Hauling

[mpallen2011]

Hey i finally got a trailer that can haul my mx4800 and was wondering what size chains and binders i would need to safely haul my tractor. how many chains would you recommend/ use when you haul? also any advice for a first time tractor haulers. thank you so much for the info

 

[ayak]

I went with 6 of each of these (2 spares). Lots of good YouTube videos on this as well

 

[200mph]

Assuming you are going to use on public roads, wouldn't a better question be, "What size chains and binders i would need to legally haul my tractor?"

 

[mpallen2011]

Assuming you are going to use on public roads, wouldn't a better question be, "What size chains and binders i would need to legally haul my tractor?"

OF COURSE LEGALLY

 

[MOOTS]

DOT says everything must have 2 tie downs. Over 10k takes 4. Implements and buckets must be secured to deck also. 3/8 grade 70 is the standard. Ratchet binders are nice. Get a few spares of each and different lengths of chain. Never know what you may haul.
https://www.uscargocontrol.com/ has everything you need.

 

[UpNorthMI]

I really like these, they have a good adjustment length, handle folds flat

Amazon.com

 

[BigG]

To be legal the WLL, working load limit, strength of the chains need to be 50% of the weight of the tractor. Tractor data shows your tractor is less then 4000 pounds. The WLL of the 5/16 Grade 70 chain is 4700 pounds. The difference in handling 5/16 vs 3/8 chains makes the 5/16 chain much more attractive.You could use 2 chains and be legal. The problem comes when you hook to the front of the tractor. It may be advantageous to go with 2 short chains that you hook to the weight bracket of the tractor. Be careful if you wrap the chains around the cast pieces of the front axle, it is easy to damage the cast iron.

The rear is usually pretty easy to chain. There is often a place to hook to with out having to use a clevis or shackle. The clevis is good to hook to if you want to go that route.

The binders that are shown above are very serviceable and there other styles with folding handles. Stay away from the snap binders that can be dangerous to use.

There is nothing that says you must put a chain or strap across the FEL until the machine weighs more than 10,000 pounds. But if the popo see the strap going across it they are more incline to believe you know what you are doing.

Place a strap across anything attached to the rear of the tractor. The popo consider it a separate piece so throw a strap or chain over the piece.

So a tractor with a FEL and a hog on the back needs a minimum of 4 chains. Easier to to put 4 on the tractor plus 1 on each attachment, FEL and hog.

If you are going to transport the same machine often it might make life easier to buy a 20 chain and cut it in half. With one hook you can attach to the tractor and using the binder hook to the trailer. It makes using the binder much easier since it is out at the edge of the trailer.

 

[Lil Foot]

I chain my B7100 with (2) 3/8" chains & appropriately sized load binders. People ask me all he time why I use such heavy chain. Simple answer- it is what I have. I could go buy some 5/16" chain & smaller binders, but why? They're a little heavy, but I need the exercise.

Years ago on a trip, I pulled off the road at a wide spot to take a break, and found a new 30' 3/8" chain & binder, still with DOT stickers on them, brand new.

A few years after that, I saw and flagged down a semi that was hauling a huge old trackhoe- the boom & bucket had come loose & was hanging off the side of the trailer. (a chain had broken) The guy brought out a whole pile of chain & binders, and I helped him re-secure it. When he got ready to leave, I pointed out that he had left a 20' 3/8" chain & binder on the ground. He told me to keep them for saving his license.

Since then I've picked up another 20 footer & a 35 footer at sales. (cheap)

 

[SidecarFlip]

I don't use chains at all, I use straps. Much easier on the paint and always a bunch in the tool box as we use them on round bales.

 

[bx tractorjoe]

I always use 4 chains and load binders that will handle twice the weight of the load themselves..

I think someone on here said a trucker told him if you can pick the trailer up and turn it upside down and the load dont move your good...

What's really important is the rear tie downs.. for say.. some dummy in a car decides to hit the breaks in front of you and you have to
slam on the breaks the last thing you want is a tractor that keeps going into the back if the tow vehicle so the rear chains should always be overkill to keep the load in place..

