Hanix Mini Giant excavator?

[Lil Foot]

Looks like you are making some progress Bill. Can't wait to see it working. Later, Dave

Yup, but I'd like to get past this (incredibly dirty) "busy" work and get on with the fun stuff, like the tracks, the worn pins/bushings, and trying to resurrect the dash, instruments, & lights.

Looks like it is supposed to rain for the next few days, so maybe I will get out the fin comb set & clean up the radiator fins.

 

[aaluck]

Pulled the engine cover for better access. Spent hours trying to figure out how to pull the radiator, finally succeeded once I figured out where all the bolts where. The radiator support, held in with (4) bolts, none visible under all the dirt, also supports the hydraulic filter. Hydraulic line goes through the support, (poor design, can't pull the support without breaking the hydraulic circuit) and the radiator & shroud is bolted to the support with (4) bolts, none visible under all the dirt. Radiator drain cock was broken off as I suspected, but came out easily with a LH drill. I had a couple new ones on hand, so easy fix there. Radiator has no leaks. Upper, lower, & bypass hoses all recently replaced, but clamped with wire hose clamps, which will be replaced with worm drive band clamps.
Now if I could only figure out where the block drain is.

Fan belt was not much more than a few cords with blocks of crumbling rubber, so have purchased a new one along with new hydraulic, oil, fuel, and air filters. Air filter happens to be the same one my B7100 uses.

The pics below showing the engine, radiator support, & radiator are all AFTER (5) rounds of engine degreaser, putty knife, scrub brush, and pressure washer.

Electric fuel pump is currently not installed, waiting for time to change all fuel supply & return lines.

PO did not know there was a hydraulic level gauge, it was leaking & covered with approximately 1/2" of dirt & grease/oil. Simply tightening the two chrome bolts & PWing and it is working & visible.

View attachment 72365 View attachment 72366 View attachment 72367 View attachment 72368 View attachment 72369 View attachment 72370

I have to say I LOVE that hydraulic level gauge. My tractor has a tiny window hidden that you cannot tell where the level is at.

Nice tread. Enjoying the progress.

 

[armylifer]

Bill, since you have a downloaded Version of the manual you may be able to use Google translate to make an English version. It may only do one page at a time but if it works it may be worth your time.

 

[Lil Foot]

I have looked into that. Manual is 64 pages long. It will translate paragraphs, phrases, or individual words, but it fails if there are any drawings or charts on the page.

I think the only way to do it would be to duplicate the manual, then remove or white-out all of the writing that needed translation, saving the drawings & charts. Then go back to the Norwegian version, copy a title, paragraph, phrase or individual word, and then paste it in the appropriate place in the duplicated, blanked-out manual. That seems to work when there is nothing but text on a page, but fails when there is a drawing or chart.
Example:
1st pic is a screenshot of a troubleshooting chart from the manual, text will easily copy to translator
2nd pic is a screenshot from the translator, with no chart lines
This would require blanking out all of the text in the duplicate manual, and then tediously figuring out what phrases or words go in each box, and pasting them in place.
It can be done, but man, that seems like a tremendous amount of work.
There are 27 boxes & 2 titles in just that one chart.
Now picture doing the hydraulic or electrical schematics, pics 3 & 4.
If I had the time....

 

[armylifer]

I have looked into that. Manual is 64 pages long. It will translate paragraphs, phrases, or individual words, but it fails if there are any drawings or charts on the page.

I think the only way to do it would be to duplicate the manual, then remove or white-out all of the writing that needed translation, saving the drawings & charts. Then go back to the Norwegian version, copy a title, paragraph, phrase or individual word, and then paste it in the appropriate place in the duplicated, blanked-out manual. That seems to work when there is nothing but text on a page, but fails when there is a drawing or chart.
Example:
1st pic is a screenshot of a troubleshooting chart from the manual, text will easily copy to translator
2nd pic is a screenshot from the translator, with no chart lines
This would require blanking out all of the text in the duplicate manual, and then tediously figuring out what phrases or words go in each box, and pasting them in place.
It can be done, but man, that seems like a tremendous amount of work.
There are 27 boxes & 2 titles in just that one chart.
Now picture doing the hydraulic or electrical schematics, pics 3 & 4.
If I had the time....

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Yeah, that has a lot more diagrams in it than I would have imagined. It may be worthwhile to do it a little at a Time each day. In a few months or so you would have a useful manual.

 

[JohnDB]

Yeah, that has a lot more diagrams in it than I would have imagined. It may be worthwhile to do it a little at a Time each day. In a few months or so you would have a useful manual.

I translated a 14 page hay mower owner's manual from french to english, took about 4 hours solid, well worth the effort for the information obtained. I didn't have to translate diagrams though.

(Used an on-line pdf transcription tool to convert the PDF images of french words to french text, then Google translate to get to english text and pasting into a Word document. Cut and pasted the images too. You get into a routine. That was the 4 hours to get something useful to me. Then about another 6 hours tidying up the document, checking translation, making links work to make it into a usable PDF for others.)

