The rear axle seals are leaking on my GR2100. It already had the Kubota transmission "upgrade" years ago when they had a recall. My question is about what parts to order. I see a transmission kit that includes the housing. Is this the same as the upgrade? If yes, then I already have the "new" housing. Can I just order the seals? Can the seals be changed by removing the wheel hubs or does the transmission need to be split?
GR2100 Rear Axle Seal Leak
- Thread starter tbk5
- Start date
BX25D Rookie
Member
Equipment
2011 BX25D, Bro-Tek Skid Plates, Bxpanded Tooth Bar & Toolbox, LED Headlights
I just took a quick look at the exploded view for your tractor on the Kubota website.
Check out that website feature if you haven't used it before.
apps.kubotausa.com
Type in your model number and find what you are looking for.
(it's a sub group under the transmission section)
Write the part number on a scrap of paper.
Then go to Messicks web site and put the part number in the Kubota part number search box. That will tell you if they have it and how much.
It appears the rear axle seals are external. Kubota part number 09500-25408
(id # 050 in the exploded view)
Messicks has them in stock for $6.76 each plus shipping.
So you should be able to change them after removing the wheel hubs.
Use a seal puller for removing the old seals.
A slide hammer with a sheet metal screw on the tip should work as well.
Don't mar/nick the axle shafts when removing the old seals.
Wrap thin shim stock ( 0.002" thick or so ) around the axle covering the splines when you slide the new seals onto the axle shafts. Make sure the shim stock has no burrs.
The shim stock will protect the seal lips from damage caused by sliding over the splines.
Find a suitable piece of tubing or pipe for a seal driver. PVC should work.
i would likely do one side at a time, so I could raise one rear wheel for minimizing rear axle fluid loss while the seal was removed.
I've never seen a GR2100 rear axle in person, but I sure would pull a hub and look before I even thought about paying someone to do that job.
Let us know how it turns out!
Check out that website feature if you haven't used it before.
Kubota Tractor Corporation - Illustrated Parts List
- K-PAD - Parts Lists - Illustrated Parts Lists - diagrams
(it's a sub group under the transmission section)
Write the part number on a scrap of paper.
Then go to Messicks web site and put the part number in the Kubota part number search box. That will tell you if they have it and how much.
It appears the rear axle seals are external. Kubota part number 09500-25408
(id # 050 in the exploded view)
Messicks has them in stock for $6.76 each plus shipping.
So you should be able to change them after removing the wheel hubs.
Use a seal puller for removing the old seals.
A slide hammer with a sheet metal screw on the tip should work as well.
Don't mar/nick the axle shafts when removing the old seals.
Wrap thin shim stock ( 0.002" thick or so ) around the axle covering the splines when you slide the new seals onto the axle shafts. Make sure the shim stock has no burrs.
The shim stock will protect the seal lips from damage caused by sliding over the splines.
Find a suitable piece of tubing or pipe for a seal driver. PVC should work.
i would likely do one side at a time, so I could raise one rear wheel for minimizing rear axle fluid loss while the seal was removed.
I've never seen a GR2100 rear axle in person, but I sure would pull a hub and look before I even thought about paying someone to do that job.
Let us know how it turns out!
Thank you. I am familiar with Messicks and will call them. Sadly, I've gotten pretty good at taking the 2100 apart. I don't have to worry about the fluid-it's already leaked out. I'll take the wheel off to inspect but it will be a while before I'll have the time to tear it down if that is needed.
Given what I have read about the dealer cost of repair vs the value, I'll try it myself. if it doesn't work out, then the engine may become the basis for a nice generator....
Given what I have read about the dealer cost of repair vs the value, I'll try it myself. if it doesn't work out, then the engine may become the basis for a nice generator....
Hi I have the same issue with my (2006) GR2100G, The right rear axle seal is leaking. You said" A slide hammer with a sheet metal screw on the tip should work as well "
So am I suppose to screw the sheet metal screws into the metal race of the rubber seal and use the slide hammer to pull it out?
