My LX2610 with loader and backhoe will just squeeze onto my 18ft landscape trailer if I swing the backhoe to one side. If I have just the loader and my flail mower it fits nicely. I think you would need 20' plus if you plan on a large rear implement like a brush mower.
Got a couple of quotes today
- Thread starter Roknstevo
- Start date
Do either or both have SSQA? If you're getting a loader, you'll eventually want it. If those are your only options, I'd want HST with independent PTO. What size mower are you looking at, 5'?
Skid Steer Quick Attach, a standard for connecting implements to the front of the loader, for example a bucket.
16’ sorta fits… but leaves no room for activity’s. And the cutter hangs off about 3’. If the toolbox wasn’t mounted on the deck, it would be much better.
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Skid steer quick attach. It's a quick attach bracket on the front of the loader, to which you attach your bucket, your forks, your grapple etc. It's an industry standard for light equipment attaches, and will let you rent or borrow attachments you might not buy. Since it's a common attachment there are a lot of inexpensive loader attachments you can buy - whereas if you go with a proprietary attach system you're often locked into only one or a couple of brands of implement.
Personally I ended up with the old Kubota pin-on quick attach. They're hard to get now, but are lighter (less impact on load capacity), and in NZ there really aren't a lot of light weight skid steer attach implements around, so I wasn't going to be borrowing/renting anyway. I just had my forks modified to fit.
3rd function is an extra hydraulic circuit on your front end loader. It is usually used to run a grapple - so lets you open and close the grapple. To do this you need that extra hydraulic circuit plumbed on the tractor, and out on the loader arms so the grapple can plug in. And a switch on your loader joystick to operate that function. If you're not getting a grapple you probably don't need it, and it costs about the same to install it later as to install it now - so you can just get it when you need it.
Rear remotes are a set of hydraulic outlets on the rear of your tractor, used to run hydraulic implements. On a smaller machine these would usually be used for top and tilt on your rear blade or box blade. Those who do a lot of gravel maintenance love them. I don't do a lot of gravel maintenance and find most implement adjustments I need I can do just by leaning over the back and turning the top link. Again, I wouldn't personally install them unless you definitely have a need - you can install them later if it turns out you need them. Having said that, I think rear remotes are cheaper to install at time of purchase, so if you're likely to need them may as well get them now.
3rd Function is needed to have hydraulics at the loader. For example you want to run a grapple or something else up front. On mine in Sept 2021 it was $835.00 to have it added. For me since I got the tractor to use a grapple it was money well spent.
Rear remotes On the LX you can get 2 on the L2501 I THINK you can 3 Cheaper if you get them with the tractor than it is to add them later. HOWEVER they are expensive and you can get aftermarket "kits" from places such as Summit hydraulics for a lot less. The drawback is the aftermarket ones are not as "neat & Tidy" for the placement of the controls as the factory ones. I have the factory spring center for the 1st one and float detent for the 2nd one Again in Sept '21 they cost a total of $1,266.00 for both of them. I use them for a top 'n tilt kit I made for my quick hitch.
Attached is a photo of what a top 'n tilt kit looks like
The Skid Steer quick attach on the loader is standard with an LX it has 2 levers that allow you to remove the bucket and install another implement such as a grapple.
Last comment I do not know how big of a hurry you are for the tractor but mine I ordered 9/10/2021 and it was delivered on 12/10/2021. The supply of tractors is much better at the dealers around here in Michigan. I would think that that also would apply nationwide. Tractors are expensive no sense in making do with something that "will work" verses getting a tractor that has the features and equipment you "want/need".
I haul mine with a 16' trailer I have to hang the bucket over the tongue but the back blade or the stump grinder fit on it. If I had a brush hog the trailer would be too short. In my case because I store the trailer with my track day car on it during the winter indoors I wanted a 16' instead of 18 or 20' so it fit in the place I had for it in the barn.
Attachments
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adding another vote for L series but regardless to get an HST no matter what
20', unless you want it to look like Matts : )
and here is 22'
Lol. Hey now… that 16’ got everything home in one trip!adding another vote for L series but regardless to get an HST no matter what
20', unless you want it to look like Matts : )
and here is 22'
Well for me it would depend on whether it's going to be used primarily for chores or farming. HSTs are great for chore work, despite the shuttle shift feature of the DT. The greatest advantage of a DT is its ability to operate at extremely steady speeds in the field. HSTs are harder to maintain that same advantage. DTs also generally produce more torque than HSTs.