Its also important to chain it down in a way that the load will not slid sideways.. so chaining it down at a side angle or crossing the chains sideways is a good idea as well

 

[Captain13]

Be careful crossing chains from the tractor to the opposite side of the trailer. The tractor can roll over crossing chains that way. Sometimes drivers will cross the front chains to avoid lateral movement but that is usually on heavier equipment where they will add chains in the center of the load that do not cross. The chain should attach to the trailer on the same side as the tractor. Length should be as short as possible, front and rear chains chains angled to not allow forward and rear movement. Longer chain length between the tractor and trailer can allow for lateral movement of the tractor.

This guy does it right.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

different state = diferent rules, so best to check within your state ( or province...), also if going 'out of state' be SURE to know what the laws are where you're going !
That being said , I use 4 chains, one per corner as well as 1 on loader and 1 on bucket. I also strap down the seat in the folded position. I use 3/8 chain and 'old skool' binders as it's what I have. Way 'overkill' for the BX23S BUT I KNOW it's safe and secure.
The BIG issue is whether the trailer is legally capable to haul your tractor !! As well, be sure to position the tractor in the 'sweet' spot and confirm the brakes work properly on the trailer !!!

 

[ki4dog]

FWIW, I use chains on the tractor (L2501) and straps on the implements. I don't see the need to use chains on a rotary cutter and it messes up the paint.

 

[ki4dog]

I can't find the DOT regs that state the implement has to be secured to the trailer when under 10k lbs (393.128). Over 10k in 393.130 it just states this:

(b) Preparation of equipment being transported. (1) Accessory equipment, such as hydraulic shovels, must be completely lowered and secured to the vehicle.

Doesn't state secured to the trailer, just vehicle. I'm not saying it doesn't exist. I'd just like to find it so I can carry a copy in my tow vehicle. I can post a link to these rules if allowed here. Thanks.

 

[BigG]

I can't find the DOT regs that state the implement has to be secured to the trailer when under 10k lbs (393.128). Over 10k in 393.130 it just states this:

(b) Preparation of equipment being transported. (1) Accessory equipment, such as hydraulic shovels, must be completely lowered and secured to the vehicle.

Doesn't state secured to the trailer, just vehicle. I'm not saying it doesn't exist. I'd just like to find it so I can carry a copy in my tow vehicle. I can post a link to these rules if allowed here. Thanks.

"secured to the vehicle" can be read two ways. The "shovel" must be secured to the (vehicle) tractor or to the (vehicle) trailer. Some people read it to say that the securement must cover the boom and the bucket even if they are hooked together, say on a front end loader. Often you will see a strap hooked to one side of the trailer, over the bucket, around the boom, over the other side of the bucket, and finally to the opposite side of the trailer in a v-shape to cover their back sides.

The other part that you must consider is the length of the equipment and the number of straps or chains that are required for the length. Two straps/chains for the first 10 feet and 1 more strap for each additional 10 feet or part there of.

And to top it all off the DOT can enforce it how he sees fit.

As far as carrying the rules with you. Buy a copy in the truckstop. Ask for the "little green book" and it will cover everything. I bought mine 7-8 years ago and find it easier then looking up rules on the phone.

 

[bx tractorjoe]

Go to a local truck stop and see how there equipment is tied down if your really worried about it.. or just over do it just to be safe..

I would rather spend an extra 10 min strapping attachments down then get pulled over by dot and have them go over your trailer, and tires and how it's secured and risk getting a ticket then not to over do it

 

[troverman]

I had an MX4800 with a loader. I always used 2 chains, both grade 70 5/16, with 5/16 ratchet binders, or occasionally the cam-lock binders. I'd remove the draw bar from the tractor and run on chain through the draw-bar hitch and then at an angle on each side to tie downs further back. On the front, I use the bumper / brush guard / weight bar area; run a chain across or through that, going forward at an angle on both sides and hooking in to tie down points ahead of the tractor. I never use four chains...its more inconvenient and I find if one gets loose, they all do.

It is worth putting the tractor into 4x4, the lowest gear, and applying the parking brake.