Thanks Mike
So am I suppose to screw the sheet metal screws into the metal race of the rubber seal and use the slide hammer to pull it out?
Thanks Mike
usually on the 2100's there is no bearing, so the bushing is normally trashed--if you catch it soon enough it won't eat up the housing. If it does eat into the housing, you have to replace the hou$ing too.
Russell King
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
i don't remember but does the 2100 transmission case have a lip that prevents the seal from coming out externally?
Don't be fooled by the parts break down. The whole trans axle case needs to be split to replace the axle rear seals. So one axle leak going to cost a whole trans axle rebuild?
Why do design engineers make the big bucks?
Why do design engineers make the big bucks?
I got the new seal and realized I need to split the case, so I was going to do the $354.00 upgrade. I'm glad I pulled the screen because the left rear wheel wasn't turning. Pieces of the clutch were caked in the screen. Two new clutches are almost $800.00 WTF? I'm not spending that.
CHEAP FIX... I already had the seal so I cut a 2 inch pipe, just wide enough to put the seal in, got a large washer to cover the outboard side of the seal Used JB weld Marine to seal it and attach it to the outside flange of the leaking seal.....AND IT WORKED, no more leak and 3 wheel drive cheap!!! Mower runs and works great just wider RH turns than LH because the RH wheel is always turning.
kubotafreak
Well-known member
Equipment
GRAND l6060, L3560, B6100, gr2100, tg 1860, g1800, g1900, g2160
LOL May be a while I have all the parts-just need some free time to work on it..
whitetiger
Moderator
Staff member
Equipment
Kubota tech..BX2370, RCK60, B7100HST, RTV900 w plow, Ford 1100 FWA
The part about using a slide hammer to remove the seal was posted by someone who has never seen the rear axle of a GR and does not have a clue as to servicing them.
The seal sets in a groove and can only be accessed by separating the housings.
Well, I finally got around to rebuilding the the GR2100 transmission, three times!
Yes, the case has a lip to keep the seal in. So the transmission has to come apart to change the axle seals. The seals sit inside a metal carrier. It turned out to be a good thing in my case. (no pun intended) The RH shaft drive was worn and about to split. It looks like the oil passage was blocked with sealer. This must have been from the warranty recall work done at Kubota (around 200 hours ???) when the axles first started leaking. That was the repair that udated the axle from plastic bushings to bearings. Fortunately all the parts (axles, drive shaft, bearings, etc. come with the T/M kit.
The first time, I had everything apart, cleaned, mostly fitted. I did not have every part in when I test fitted. My bad. I honestly did not expect so many problems with the brand new transmission case. The Bevel Gear from the HST unit did NOT fit through the transmission case. I had to clean off all the gasket maker and hone out the opening in the case for the gear. I also had to (slowly) file open up the hole for the Intermediate Shaft. They were both too tight-the case halves would not mate. Both times I wasted a lot of time and gasket material. I was using the Permatex Anaerobic sealer.
The second time, I got it back together, let it cure for two days, then filler her up. A LEAK. AHHHHH. I was worried about it leaking. The casting for the tramsmission case was poor. I had to take it all apart again. I cleaned off the gasket again. The permatex gasket was hard--plastic-like. It was reletively easy to clean off. This time, I also used brake cleaner to make sure all traces of oil were removed.
Third time-I used a fine arkansas sharpening stone (new, long, flat) to polish all the rough mating surfaces on the transmission housing. I also ordered the Kubota gasket maker. I reassembled and let it cure three days. Filled her up. I saw a minor leak overnight (a 2in spot on the floor). I attributed it to spillage when filling. I mowed all looked good. It has sat for a week. NO LEAKS.
