bases have been covered...
Other than this I got nothing at this time.. but still thinking about it...
Good luck.... Butch
This may sound redundant but follow the oil supply line from the hydraulic pump to the junction block where the loader valve connects into the hydraulic system. MAKE FOR CERTAIN the line from the first hole in the block closest to the pump goes to the Inlet port on the valve and the power beyond from the valve goes to the second lower hole on the block heading to the rear of the tractor. The outlet hose on the valve makes its way back to the sump.
I could see myself getting a bit confused
and at this point we need to make sure the bases have been covered...Other than this I got nothing at this time.. but still thinking about it...
Good luck.... Butch
Let's take a step back and look at the logic of the hydraulic plumbing... does the 3 point hitch work under a goog load? If so that shows the pump is kicking out pressures that should run the loader cylinders... simply because the 3 point hitch pressure is coming off the power beyond port on the control valve.
This may sound redundant but follow the oil supply line from the hydraulic pump to the junction block where the loader valve connects into the hydraulic system. MAKE FOR CERTAIN the line from the first hole in the block closest to the pump goes to the Inlet port on the valve and the power beyond from the valve goes to the second lower hole on the block heading to the rear of the tractor. The outlet hose on the valve makes its way back to the sump.
I could see myself getting a bit confused
Other than this I got nothing at this time.. but still thinking about it...
Good luck.... Butch
You are a good man Butch.
Scott