Got a couple of quotes today

[Roknstevo]

The main thing is that it's your money, get the tractor that YOU want!! Do NOT settle for what they have in stock!! Tractors cost so much but a few extra $$$ can mean the difference from liking your tractor and LOVING your tractor.

A few things that you might not know... the LX models were (up until a few years ago) were called "B" models. Sorry if you knew that already. LX / B are lighter in weight which if driving on the lawn - might - cause less problems. Heavier tractor usually puts more traction to the ground which could tear up the grass more.

Thanks

 

[fried1765]

Thanks

True.....but....
Tractors are for work!
Grass is for mowing!

 

[Runs With Scissors]

I am also new to tractors and I should have asked questions in regards to hydraulics.

When I ordered mine, I thought that "rear remotes" could be controlled with a thumb button, like the "front 3rd function valve" . This is not the case however.

The "rear remotes" have levers on the right side of the drivers seat to control them.

I ordered it with 3 "rear remotes" thinking that I could just plug hoses into it and wire up a button to control it. Also not the case.

The reason I bring this up is because I have not yet had any need for the "rear remotes", yet I desperately need a 3rd function switch for my Hydraulic Thumb project for the backhoe.

Had I known the difference, I would have only ordered 1 set of rear remotes for that "just in case" scenario.

 

[B737]

I am also new to tractors and I should have asked questions in regards to hydraulics.

When I ordered mine, I thought that "rear remotes" could be controlled with a thumb button, like the "front 3rd function valve" . This is not the case however.

The "rear remotes" have levers on the right side of the drivers seat to control them.

I ordered it with 3 "rear remotes" thinking that I could just plug hoses into it and wire up a button to control it. Also not the case.

The reason I bring this up is because I have not yet had any need for the "rear remotes", yet I desperately need a 3rd function switch for my Hydraulic Thumb project for the backhoe.

Had I known the difference, I would have only ordered 1 set of rear remotes for that "just in case" scenario.

dude, even a cursory amount of due diligence, wow.

 

[PaulL]

I am also new to tractors and I should have asked questions in regards to hydraulics.

When I ordered mine, I thought that "rear remotes" could be controlled with a thumb button, like the "front 3rd function valve" . This is not the case however.

The "rear remotes" have levers on the right side of the drivers seat to control them.

I ordered it with 3 "rear remotes" thinking that I could just plug hoses into it and wire up a button to control it. Also not the case.

The reason I bring this up is because I have not yet had any need for the "rear remotes", yet I desperately need a 3rd function switch for my Hydraulic Thumb project for the backhoe.

Had I known the difference, I would have only ordered 1 set of rear remotes for that "just in case" scenario.

Yes, there are a few people on here who strongly recommend rear remotes. And for their use it totally makes sense - if you're running rear implements that need hydraulic flow, or you're running a top and tilt kit (more common if you've got a cabbed tractor so you can't lean over the back and manually adjust, and if you're doing a lot of driveway maintenance or using a rear blade for snow work).

In my view for many people with a smaller tractor and doing weekend type work, rear remotes aren't necessary. I've never had them and never missed them (of course, I may just not know what I'm missing). Advice received online should always be read with an eye to whether your use matches that of the person giving the advice.

 

[Farmersfarmer]

I will argue that maintaining a steady ground speed with a HST and cruise control is just as easy as a DT tractor.

Actually not the case in my experience and it is has to do with implements that work soil in the field that impose variable resistance. Because the HST does not possess equal torque with DT, what appears as equal is not actually the case. So the argument that HST with CC matches the DT is not about "easy" but rather truly equal in context.

I've farmed since I was old enough to reach the controls and the treadle pedal/cruise control applications are simply not the industry standard in agricultural settings. This can actually be visualized when using planters or seeders, drills. Variability can be observed at points along the path of such implements and while this may not matter in small applications, large tract farming makes an HST with CC undesirable.

The HST's features seem quite suitable for a chore tractor or home gardens, but the application is not equal in all instances for the reasons noted. The tractors being discussed in this thread would certainly not constitute large-scale considerations that are normally handled by JD 9620s or 9-640s anyway, so it's really of little consequence for the prospective buyer who made the original post. My point was that the two tractors are simply not equal in the regard mentioned. Whether it matters to the buyer may be irrelevant.

I will argue that maintaining a steady ground speed with a HST and cruise control is just as easy as a DT tractor.

 

[jyoutz]

Actually not the case in my experience and it is has to do with implements that work soil in the field that impose variable resistance. Because the HST does not possess equal torque with DT, what appears as equal is not actually the case. So the argument that HST with CC matches the DT is not about "easy" but rather truly equal in context.

I've farmed since I was old enough to reach the controls and the treadle pedal/cruise control applications are simply not the industry standard in agricultural settings. This can actually be visualized when using planters or seeders, drills. Variability can be observed at points along the path of such implements and while this may not matter in small applications, large tract farming makes an HST with CC undesirable.

