Getting started welding

RCW

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I got a Lincoln 210MP several years ago. Dual voltage and also MIG, TIG, and stick. Only used mig w/gas so far, but has the other capabilities if I ever need them. It has some good presets, but allows a lot of adjustments.

I started at 120v, then put a sub panel in the garage for 240. Big difference.

I’ve done some pretty welds that didn’t hold, and some ugly ones that held great.....

I was lucky to get some great tips from Daren Todd, D2Cat and others years ago. ....I have a long way to go. Practice, practice....

There’s some talented folks here. Yooper is like a welding god....he’s documented some projects that are just amazing.

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RCW

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There are some very good auto-darkening hoods pretty reasonably priced.

When I bought mine, a Kobalt-branded hood was well-recommended for ~$100. I've had good luck with mine so far.
 

lugbolt

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the best way to self-learn.

Go get a torch set, you'll need it anyway. Or if you already have one, throw a #2 or #3 welding tip on it, grab some scrap STEEL 1/8 to 1/4 in thickness and practice. Make a puddle. Then once you figure out how to make a puddle, start moving the puddle around on the steel and watch how the puddle changes size based on where it's at and how the rest of the metal heats. Get decent at puddling? Take an old steel clothes hanger (non-coated preferably) and then while you have a puddle going, feed the end of the hanger rod into the puddle. Do that a bunch of times. Then start feeding rod while moving the puddle across the steel scrap. Not enough challenge? Put two pieces of scrap together in like side-by-side and weld them together. Move on to a lap weld, then a T joint, etc.

Now you have the basics of TIG welding and if you are decent with a torch, you will be good at TIG welding. But the same principles also apply with stick welding and mig welding; all you are doing is joining metals together by melting them partially and adding a filler (stick electrode, mig wire, or tig filler).

when oxy-acetylene welding you will need the proper heat protection (face, arms, hands) as well as the proper cutting face shield with the right shade. While some have and some still do, I do not recommend welding or cutting without a shaded shield.

With stick welding you need a helmet with a #10-#12 shade, some guys like a #14 but I don't. I prefer 10 for almost everything under 200A of current. When you start getting into much higher amperage, I have to go up to a #12. I also use a cheater lens because my eyes ain't what they used to be.

Welding means lots of heat (1500-9000 deg F) so you need lots of safety equipment. Extinguishers, pants gloves face protection, jacket, and take the proper safety precautions. MIG and stick make lots of sparks so no combustibles anywhere near the area you will be welding in. That also means gas cans. Gas cans need to be in another building or better yet in the next county. I knew a guy who had plastic can full of gas near a welding project, a spark dropped and burned through the gas can, caused leak, then it ignited from another spark. Wasn't pretty. 5 gallon of gas make big fire. No rags near the welding. Any oil soaked wood can smolder and when you walk away for the night it can cause big problems. Aerosol cans are another no-no. Fresh paint. Tires. Anything that hot sparks can damage need to be at least 40-50 feet away. Ventilation is also important particularly with stick welding as the flux on the electrodes tends to make nasty gases. Similarly, galvanized steel--do not breathe those fumes, actually just do not weld galvanized, period.
 
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Shadow_storm56

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I feel like I've asked this before but I can't find it.

It looks like there are a fair number of you who do at least some welding, so any tips for someone who wants to start out, basically learning how to do it for little stuff around the shop/farm?
It's an extremely useful skill the you will get a feel for after a while but it will be annoying at first. You will burn yourself from time to time and probably catch on fire atleast once but it's all fun :)
 
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Old_Paint

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I can agree with that. :LOL:
Depends on what you're trying to do and how thick the metal is. If you're trying to rebuild a surface, you want the rod/wire to melt more than the worn metal. If the heat's too hot, you'll blow holes in it. I just repaired a mower blade today that had some significant wear from sand/grit, and a hairline crack where it was about to sling the end off the blade. Built it up, ground the curve, bingo, like new again. Not sure how well it's gonna wear this time, but it'll get me by until new ones get here.

If you're welding thin metal, you'll learn to appreciate a smaller wire welder. TIG/MIG/Flux, up to you, but if you're out in the open like I am with most of my projects, you're kinda stuck with flux. The shortfall of gas welding is that a small breeze can drastically affect the weld.
 

Old_Paint

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the best way to self-learn.

Go get a torch set, you'll need it anyway. Or if you already have one, throw a #2 or #3 welding tip on it, grab some scrap STEEL 1/8 to 1/4 in thickness and practice. Make a puddle. Then once you figure out how to make a puddle, start moving the puddle around on the steel and watch how the puddle changes size based on where it's at and how the rest of the metal heats. Get decent at puddling? Take an old steel clothes hanger (non-coated preferably) and then while you have a puddle going, feed the end of the hanger rod into the puddle. Do that a bunch of times. Then start feeding rod while moving the puddle across the steel scrap. Not enough challenge? Put two pieces of scrap together in like side-by-side and weld them together. Move on to a lap weld, then a T joint, etc.

Now you have the basics of TIG welding and if you are decent with a torch, you will be good at TIG welding. But the same principles also apply with stick welding and mig welding; all you are doing is joining metals together by melting them partially and adding a filler (stick electrode, mig wire, or tig filler).

when oxy-acetylene welding you will need the proper heat protection (face, arms, hands) as well as the proper cutting face shield with the right shade. While some have and some still do, I do not recommend welding or cutting without a shaded shield.

With stick welding you need a helmet with a #10-#12 shade, some guys like a #14 but I don't. I prefer 10 for almost everything under 200A of current. When you start getting into much higher amperage, I have to go up to a #12. I also use a cheater lens because my eyes ain't what they used to be.

