Garage/Workshop building
- Thread starter kckndrgn
- Start date
Thanks all for the input.
Had the first contractor out yesterday to give me a quote, haven't heard back yet, figure a day or two before I call them to get the bad news.
For those that built your own, what is the general process with inspections, planning,etc.?
Getting the funding for this is turning into a real bear, seems most banks wont finance something like this unless I get an unsecured personal loan that has to be paid back in 5 years. Nope, that ain't gonna happen. Building myself, I've got the tools and skill, just lacking the time.
Still need to stop by 84 Lumber, but that may not be until next week.
Had the first contractor out yesterday to give me a quote, haven't heard back yet, figure a day or two before I call them to get the bad news.
For those that built your own, what is the general process with inspections, planning,etc.?
Getting the funding for this is turning into a real bear, seems most banks wont finance something like this unless I get an unsecured personal loan that has to be paid back in 5 years. Nope, that ain't gonna happen. Building myself, I've got the tools and skill, just lacking the time.
Still need to stop by 84 Lumber, but that may not be until next week.
CaveCreekRay
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Lifetime Member
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L3800 HST, KingKutter box scraper, KingKutter 66" rake, County Pride Subsoiler
Cost savings I have used and suggestions to save $$ and not have to REDO...
-Military discount at participating stores...
-Contractor desk at Home Depot: Ran $1600 worth of retail lumber through the "bid desk" and saved $700 in that one day.
-As builder/contractor you have a lot of latitude in who you hire. Get help before you need it if possible. Don't be afraid to pay for some when an issue is a "showstopper."
-Good concrete can sit for years without any damage. Have an experienced team of concrete guys help you with your slab. Nothing lingers more painfully than crappy concrete. And nothing is harder to remove and replace after a poor job. Pay attention to drainage inside the slab and outside.
-Pay as you go but remember, raw wood doesn't age well in the elements. Save up enough to get whatever sticks you put up covered in ply and at least felt paper.
-ABSOLUTELY: DRY IN THE ROOF THE DAY AFTER YOU NAIL IT DOWN.
-These guys have gone through this too. Learn from their mistakes...
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/index.php
-Don't let anyone tell you you "can't do this yourself." With careful pre-study and planning, nobody will do as good a job as a motivated and capable homeowner. I have seen plenty of "hatchet jobs" done by "pros." I spent a year re-building my current home that was built by "professionals." When the building inspector saw the pictures of what I had torn out and replaced it with, he signed it off without a pause.
Take pictures every step of the way. It may save your butt three or four times down the road.
Good luck.
-Ray
-Military discount at participating stores...
-Contractor desk at Home Depot: Ran $1600 worth of retail lumber through the "bid desk" and saved $700 in that one day.
-As builder/contractor you have a lot of latitude in who you hire. Get help before you need it if possible. Don't be afraid to pay for some when an issue is a "showstopper."
-Good concrete can sit for years without any damage. Have an experienced team of concrete guys help you with your slab. Nothing lingers more painfully than crappy concrete. And nothing is harder to remove and replace after a poor job. Pay attention to drainage inside the slab and outside.
-Pay as you go but remember, raw wood doesn't age well in the elements. Save up enough to get whatever sticks you put up covered in ply and at least felt paper.
-ABSOLUTELY: DRY IN THE ROOF THE DAY AFTER YOU NAIL IT DOWN.
-These guys have gone through this too. Learn from their mistakes...
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/index.php
-Don't let anyone tell you you "can't do this yourself." With careful pre-study and planning, nobody will do as good a job as a motivated and capable homeowner. I have seen plenty of "hatchet jobs" done by "pros." I spent a year re-building my current home that was built by "professionals." When the building inspector saw the pictures of what I had torn out and replaced it with, he signed it off without a pause.
Take pictures every step of the way. It may save your butt three or four times down the road.
Good luck.
-Ray
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One more way to go, you might take a look at the metal buildings. there a ton of them out out there with pretty good warranties, and when I was building mine most will finance as well.
And they aint real hard to put up, and with some care like Ray was talking about, will out live you and the next 2 guys that take over.
A couple guys in a week end can get one up and pretty well done with out much trouble.
Just a thought.
I had a pole building put up 30x40 with a contractor only because I was working out of town so much I didnt have time to do it my self. To be honest I kinda wish I had done a metal building and did it my self I would have saved a bunch over this one
And they aint real hard to put up, and with some care like Ray was talking about, will out live you and the next 2 guys that take over.
A couple guys in a week end can get one up and pretty well done with out much trouble.
Just a thought.
I had a pole building put up 30x40 with a contractor only because I was working out of town so much I didnt have time to do it my self. To be honest I kinda wish I had done a metal building and did it my self I would have saved a bunch over this one
Thanks guys.
Ray - funny thing about the pros. I had to replace the water hydrant in my back yard over the weekend (too far gone for a rebuild kit). While digging it out I found the power line, direct bury, for the well at about 6". I know for a fact that code in this area is 18" for direct bury lines. Thankfully it wasn't a "shocker" when I found it, but I was taking my time since I had no idea where it was or how deep. And amazingly enough the water pipe was only 12" down, should be a tad bit deeper but we generally don't have hard freezes here in the south.