 

[Lil Foot]

Signed up on this forum https://www.tractorforum.com because the have a Mitsubishi section.
Got help almost immediately with questions I had about the excavator engine.
They also gave me a link to another online translator that they say works great for manuals with charts & diagrams. https://translate.yandex.com/ocr

I also got a Howdy from our buddy SideCarFlip, he's an old hand over there.

 

[armylifer]

Signed up on this forum https://www.tractorforum.com because the have a Mitsubishi section.
Got help almost immediately with questions I had about the excavator engine.
They also gave me a link to another online translator that they say works great for manuals with charts & diagrams. https://translate.yandex.com/ocr

I also got a Howdy from our buddy SideCarFlip, he's an old hand over there.

Let me know how that translator works for you. I just tried it on a couple .pdf flyers for a parade and none of the text translated from English to Korean. All the text just disappeared.

As for Sidecar Flip, you can also find him on the S&W forum.

 

[Ikc1990]

If you are like me if you have time to google translate you probably should just say screw it and learn another language lol

 

[RCW]

I also got a Howdy from our buddy SideCarFlip, he's an old hand over there.

Do you know Flip has not one, but two M9000 tractors?!?!?

 

[edritchey]

I think it is about this size, but with steel tracks. (and not this new)
View attachment 62453

That is one awesome looking little machine. I'd love to have one like that do you know what it weighs?

 

[Lil Foot]

That is one awesome looking little machine. I'd love to have one like that do you know what it weighs?

Thanks!
According to the manual & everything I can find, 1.39 tons dry, with rubber tracks, & more with the steel tracks.

 

[Lil Foot]

Today I found the block drain & flushed the block.
I also replaced (9) missing bolts, drilled out & removed (5) broken off bolts. Somebody who worked on it in the past apparently had a bad habit of losing the original metric bolts, and then trying to replace them with SAE, and just running them in until they jammed or broke off.

I figured out the lock arrangement that allows you to center up, then lock in place the left hand stick, to prevent you from bumping the stick as you get in/out.

There is also a feature that allows you to unlatch & flip the whole left stick assembly back & down, for lots of clearance while getting in/out.
I cannot for the life of me figure out how you are supposed to unlatch it, except for poking a catch inside the stick tower with a long screwdriver. It then easily folds, and readily re-latches in the upright position when you lift it. It doesn't look like anything is missing or altered, so I'm baffled at this point.
The adventure continues.

 

[Lil Foot]

Got an e-mail from BIL, he found the original receipt from purchasing the manual for the Hanix.
He contacted them about buying another copy, but since he had already paid for it once, they sent him a PDF copy for free, which he then forwarded to me.
It is a parts manual, very clear, detailed & complete, except for no wiring schematic.
In the first 5 minutes, I figured out the problem with folding the left hand stick tower.
There is a 3mm roll pin that keys the latch to a lever that has sheared off flush, and it was so dirty you could not see there was a pin there. Should have been as simple as driving the sheared pin out & driving in a new one, but no.
I broke two punches trying to drive it out in situ, so I disassembled the whole thing to get the shaft out. Then after lots of PBB, heating, & cooling, I broke two more punches, and bent two more. Neither a BFH or 12ton press would budge it, so I finally gave up and just made a new shaft. (#76)
Hopefully I will put it back together today, and get back to the cooling & fuel systems again.

 

[Lil Foot]

Found a toob video of the same machine as mine, digging out a large stump.
Operator isn't real good, keeps trying to pull the stump with the boom & stick, rather than utilizing the bucket curl.
Nice to see another one is still out there digging.

 

[torch]

From my limited experience, I think it would have been easier on the machine if he had dug out another bucket width away from the stumps all the way around and dug a little deeper before trying to pull them out. That way he would have been cutting the roots where they were a little smaller diameter instead of trying to tear them out like pulling a weed.

I forget where I read it, but someone on the internet once pointed out that the roots don't hold the stump in the ground -- the dirt surrounding the roots does. Once you get rid of the dirt, the stump will follow.

 

[Lil Foot]

From my limited experience, I think it would have been easier on the machine if he had dug out another bucket width away from the stumps all the way around and dug a little deeper before trying to pull them out. That way he would have been cutting the roots where they were a little smaller diameter instead of trying to tear them out like pulling a weed.

I forget where I read it, but someone on the internet once pointed out that the roots don't hold the stump in the ground -- the dirt surrounding the roots does. Once you get rid of the dirt, the stump will follow.

Narrower bucket helps also if you are trying to break or cut roots, but wider bucket moves more dirt.

 

[Lil Foot]

Installed the new shaft in the LH tower, reassembled everything, and it now works flawlessly.
Sure is nice being able to make parts for extinct machines.
The shaft itself was easy, as was drilling/reaming the roll pin holes, the only touchy part was getting the angle orientation between the two pin holes correct. Kind of a PITA, with the seized/broken pin plugging up one hole, but I had enough tooling to get it done.

 

[torch]

Too bad you made a new one. Sounds like the old one would have been a great excuse to get a wire EDM past the bride

 

[Lil Foot]

Too bad you made a new one. Sounds like the old one would have been a great excuse to get a wire EDM past the bride

Yup, been wanting something like this for years:

Amazon.com

It wasn't part of my regular duties, but I used to regularly get calls to go out to the main shop to burn out broken 0-80 taps. Nobody else had the patience.