I read somewhere that the majority of the cutting takes place in the inch or so of blade near the tip. Maybe you only need to hard face the tip?
-- Carl
-- Carl
I tried it once with nickel hard facing rods and didn't think it was worth the time, effort or money. The most bang for my buck is keeping the underside of the deck clean and avoid driving through obstacle courses - and stop to pick up hidden junk right after finding it.When I'm using the mower and run over barbed wire or baling wire and it wraps around the blades real good I go back to the garage, lift up the deck and take the blades off and then the wire just falls off.
While I have the blades off I usually sharpen them real quick with a flap disc.
Then for about 10 to 15 minutes after they are sharpened they cut amazing, then eventually I look back and there are a bunch of weeds sticking up and I have to slow back down so the dull blades can beat their way through the grass and weeds.
I can go 2x and up to 3x faster with freshly sharp blades.
I'm thinking if I hard face the blades then 10 to 15 minutes of fast cutting turns into 30 minutes to an hour. So it could really be worth it. That's probably cutting twice as much grass burning the same amount of gas and half the time that is if the blades stay sharp for 45min to an hour.
Same with the flail shreadder. The blades on it are pretty much worn out. When I get new ones I would like to hard face them too after they are broken in. The ones on there are way too far gone.
Don't worry I can ballance them. Even the individual flail shreadder blades.
If your are not familiar with hard facing rod it's far harder than any hardened, heat treated mower blade. It's so hard I had to upgrade from a 120v powered 8 inch grinder to a 9 inch 240v powered grinder just to some what effectively be able to grind it to shape when required.
The mower is a 42'' craftsman with a 17.5hp Kohler motor and the flail shreadder is on my little kubota.
Has anyone hard faced mower or brush shreadder blades?