Skeets, my wife suggested a metal building and while I'm not against them, they just don't appeal to me. However, it may end up being they way I go, for a cost and time savings.
Ray - funny thing about the pros. I had to replace the water hydrant in my back yard over the weekend (too far gone for a rebuild kit). While digging it out I found the power line, direct bury, for the well at about 6". I know for a fact that code in this area is 18" for direct bury lines. Thankfully it wasn't a "shocker" when I found it, but I was taking my time since I had no idea where it was or how deep. And amazingly enough the water pipe was only 12" down, should be a tad bit deeper but we generally don't have hard freezes here in the south.
Skeets, my wife suggested a metal building and while I'm not against them, they just don't appeal to me. However, it may end up being they way I go, for a cost and time savings.
CaveCreekRay
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Lifetime Member
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L3800 HST, KingKutter box scraper, KingKutter 66" rake, County Pride Subsoiler
Skeets brings up a great point...
My neighbor put up a 30 x 20 shop using stamped galvanized that he erected himself and bolted together. It came on a truck all nested together. The stamping creates the truss. Weather tight and secure. You could always insulate it or even fur in walls later.
I'd much rather have one of these on a nice slab than a pole barn.
My neighbor put up a 30 x 20 shop using stamped galvanized that he erected himself and bolted together. It came on a truck all nested together. The stamping creates the truss. Weather tight and secure. You could always insulate it or even fur in walls later.
I'd much rather have one of these on a nice slab than a pole barn.
Pole sheds can be finished and insulated . sided with steel they look just as good and will function as well as a steel building. There sure seems to be a lot of them out there have been around for long time. Guess it is just personal preference and money.
Watch your height, you might want to put in a lift if you do a lot of diy. I built my house on 12 foot basement, my garage in the basement is 32x30 wish I had more. put in a dannmar 9000 lift and wish I had 14foot ceiling.
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A friend had his shop put up in 3 days. Pole building. Was poetry in motion to watch the guys work.
Process will likely vary based on where you live, but I cant imagine by much..
Here I had to apply for a building permit and supply a rough sketch of the size and in relation to other structures and property lines. I got to bypass the site visit because he was out here the year prior....
First inspection is of the holes for proper depth. Next inspection will be framing and final after the steel is on. Perhaps he will do his final during the framing inspection... Up to him I suppose.
I'm going on 2 months just getting all the lumber put together on our 32x24 pole building. Weather has played a huge role in that delay, and its been eating at me in an unhealthy way. I also haven't really had anyone other than the wife and kids help either. If you plan on doing it yourself, either plan for it to take a while, or line up some help. Poles, carriers, trusses... all go up easier with help. We have managed with some cursing, new 10' step ladders and one of my firewood totes with the kids in it to do some lifting.
We are almost ready to have the steel and doors delivered.
For those still interested we, well the contractor, broke ground yesterday and had the foundation poured today.
I'm getting a 24x48 garage/workshop, the wife is getting a 16x35 covered porch setup so that in the future I can frame it in and have a screened in porch.
To the right of the garage, when we are done with construction, I will smooth and grade it then have some crushed limestone put down. That area will be pretty much 100% shade, so not worrying about trying to get grass to grown there, plus I'll have a 15' wide area for trailer storage. May do the same immediately behind the garage as well for 3pt equipment storage.
I'm getting a 24x48 garage/workshop, the wife is getting a 16x35 covered porch setup so that in the future I can frame it in and have a screened in porch.
To the right of the garage, when we are done with construction, I will smooth and grade it then have some crushed limestone put down. That area will be pretty much 100% shade, so not worrying about trying to get grass to grown there, plus I'll have a 15' wide area for trailer storage. May do the same immediately behind the garage as well for 3pt equipment storage.
One of my customers was telling me about his garage plan. Long narrow lot. Only space allowed for 14 feet wide. So, he went 40 feet long. All insulated and 1/2 heated for workshop. Want to see it when its done.
CaveCreekRay
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L3800 HST, KingKutter box scraper, KingKutter 66" rake, County Pride Subsoiler
That will be an awesome work space. That is a huge space you will be able to get a lot done in.
Nice move incorporating the porch in there for the wife. Happy Wife: Happy Life! Might as well get all the construction done while the subs are on property. You'll have a really nice property when you are done.
Keep the pics coming...
Nice move incorporating the porch in there for the wife. Happy Wife: Happy Life! Might as well get all the construction done while the subs are on property. You'll have a really nice property when you are done.
Keep the pics coming...
Thanks,
The building size was set due to code restrictions on distance from another building and property line. Although, after the survey was complete I found the property line was about 5' farther over than what I had planed. But that being said, where the property line is, no fully marked, if I wanted to on the north side of the building I could put in a 14' x 48' lean too. And I may do that in a few years.
Walls are going to be 10' studs and i have a 6" stem wall so that will give me just under 11' wall height on the inside.