Welding means lots of heat (1500-9000 deg F) so you need lots of safety equipment. Extinguishers, pants gloves face protection, jacket, and take the proper safety precautions. MIG and stick make lots of sparks so no combustibles anywhere near the area you will be welding in. That also means gas cans. Gas cans need to be in another building or better yet in the next county. I knew a guy who had plastic can full of gas near a welding project, a spark dropped and burned through the gas can, caused leak, then it ignited from another spark. Wasn't pretty. 5 gallon of gas make big fire. No rags near the welding. Any oil soaked wood can smolder and when you walk away for the night it can cause big problems. Aerosol cans are another no-no. Fresh paint. Tires. Anything that hot sparks can damage need to be at least 40-50 feet away. Ventilation is also important particularly with stick welding as the flux on the electrodes tends to make nasty gases. Similarly, galvanized steel--do not breathe those fumes, actually just do not weld galvanized, period.
Strangely enough, this is pretty much the same way we were taught in high school shop class, Vo-Ag, FFA, all that good stuff. We started out with soldering with propane on copper, moved to brazing with brass on cast iron, Oxy-Acetylene cutting/brazing/welding, and finally stick welding. I don't think anything nearly as cool as wire-feed welders existed yet in the early 70's, or maybe our little rural school just couldn't afford them.

Taking vocational education out of high schools and closing trade schools was a brilliant idea, wasn't it? I'm just glad I got to go when I did, before close became good enough.
 

Nicfin36

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Depends on what you're trying to do and how thick the metal is. If you're trying to rebuild a surface, you want the rod/wire to melt more than the worn metal. If the heat's too hot, you'll blow holes in it. I just repaired a mower blade today that had some significant wear from sand/grit, and a hairline crack where it was about to sling the end off the blade. Built it up, ground the curve, bingo, like new again. Not sure how well it's gonna wear this time, but it'll get me by until new ones get here.

If you're welding thin metal, you'll learn to appreciate a smaller wire welder. TIG/MIG/Flux, up to you, but if you're out in the open like I am with most of my projects, you're kinda stuck with flux. The shortfall of gas welding is that a small breeze can drastically affect the weld.
I was being a little facetious. However, due to my experience, I often find that I don't have my welder "hot" enough, even when trying to go by the chart. From reading posts, it seems that many novice welders do the same thing.
 

Old_Paint

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I was being a little facetious. However, due to my experience, I often find that I don't have my welder "hot" enough, even when trying to go by the chart. From reading posts, it seems that many novice welders do the same thing.
I wasn't criticizing. Heat is very important for penetration. No penetration, bad weld. UNLESS, as I said, you're trying to lay metal on. I learned today that trying to build up with a wire welder is a little bit silly. It'll chew up a spool of wire very quickly. This is where stick welders and very big sticks come in handy.

In my follow up comment, I talked about the progression we went through in our shop classes. One other thing we learned to do, as well as why not to do it, was cutting with an arc welder. Takes a lot of sticks to just vaporize enough metal to make a cut, and it usually isn't a very pretty cut.

I just wish kids had the same opportunities to learn that I had. Get 'em off the couch and away from the XBox. Teach 'em a trade and how to have fun doing it. I grew up so poor I couldn't even pay attention, but managed to have enough work ethic and general knowledge when I got out of high school that I had a good arsenal for working while I went to college to become an engineer.
 

D2Cat

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When I'm building pipe fence I always use a rod to burn a hole in the gate post to hang the gate off of. I like to run a threaded rod through the post so the gate angle at the far end can be adjusted. First time my nephew was helping me, he was somewhat astonished such a thing would work!
 

Nicfin36

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I just wish kids had the same opportunities to learn that I had.
I'm 49. It seems those not much younger than me (not all) now think accomplishing something is calling someone to do the work or taking the item somewhere to be worked on. I have a 32 year old friend who was bragging a while back about how he serviced all his mowers and little subcompact tractor. He seemed rather proud of the fact. I asked a question on the servicing of his zero turn mower and he looked at me for a second and said, "Oh, I took them to the John Deere dealership for service." :rolleyes:

But I digress. :)
 

D2Cat

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Welding rod has gotten much more expensive since the last time I purchased a can. I use Lincoln Fleetweld 1/8 6010 5P+ for welding pipe fencing. A 50# can cost $175-$196 depending on where you go.
 

Old_Paint

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I'm 49. It seems those not much younger than me (not all) now think accomplishing something is calling someone to do the work or taking the item somewhere to be worked on. I have a 32 year old friend who was bragging a while back about how he serviced all his mowers and little subcompact tractor. He seemed rather proud of the fact. I asked a question on the servicing of his zero turn mower and he looked at me for a second and said, "Oh, I took them to the John Deere dealership for service." :rolleyes:

But I digress. :)
My point exactly. Money grows on trees now, and they have no sense of value. Then again, manufacturers now build things where it's nearly impossible for an amateur to do routine service. There's big money in it for the dealerships, and if it's harder to do, then the owner will bring it in. There was a time I'd NEVER take a vehicle back to a dealership. If I do now, it's because I'm nearly 63, and I hurt in places that I didn't even know I had places.
 
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xrocketengineer

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Here is my learning approach. Buy the cheapest Harbor Freight flux welder. Start helping your buddy with his rusty 69 Camaro. We used my welder and his, in flux mode for the thicker metal (firewall, floorboards etc.) Then switched to MIG on his low end Lincoln welder for the thinner body panels. I never thought I would do so much cutting and welding and grinding. So far it has no fallen apart yet.
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