The HST's features seem quite suitable for a chore tractor or home gardens, but the application is not equal in all instances for the reasons noted. The tractors being discussed in this thread would certainly not constitute large-scale considerations that are normally handled by JD 9620s or 9-640s anyway, so it's really of little consequence for the prospective buyer who made the original post. My point was that the two tractors are simply not equal in the regard mentioned. Whether it matters to the buyer may be irrelevant.

I said equal for mowing, nothing about ground engagement. A tractor with sufficient pto hp for the job should be able to hold a steady ground speed with cruise control.

 

[Farmersfarmer]

I said equal for mowing, nothing about ground engagement. A tractor with sufficient pto hp for the job should be able to hold a steady ground speed with cruise control.

This was your original response and I see no mention of "mowing." - I will argue that maintaining a steady ground speed with a HST and cruise control is just as easy as a DT tractor."

Not interested at all in some type of debate. I farm for a living. I was farming long before all the fancy treadle peddles and cruise control came along, which in my opinion was aimed at put tractors into the hands of folks who wanted to add them to their collection of man toys and add them to the average lot owner's toolbox to be blunt on the topic. My comments are my opinions based upon more than 50 years experience using ag equipment to farm nearly 3200 total acres as part of a generational farming business.

If your opinions differ, then it merely provides members and readers a broader perspective and alternative view.

 

[jyoutz]

This was your original response and I see no mention of "mowing." - I will argue that maintaining a steady ground speed with a HST and cruise control is just as easy as a DT tractor."

Not interested at all in some type of debate. I farm for a living. I was farming long before all the fancy treadle peddles and cruise control came along, which in my opinion was aimed at put tractors into the hands of folks who wanted to add them to their collection of man toys and add them to the average lot owner's toolbox to be blunt on the topic. My comments are my opinions based upon more than 50 years experience using ag equipment to farm nearly 3200 total acres as part of a generational farming business.

If your opinions differ, then it merely provides members and readers a broader perspective and alternative view.

Agree. We all have our preferences. My response was in the context of the previous discussion about mowing. I know that some of us do this and I have a plow, but most people on this forum aren’t plowing fields with their small tractor.

 

[PoTreeBoy]

I am also new to tractors and I should have asked questions in regards to hydraulics.

When I ordered mine, I thought that "rear remotes" could be controlled with a thumb button, like the "front 3rd function valve" . This is not the case however.

The "rear remotes" have levers on the right side of the drivers seat to control them.

I ordered it with 3 "rear remotes" thinking that I could just plug hoses into it and wire up a button to control it. Also not the case.

The reason I bring this up is because I have not yet had any need for the "rear remotes", yet I desperately need a 3rd function switch for my Hydraulic Thumb project for the backhoe.

Had I known the difference, I would have only ordered 1 set of rear remotes for that "just in case" scenario.

The best way to power a hydraulic thumb is with a valve and control on the backhoe itself. What model backhoe do you have? There may be an OEM kit to add that. There are DIY ways also. Most thumbs are controlled with a foot pedal, not a button. There's a thread on here about adding one. I contemplated adding a button-controlled diverter valve on mine, but I'll probably go the foot control if I convert my thumb. @TheOldHokie is very hydraulically knowledgeable and said I'd regret the button option.

 

[TheOldHokie]

The best way to power a hydraulic thumb is with a valve and control on the backhoe itself. What model backhoe do you have? There may be an OEM kit to add that. There are DIY ways also. Most thumbs are controlled with a foot pedal, not a button. There's a thread on here about adding one. I contemplated adding a button-controlled diverter valve on mine, but I'll probably go the foot control if I convert my thumb. @TheOldHokie is very hydraulically knowledgeable and said I'd regret the button option.

I dont think I said that. I might have said use a directional valve instead of a diverter valve but switch activation seems optimal.

Dan

 

[PoTreeBoy]

I dont think I said that. I might have said use a directional valve instead of a diverter valve but switch activation seems optimal.

Dan

I must have misunderstood. With the diverter you'd have one button and hold it down while moving the joystick as if curling the bucket to control the thumb. With a 4-way valve you'd have two buttons, one to open and one to close the thumb. Right?

 

[TheOldHokie]

I must have misunderstood. With the diverter you'd have one button and hold it down while moving the joystick as if curling the bucket to control the thumb. With a 4-way valve you'd have two buttons, one to open and one to close the thumb. Right?

Yes. The 4 way valve can be mounted anywhere handy on the hoe and plumbed into the backhoe supply circuit directly ahead of the inlet on the backhoe valve. As "they" say a "true" third function.

Dan

 

[PaulL]

I must have misunderstood. With the diverter you'd have one button and hold it down while moving the joystick as if curling the bucket to control the thumb. With a 4-way valve you'd have two buttons, one to open and one to close the thumb. Right?

The two buttons are typically a rocker switch. So you rock your thumb left to open, right to close (or whatever). At least that's how it works for the bucket tilt on Dad's Takeuchi digger.