Manual gives both as a choice. I was interested in knowing the experiences of those who have used the gear oil particularly. It would be a lot cheaper, for sure, and the extra viscosity may reduce some leaking.
Good insight. And, yes, I was thinking about the cost after I said gear oil would be cheaper...not necessarily, as you mention. My goal is to reduce the little bit of seepage that I see. I don't want to deal with replacing seals right now. Thanks for taking time to share. Yes...decisions, decisions, decisions.
If I may press the issue a bit...are you planning on synthetic gear oil or regular? I'm leaning toward regular but that could be from my ignorance of what actually goes on in that axle. It doesn't seem that there would be that much stress/strain. The object is to keep the parts lubricated. Does synthetic do that better? I don't know. Maybe that's why it was created. On the other had, if it is thinner, it may defeat the purpose that I have to reduce seal seep.
I'll chime in and disagree with you 100%
)Now that you mention it, I think I have heard that said about synthetic in older engines. I wouldn't know about in an axle case. But...something to think about. Thanks.
No offense taken at all. I just knew that someone would disagree with me, I just did not know who. Anyway, if I owned an 8N I would use 10W30 or 10W40 dino motor oil. The older engines especially need to use non-synthetic because those engines have looser tolerances and need the higher viscosity oils.I'll chime in and disagree with you 100%
I use Amsoil 85w90 in my BX front end and Rotella T6 5w-40 in my BX engine - S-UDT2 in my HST
Amsoil 0w20 in my Subaru.....and if I am really cheap, Mobil 1 5w30 in my GMC
AS for the money aspect - the Mobil 1 is the same price as dyno oil and the Amsoil cost me about 10% across the board.
Army, I aint trying to bust your chops .....but would you really use 30w straight on a 8n if you had one - toady? I know it said to use it in 1948-1952 but like SOME things, new stuff really can be better than "old" stuff. (Not true with all things!
I am one of these people that can read and understand how and what oil is made of - and yes I do believe in scientific data when it is backed up with a sht load of years of testing and data - but we'll save that for anther day!
Again - not to open Pandora's box on oils ............ the secret to old sloppy engines is to use a HIGH viscosity oil that will "fill" those wonderful gaps between those sloppy moving parts! Synthetics can be made to flow freely at 0 weights and they make a nasty 60w straight synthetic that is used in dragsters that is almost like molasses!(ok - that was a stretch!)
Your statement that any oil in the last 10 years will work in almost any circumstance is absolutely correct. There is no oil made that does not have synthetic molecules in it. That is how multi-weight oils are made now. So, extrapolating that little tidbit, all oils are actually synthetic nowadays.