My wife is calling it the zipper tractor because of how easily I can get it undressed. I am hoping it will last this time. I use it to cut and collect ~1 acre of bermuda grass around the house. When it runs, it is a nice mower. It only has 650 hours. I have the bagger and snow blower too. The people that bought our house in MA did not think they needed a snowblower. Ha. But they were smart not to buy the GR. It broke down six months later. The blower is on a moving dolly. If there is any chance of snow in the forecast, I wheel it out as face it north as a totem to ward off the snow god.
Tricks, comments, and mods:
I removed the T/M beam with glide steer cables attached as a unit. (Remove cover, unhook springs, remove 4 bolts.) This allowed me to avoid having to adjust the glide steer linkage when I put everything back together. Those clips are a pain in the blank to remove/install. Or, I just don't have a clue how to use them--likely.
I cut drinking straws to lenght to match the adjustments for the PTO linkage. Much easier than getting a caliper in there to measure.
I added a fuel shut valve before the first fuel filter. (5/16") This will make it easier when I change the filters.
The Kubota gasket maket is an unobtainium (proprietary??) three bond product. I could not find a direct source. At Kubota, it is, of course, twice the price of Permatex 51813 but I found it thicker and easier to work with than the permatex.
I could not figure out how to use the string trick to make sure the oil passage way was clear. When I had it assembled, I blew compressed air through the vent tube. It exited through the oil filler tube opening. So, finfers crossed that the passage is open.
I wrapped hydraulic hoses that looked like they might rub with plastic wire loom and zip tied them.
I got a new tool for the job-an electronic 3/8" torque wrench. The T/M bolts are only tightened to 5.8 to 6.5 ft-lbs. I had nothing that calibrated that low. Another thing to hang by the bench.
I added a weather tight cigarette light ciruit on the rear fender. I will use it for when I pull the sprayer that runs on 12V or charge my phone while I mow.
Oddly enough, I can't wait for the weekend to mow with it....
Yes, the case has a lip to keep the seal in. So the transmission has to come apart to change the axle seals. The seals sit inside a metal carrier. It turned out to be a good thing in my case. (no pun intended) The RH shaft drive was worn and about to split. It looks like the oil passage was blocked with sealer. This must have been from the warranty recall work done at Kubota (around 200 hours ???) when the axles first started leaking. That was the repair that udated the axle from plastic bushings to bearings. Fortunately all the parts (axles, drive shaft, bearings, etc. come with the T/M kit.
The first time, I had everything apart, cleaned, mostly fitted. I did not have every part in when I test fitted. My bad. I honestly did not expect so many problems with the brand new transmission case. The Bevel Gear from the HST unit did NOT fit through the transmission case. I had to clean off all the gasket maker and hone out the opening in the case for the gear. I also had to (slowly) file open up the hole for the Intermediate Shaft. They were both too tight-the case halves would not mate. Both times I wasted a lot of time and gasket material. I was using the Permatex Anaerobic sealer.
The second time, I got it back together, let it cure for two days, then filler her up. A LEAK. AHHHHH. I was worried about it leaking. The casting for the tramsmission case was poor. I had to take it all apart again. I cleaned off the gasket again. The permatex gasket was hard--plastic-like. It was reletively easy to clean off. This time, I also used brake cleaner to make sure all traces of oil were removed.
Third time-I used a fine arkansas sharpening stone (new, long, flat) to polish all the rough mating surfaces on the transmission housing. I also ordered the Kubota gasket maker. I reassembled and let it cure three days. Filled her up. I saw a minor leak overnight (a 2in spot on the floor). I attributed it to spillage when filling. I mowed all looked good. It has sat for a week. NO LEAKS.
My wife is calling it the zipper tractor because of how easily I can get it undressed. I am hoping it will last this time. I use it to cut and collect ~1 acre of bermuda grass around the house. When it runs, it is a nice mower. It only has 650 hours. I have the bagger and snow blower too. The people that bought our house in MA did not think they needed a snowblower. Ha. But they were smart not to buy the GR. It broke down six months later. The blower is on a moving dolly. If there is any chance of snow in the forecast, I wheel it out as face it north as a totem to ward off the snow god.
