Gear heads ,,283

[skeets]

The grand son had a 64 or 65 Belair 4 door given to him by a great aunt. And yeah he already has visions of a big block,,4 speed and big tires,I dont think thats gona happen. The body is a little rough but not bad and the floor pans are solid so thats a good start the seats and rug well they need work. Anyways it has a little 283, 2 bbl backed up with an automatic. It starts and runs and STOPS, but smokes like crazy, stuck ring maybe,, maybe something else.
So my question in keeping it as stock as it can be, what do ya think a rebuild might cost him. Not a shop rebuild , but in his Dads garage provided nothing crazy is wrong. I was think around 300 for gaskets and seals and maybe bearings and odd and ends. What say you, and yeah grandpap will pick up some slack, in the wallet if need be.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

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Machine work is where it gets pricey
You'll need to have the crank turned and polished and the block and head surfaced and bored.
Also should do a valve job on it while he's in there.
And a carb rebuild
Wouldn't hurt to do the ignition too.

 

[Flintknapper]

283 of that vintage would have been built to run on leaded gas, so changing out valve seats (for hardened seats) might be necessary if the Lad plans on driving it very much or very hard.

Assuming the cylinder bores are not scored or out of round....a person 'could' do a garage type 'overhaul' (hone cylinders, replace piston rings, replace crank and rod bearings, send heads out for valve job).

But it will end up costing more than you might think. IF made a 'project' over time....could be done without too much cash outlay all at once, but I've never seen a young man with that kind of patience or who didn't plan on driving the wheels off of it.

 

[Kubota Newbie]

Parts are plentiful for that, and pretty inexpensive relative to newer engine series like the LS. You won't know till it's apart but I probably wouldn't do a simple re-ring unless it is in exceptionally good shape.
As noted it's the machine work that adds up. Bore and hone, grind crank, possibly re-size rods, more than likely surface the heads, new guides and a valve job.
They're pretty easy engines to work on. Aside from a torque wrench the only special tool needed is an installer for the cam bearings (assuming whoever does the heads returns them assembled). Likely that the shop that would bore and hone could install those for you for next to nothing after it's cleaned.
Mild performance parts won't be much more than stock spec. Don't get too carried away with high perf stuff on a 283 as the crank is not up to the task as much as the latter 327 and 350 cranks. Although... You could luck out and find that it has a forged crank in which case you can push the limits a little bit more.
There have been soooo many of the Chevy small block motors done over the years that any competent automotive machine shop should be able to quote all of the machine work in like 5 seconds.
Possible problem areas:
Cracked head, probably unlikely if still has 283 heads.
Spun main bearing - repairable, requires line hone.
Unlike the later 305, 327, and 350 motors bottom end parts like cranks, and rods can't be mixed and matched to get different displacement combos on the 283 ( if I recall correctly the main and rod bearing sizes are smaller).

 

[DustyRusty]

I'm not going to comment on costs, because today's parts are the wild card. Just want to suggest a reliability issue. Those heads were cast and the sealing surface of the valve covers is rounded and rough casting. While the heads are apart, have them take a very mild surface cut of the ridge that the valve covers press upon for sealing. If they just square that up and make a flat surface there will be no more valve cover problems of leaking.
Find out if it is 1964 or 1965 because 1965 is a model year change to a new body style and parts avability for the 1965 are not as plentiful. The 1965 everything changed from body, mechanicals, and frame.

 

[Orangeglow]

How long has it been sitting ? How many miles on it ? How long since it was regularly driven ?

 

[skeets]

Well, the body ( 65)is in fair shape and the doors close solid so he is good that way, bondo and window screen if need be.
Motor according to him has 130k on it and his great uncle was crazy about getting things taken care of.
And you remember your first car, how long could you wait to run the wheels off it!
I was thinking about doing things in house, 1 weather ,2 give him an understanding of the working of the car, and what happens when you do something stupid.
Like I said it smokes but maybe soaking all the cylinders with M M O and letting it sit for a few days and see what happens.
It has been sitting for at least 15 years that his Dad knows of, so yeah the fuel system is right at the top of the list and all 4 wheels , tires and brakes. So yes it is a lot for him to get done before he is going to drive it. The beast is no show car, it is an everyday driver at best. Im just trying to get an idea on the big ticket items, and yeah, thinking about it a good shop might be the best idea, and maybe a good trannie shop might be in order as well.
So he can save his money and get all the other stuff done and paid for first.
As always guys you do put thing in perspective

 

[GeoHorn]

IF the oil pressure when HOT and IDlING is above 20 psi…..Pul those heads, send ‘em out for valve-stem seals and re-seat, drop the pan and do a ring job. Leave the mains alone but you might consider new main oil seals.

That engine might be in good basic condition with so few miles, and the work described would give him a basic understanding and cost less than $500 in parts.

Of course, …you’d then be looking at the tranny and torque converter…. and front-end… and old wiring…. upholstery, carpet, paint…. brake system…. Tires…...Ten Grand Later you’d have a good driver.

 

[D2Cat]

In 1965 130K on an American made car was a lot of miles, not like today's engines.

 

[Flintknapper]

In 1965 130K on an American made car was a lot of miles, not like today's engines.

^^^^

Exactly right .

Full tune ups every 10-12K miles were the norm and an engine overhaul at around 80K-100K depending on use and maintenance. Certainly a rebuild at 120K+ (back in the day).

