glow plugs

[5200hst]

I have a G5200 and I believe 2 of the 3 glow pulgs are bad. Are the cheap ones ok to use, or I'm I better off spending more for name brand?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Let me give you 2 scenarios:

Worse case scenario, the glow plug tip breaks and goes into the piston, destroys the piston and connecting rod and head and valves. $4k rebuild later you wish you would have bought name brand.

Best case scenario, you'll be fine and dandy and they will last a few years before you got to roll the dice again.

Buy name brand and you'll be able to install and forget about them.

NGK Y103V

https://www.amazon.com/NGK-Y103K-Glow-Plug-Pack/dp/B001B0WZR4/ref=asc_df_B001B0WZR4/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312442771380&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12056178180156683479&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9029659&hvtargid=pla-441075390144&psc=1

https://www.autozone.com/miscellaneous-non-automotive/non-automotive-spark-plug/p/ngk-diesel-glow-plug/941559_0_0?cmpid=LIA:US:EN:AD:NL:1000000:GEN:19502231967&&CATARGETID=120054150001573264&CADevice=c&gclid=Cj0KCQjw7uSkBhDGARIsAMCZNJu4x5yJsO6kdsHcZ_STSqk2NVRiz3vZXiaJOd7Z7thcCwSTMaP-xfgaAmMXEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

[Dave_eng]

I have a G5200 and I believe 2 of the 3 glow pulgs are bad. Are the cheap ones ok to use, or I'm I better off spending more for name brand?

Please tell us how you decided two of the three GP's are bad.
Follow NIW's advice regarding name brand GP's. This is not the item to buy cheap as failure destroys your engine
Dave

 

[lmichael]

Again, learning more about diesel engines here. Never knew a glow plug failure could destroy an engine. I figured at worst an el cheapo clow plug would be an "inconvenience" but not a danger to the engine. Glad I saw this. Though likely if I ever needed them I think I would simply go to the dealer and buy them there

 

[Oil pan 4]

Don't buy cheap glow plugs. Always buy upgrade plugs if available.
How do you know they are bad?
They're very easy to test.

 

[5200hst]

Thanks guys. I'm pretty new to diesels, I knew NGK spark plugs were good, wasn't sure about their glow plugs. The ones in it are NGK stamped 83X3, couldn't find a part number, so thanks for that.
As far as testing, I just did the ohm meter test, didn't try putting the voltage to them. It looks like maybe had a little rat poop sit on 2 of them and corroded the tops and the ohms were sporadic. Just thought it best to change them, getting hard to start.

Thanks for the info.

 

[BruceP]

I knew NGK spark plugs were good, wasn't sure about their glow plugs.

I would expect Japanese NGK GPs in a Japanese Kubota engine. (Original factory components)

Beware: There have been reports of counterfeit NGK sparkplugs... I would assume GPs which are priced too low MAY also be counterfeit .

As far as testing, I just did the ohm meter test, didn't try putting the voltage to them. It looks like maybe had a little rat poop sit on 2 of them and corroded the tops and the ohms were sporadic. Just thought it best to change them, getting hard to start.

I would NEVER expect the resistance measurement to be ''sporadic' (even if GP is bad)
Try cleaning the connections with wire-wheel (gently) and re-test
A bad GP will be TOTALLY OPEN.

If you do choose to apply 12V to test GP... Be careful not to get burned and do not connect for more than about 5 seconds.... JUST LONG ENOUGH TO OBSERVE STARTING TO GET HOT. When not screwed into the mass of cylinder-head to dissipate the heat, a GP can burn out very quickly.

REMEMBER: Those GPs are actually rated for about 10V and the indicator (wired in series) reduces and controls the voltage applied to the GPs.

If you were to monitor the voltage AT THE GPs while glowing... you would see the voltage start near 12V... and as the indicator starts to get hot, the voltage will drop quickly. This is normal operation to prevent GP burnout.

The hotter the GPs get.... the LOWER the voltage fed to them. It is a self-regulating circuit.

 

[ve9aa]

Since we don't know you or your electrical experience level, I'll just ask:
Did you know all your GP's are wired in parallel?
(so, you'll have to totally remove the busbar or your (Ohmmeter) readings are essentially meaningless.)

 

[5200hst]

Since we don't know you or your electrical experience level, I'll just ask:
Did you know all your GP's are wired in parallel?
(so, you'll have to totally remove the busbar or your (Ohmmeter) readings are essentially meaningless.)

 

[GreensvilleJay]

re:
Did you know all your GP's are wired in parallel?
(so, you'll have to totally remove the busbar or your (Ohmmeter) readings are essentially meaningless.)

Not 'meaningless'.
Say the GPs are 1.2 ohms each.
0 bad GP, 3 good will show 0.4 ohms
1 bad GP, 2 good will show 0.6 ohms
2 bad GP, 1 good will show 1.2 ohms

so you will know the condition of them, sort of. You won't KNOW which one is bad though
And of course there's the 'aging' effects,feed wiring condition, GP controller, as well as how accurate your DMM is. (You did short the leads to get the baseline resistance ,right ?? )

The better ( best ??) test is to split them apart, put an ammeter in series,one at a time, and see how much current the GP draws. I suspect about 10 amps is 'nominal'.

 

[5200hst]

I did remove the bus bar and checked individually. Had a small brass brush like a tooth brush, cleaned as best I could. The old girl had been setting in a barn several years, rat nest on engine. Like I said earlier, 2 has some nasty oxidizing going on. Guy said his wife did the mowing and wanted a zero turn( thought about trying to work out some kind of trade there, my wife won't get on the mower). Rescued it and hope to put her back to work. Orderd the part number GP today that Wolfman shared. Seems to run good besides the hard start. I had drained the tank and put fresh fuel and filter. May need a deck bearing, do you have to buy as a unit or can you remove the spindle, knock out the bearings and replace? Thanks for the help. Let me know if you think I'm on the right path.

 

[Oil pan 4]

If glow plugs gives fluctuating reading they are likely fine and there is corrosion.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

if you know the deck model number ,goto K or messicks parts, pull up the diagrams. I'd think bearings 'should' be available though these days it seems 'they' just sell 'complete' units......

 

[5200hst]

if you know the deck model number ,goto K or messicks parts, pull up the diagrams. I'd think bearings 'should' be available though these days it seems 'they' just sell 'complete' units......

OK, thank you all.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Deck bearings are standard bearings, pull them and there will be a number on them, then go on eBay or Amazon and get the bearings for cheap.

 

[5200hst]

Well, I got caught not following Rule # 1 of electrical trouble shooting CHECK YOUR GROUND CONNECTIONS!
Working on at dusk tonight in a barn with no lights. While trying to start it I saw sparking from various places. The negative cable connection was nice and clean and tight at both ends, looking further, it had good jumpers around the engine mounts to the frame, but no connection from the frame around the steering column frame( where the factory battery cable landed) to the main frame or engine. I had recently replaced the battery cables on my old 1st gen cummins. Used one of the old cables. Seems like it fixed several problems. Feeling pretty silly.
Thanks for all your input.

 

[5200hst]

Got the sarting issues taken care of and new bearings in the deck belt tensioner. Adjusted thr tensioner spring where it looked like it had just spread the spring a little. mowed for about 30 minutes. Deck belt was pretty hot when checking things out, too much spring tension?