Tricks, comments, and mods:
I removed the T/M beam with glide steer cables attached as a unit. (Remove cover, unhook springs, remove 4 bolts.) This allowed me to avoid having to adjust the glide steer linkage when I put everything back together. Those clips are a pain in the blank to remove/install. Or, I just don't have a clue how to use them--likely.
I cut drinking straws to lenght to match the adjustments for the PTO linkage. Much easier than getting a caliper in there to measure.
I added a fuel shut valve before the first fuel filter. (5/16") This will make it easier when I change the filters.
The Kubota gasket maket is an unobtainium (proprietary??) three bond product. I could not find a direct source. At Kubota, it is, of course, twice the price of Permatex 51813 but I found it thicker and easier to work with than the permatex.
I could not figure out how to use the string trick to make sure the oil passage way was clear. When I had it assembled, I blew compressed air through the vent tube. It exited through the oil filler tube opening. So, finfers crossed that the passage is open.
I wrapped hydraulic hoses that looked like they might rub with plastic wire loom and zip tied them.
I got a new tool for the job-an electronic 3/8" torque wrench. The T/M bolts are only tightened to 5.8 to 6.5 ft-lbs. I had nothing that calibrated that low. Another thing to hang by the bench.
I added a weather tight cigarette light ciruit on the rear fender. I will use it for when I pull the sprayer that runs on 12V or charge my phone while I mow.
Oddly enough, I can't wait for the weekend to mow with it....
That mower and the B3350 share one thing in common. They're quite famous, for different things, but if you did a google search you'd see people griping about one or two issues, thousands of times.
I hated them for the customers who spent a lot of money on them. I hated working on them because (A) the flat rate to do the job wasn't sufficient and (B) it never failed, you'd fix the customer complaint and another problem with the same area would pop up at some point, resulting in a re-work (and we often did them for free).
the bushings in the case, they have tabs on them that are supposed to line up with a notch in the case. If you don't like em up perfectly the case won't bolt together. Sounds like you have that under control, however.
If I had that mower with those issues, I'd have it running good enough and I'd have it on the marketplace within seconds of verfiying it isn't leaking and that it is working normally. There's people that will pay good money for them, but I ain't one of them. I'll take good money for them though (meaning you'd have to pay me to take them).
I hated them for the customers who spent a lot of money on them. I hated working on them because (A) the flat rate to do the job wasn't sufficient and (B) it never failed, you'd fix the customer complaint and another problem with the same area would pop up at some point, resulting in a re-work (and we often did them for free).
the bushings in the case, they have tabs on them that are supposed to line up with a notch in the case. If you don't like em up perfectly the case won't bolt together. Sounds like you have that under control, however.
If I had that mower with those issues, I'd have it running good enough and I'd have it on the marketplace within seconds of verfiying it isn't leaking and that it is working normally. There's people that will pay good money for them, but I ain't one of them. I'll take good money for them though (meaning you'd have to pay me to take them).
I had no issues with the bushings. My problems were with case openings that were not open enough and pitting in the casting along the mating surfaces.
I have had it since the 2nd year they came out. They wasn't much to google then. I am thinking of selling it and using the proceeds to get a bagger for the ZD1211 I have. I was stunned to see a bunch of them on tractorhouse and faceplant for ~$4500, without any attachments. I have the bagger that works great. I used it now just for the bermuda grass around the house where I remove clippings. The snowblower did a great job when I lived up north.
I have had it since the 2nd year they came out. They wasn't much to google then. I am thinking of selling it and using the proceeds to get a bagger for the ZD1211 I have. I was stunned to see a bunch of them on tractorhouse and faceplant for ~$4500, without any attachments. I have the bagger that works great. I used it now just for the bermuda grass around the house where I remove clippings. The snowblower did a great job when I lived up north.