As you already know, the SU is the stripped down model in the LX compact series, so if your quotes are within $1k of each other, I'd scrutinize it very closely against the L2501 for differences in all of the features if those features are key to the all the applications you need in a single tractor. Kubota made the SU to bridge the gaps in performance between the L and B series and yet hit the right price point, so again the SU is going to be the bare bones model in the LX series. The LX can utilize the larger tires so if working space is not an issue, you can get a boost in that regard if you work a considerable parcel of land with it. So overall for me it would be application first and foremost, then a closer look at what you're getting for your money. It's basically a choice between two base models and buying the one you actually need vs. the one you want. A tractor should never constitute anything more than just a tool and I've always steered clear of bells and whistles that add to the bottom line but rarely get used.
Lastly, you don't mention whether you've had a DT before. You might well expect that they're not all that popular since all the fancy treadle, twin-touch pedals and cruise control made their way into the features of a tractor. Basic DT is all I've ever used but they take some time behind the wheel before things get smooth. Just something to consider.
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jyoutz
Well-known member
Equipment
MX6000 HST open station, FEL, 6’ cutter, forks, 8’ rear blade, 7’ cultivator
I will argue that maintaining a steady ground speed with a HST and cruise control is just as easy as a DT tractor.
I use a 20’ trailer for my B2650, which is dimensionally the same as an LX2610. If I often need my flail mower (similar size and shape as a tiller) and my grader scraper at the same time, and it fits perfect. I’ll back on with the grader, unhook it clear at the front, drive back off and hook on to the flail mower. Drive on forward, which balances my load really well, and leaves me about 8” of spare room on the deck.
And, HST for either of those machines. All. Day. Long…. They’re both great, but each is better at different things. If you’re more into mowing, go LX. If you’re more about the digging, dragging, and loader, the L wins.
And, HST for either of those machines. All. Day. Long…. They’re both great, but each is better at different things. If you’re more into mowing, go LX. If you’re more about the digging, dragging, and loader, the L wins.
The dealer is trying to sell the units he has trouble selling,those are both at the bottom end of the models
Elliott in GA
Well-known member
Equipment
LX 2610SU w/535,LP RCR1860,FDR1660,SGC0554,FSP500, DD BBX60005
Just to provide a different perspective, an LX 2610 SU is not some bare bones tractor that only the most price conscious would choose. The LX SU lacks the better seat (has the same seat as an L), cruise control, mid-PTO and tilt steering wheel. For myself and I am sure many others, except for the better seat (which can be purchased and installed on the SU with no modifications) I have no interest or use for the other features (cruise control can also be added to the SU). The SU does come with larger tires (same size as the L) than the regular LX, and I do appreciate the extra traction. You can option the larger tires on the regular LX, but then you cannot use a mower deck (one of the purposes of the mid-PTO). The LX SU does have the loader stick at your hip (versus the L's out in front) and the flatter floor. The loader stick location was/is a big plus for me with the LX versus the L.
As to geared or HST - unless you know you need a geared tractor for your applications, you should buy the HST. Based on your questions, you should buy the HST.
Good luck with your process.
As to geared or HST - unless you know you need a geared tractor for your applications, you should buy the HST. Based on your questions, you should buy the HST.
Good luck with your process.
The main thing is that it's your money, get the tractor that YOU want!! Do NOT settle for what they have in stock!! Tractors cost so much but a few extra $$$ can mean the difference from liking your tractor and LOVING your tractor.
A few things that you might not know... the LX models were (up until a few years ago) were called "B" models. Sorry if you knew that already. LX / B are lighter in weight which if driving on the lawn - might - cause less problems. Heavier tractor usually puts more traction to the ground which could tear up the grass more.
A few things that you might not know... the LX models were (up until a few years ago) were called "B" models. Sorry if you knew that already. LX / B are lighter in weight which if driving on the lawn - might - cause less problems. Heavier tractor usually puts more traction to the ground which could tear up the grass more.