 

[DustyRusty]

My 1962 Chevrolet 327/300 HP needed a full rebuild at 75K. The Powerglide transmission is either good or bad, there is no in-between with a Powerglide. If you rebuild the heads and not the rings and pistons, then it will burn even more oil. If you want to get away with it on the cheap, pull the engine and plastigage the journals to see how much wear is on them. Sometimes you can get away with .001 or .002 undersized bearings. If you check the cylinder walls and there is no ridge at the top, and you can get your hands on a bore gauge, check the wear at the top middle, and bottom. If the cylinders are good, then you could hone them and install new piston rings on the pistons and button it up. If you hone the cylinders, you must wash the cylinder walls with dishwashing detergent and thoroughly rinse if you want the new rings to last. It is what we call a cheap and dirty rebuild, but it will buy you some mileage at little cost.

 

[Runs With Scissors]

In 1965 130K on an American made car was a lot of miles, not like today's engines.

I was thinking the exact same thing. That baby is almost assuredly "clapped out" if it's original...(which I kinda doubt, but hey anything's possible I guess)

But one cheap thing to try is a "Top End Cleaner"

Mopar used to sell one that actually seemed to work pretty good/kinda ok.

It's certainly not a "rebuild" , but its a quick and cheap try at getting things "unstuck".

I'm sure Chevy/Ford has a similar product.

 

[John T]

283, 2 bbl backed up with an automatic. It starts and runs and STOPS, but smokes like crazy, stuck ring maybe,, maybe something else.
So my question in keeping it as stock as it can be, what do ya think a rebuild might cost him. Not a shop rebuild , but in his Dads garage provided nothing crazy is wrong. I was think around 300 for gaskets and seals and maybe bearings and odd and ends.

Whatever you think it will cost, Triple that. $$

There is no such thing as a cheap rebuild.
Heads and block need to be cleaned and checked for cracks (magnaflux)
heads need machining/MAYBE new valves or springs etc.
Block probably needs honing or boring... NEW pistons/rings...
timing chain and gears .... balancer??
hows the oil pan? might need one....
check the rods/new rod bearings....
don't forget about machining the crank and sizing new bearings.

You might as well throw a new cam & lifters in it.....
gaskets/paint/assembly lube/
and don't he want a nice set of chrome valve covers?

plugs/wires/ distributor ...

the list goes on.


By the time you are done, Often times it's cheaper to buy a crate engine and throw it in.

anyway.... nothing is cheap these days.



I'm on my way to NAPA right now to get bent over .... for jeep front hubs and U-joints
... hope they have a tube of assembly lube...

 

[fried1765]

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Free Shipping - Federal Mogul Engine Re-Ring Kits with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Engine Rebuild Kits at Summit Racing.

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Machine work is where it gets pricey
You'll need to have the crank turned and polished and the block and head surfaced and bored.
Also should do a valve job on it while he's in there.
And a carb rebuild
Wouldn't hurt to do the ignition too.

Sounds like a WHOLE LOT more than $300 total cost!

 

[DustyRusty]

Whatever you think it will cost, Triple that. $$

There is no such thing as a cheap rebuild.
Heads and block need to be cleaned and checked for cracks (magnaflux)
heads need machining/MAYBE new valves or springs etc.
Block probably needs honing or boring... NEW pistons/rings...
timing chain and gears .... balancer??
hows the oil pan? might need one....
check the rods/new rod bearings....
don't forget about machining the crank and sizing new bearings.

You might as well throw a new cam & lifters in it.....
gaskets/paint/assembly lube/
and don't he want a nice set of chrome valve covers?

plugs/wires/ distributor ...

the list goes on.


By the time you are done, Often times it's cheaper to buy a crate engine and throw it in.

anyway.... nothing is cheap these days.



I'm on my way to NAPA right now to get bent over .... for jeep front hubs and U-joints
... hope they have a tube of assembly lube...

Check Advanced and O'Reileys for better prices and the quality is the same. NAPA is overpriced unless you can beat them to get their "best shop pricing". My local NAPA will price-match the Advance store down the street if you get the right counter guy. Needed an air filter and Advanced was a lot cheaper than the NAPA store. The guy behind the counter threw me a price that was double what Advance sold them for. Had no choice since I needed it then, so when the turd went in back to get the filter, one of the other counter guys that knows me, reached over and pushed one key on the keyboard, and the price suddenly went down by more than 50%. It was less expensive than the Advanced price.

 

[Runs With Scissors]

I'm on my way to NAPA right now to get bent over .... for jeep front hubs and U-joints
... hope they have a tube of assembly lube...

For the past few years, I have been ordering things like this direct from the manufacturer here in Michigan via Flea Bay. Their name is Detroit Axle and I have been very happy with everything so far.

Been saving a ton of money and they ship super fast.

Just a heads up.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

For the past few years, I have been ordering things like this direct from the manufacturer here in Michigan via Flea Bay. Their name is Detroit Axle and I have been very happy with everything so far.

Been saving a ton of money and they ship super fast.

Just a heads up.

I do the same thing for all my brake parts, and suspension parts.
Been using Detroit Axle for 10+ years.
Had one set of brake rotors that were supposed to be cross drilled and they were not, they promptly sent me out a new set and told me to keep the others.
Had one hub that arrived with a connector damaged they sent a new one, no hassle.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

yeesh it starts and runs ?? free up the rings (ATF/ace) for 2-3 days, then run it mild for a day.

 

[David Page]

First car was a 64 Impala SS 283 3sp on the column. Lost a piston. You didn't get a lot of miles with them back then. I think they are right there was a body change in 65.

 

[John T]

First car was a 64 Impala SS 283 3sp on the column. Lost a piston. You didn't get a lot of miles with them back then. I think they are right there was a body change in 65.

Growing up we had a 62 Impala wagon with a 283/and 3 on the tree.

That's back when a woman could shift a standard transmission AND still throw out her right arm if she had to hit the brakes hard...... so you didn't go through the windshield....

Dad put dual exhaust on it with el cheapo mufflers...... sounded sweet.


looked kinda like this one.....