The wife is excited for 2 reasons. 1 she gets the covered patio she's always wanted, and 2, she'll get to park her car in the attached garage. I think I can count on one hand the number of times I've been able to park a vehicle in my garage the 15yrs we've been married.
The contractor is doing the shell and electrical. I'll finish the insulation and interior walls as time and money permit.
Getting a 200 amp service to the garage, so I'll have PLENTY of power to spare!
The building size was set due to code restrictions on distance from another building and property line. Although, after the survey was complete I found the property line was about 5' farther over than what I had planed. But that being said, where the property line is, no fully marked, if I wanted to on the north side of the building I could put in a 14' x 48' lean too. And I may do that in a few years.
Walls are going to be 10' studs and i have a 6" stem wall so that will give me just under 11' wall height on the inside.
The wife is excited for 2 reasons. 1 she gets the covered patio she's always wanted, and 2, she'll get to park her car in the attached garage. I think I can count on one hand the number of times I've been able to park a vehicle in my garage the 15yrs we've been married.
The contractor is doing the shell and electrical. I'll finish the insulation and interior walls as time and money permit.
Getting a 200 amp service to the garage, so I'll have PLENTY of power to spare!
BillK01
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BX2360, FEL, LP 1560 back blade, Front mount snow blower, Ferris ISX800 ZTR
CaveCreekRay
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3800 HST, KingKutter box scraper, KingKutter 66" rake, County Pride Subsoiler
kckndrgn,
One thing to consider for lighting: My shop is almost exactly the same size as the one your are building. I have two 12x20 doors on either end which cover two of the end light banks when up. Not a biggee with daylight making up the difference but, the center of the garage was dim with the original florescents.
I swapped over to LED tubes and the increase in light was noticeable. Over the last year, I have accumulated some like-new 48" fluorescent fixtures that I simply swapped over to LED tubes. I have six original fixtures and have installed four more with two last ones at the far end. The difference is UNBELIEVABLE. I'll be able to work in there over winter and have plenty of light for these tired old eyes.
You can go LED much cheaper than the $80 per fixture cost you see at places like Home Depot. I have been picking up sweet take-outs for around $12 a fixture and Costco has LED bulbs for $18 a pair, or $30 all-up for the converted fixture.
In a couple locations, like over power tools, a tool chest, and the coffee maker/kicthen counter, I am hanging can drop-in fixtures with simple LED PAR 30 or bigger 75 watt floods, mounted on wood frames and hung between my exposed trusses. I'll have six around the perimeter of the shop in the "dark" areas.
I know you are thinking about all that stuff now but with two 20 amp circuits, you can really light up a shop that size with LEDs. I am stunned at the difference thus far.
My lights are still fairly warm, about 4000K so colors are true and bright without giving you eye fatigue when you look up at the fixtures. Spread your lighting out. I saw one guys shop where he put in some special order 10,000 lumen fixtures that hurt your eyes terribly. He has had to put grates on them to protect his eyes by blocking some of the horizontal glare. I ended up putting my sunglasses back on when I visited!
Have fun planning...
One thing to consider for lighting: My shop is almost exactly the same size as the one your are building. I have two 12x20 doors on either end which cover two of the end light banks when up. Not a biggee with daylight making up the difference but, the center of the garage was dim with the original florescents.
I swapped over to LED tubes and the increase in light was noticeable. Over the last year, I have accumulated some like-new 48" fluorescent fixtures that I simply swapped over to LED tubes. I have six original fixtures and have installed four more with two last ones at the far end. The difference is UNBELIEVABLE. I'll be able to work in there over winter and have plenty of light for these tired old eyes.
You can go LED much cheaper than the $80 per fixture cost you see at places like Home Depot. I have been picking up sweet take-outs for around $12 a fixture and Costco has LED bulbs for $18 a pair, or $30 all-up for the converted fixture.
In a couple locations, like over power tools, a tool chest, and the coffee maker/kicthen counter, I am hanging can drop-in fixtures with simple LED PAR 30 or bigger 75 watt floods, mounted on wood frames and hung between my exposed trusses. I'll have six around the perimeter of the shop in the "dark" areas.
I know you are thinking about all that stuff now but with two 20 amp circuits, you can really light up a shop that size with LEDs. I am stunned at the difference thus far.
My lights are still fairly warm, about 4000K so colors are true and bright without giving you eye fatigue when you look up at the fixtures. Spread your lighting out. I saw one guys shop where he put in some special order 10,000 lumen fixtures that hurt your eyes terribly. He has had to put grates on them to protect his eyes by blocking some of the horizontal glare. I ended up putting my sunglasses back on when I visited!
Have fun planning...
Thanks,
Already purchased LED tubes. Got them from bee's lighting. Came out to be $32.00 per fixture. 2 LED light tubes and the fixture that has already had the ballast removed.
My lights are 5000k, which is what we run in the house (all LED bulbs, daylight - 5000k). Got 10 fixtures with the electrical contractor putting up 8, I'll install the other 2 in specific work areas.
Already purchased LED tubes. Got them from bee's lighting. Came out to be $32.00 per fixture. 2 LED light tubes and the fixture that has already had the ballast removed.
My lights are 5000k, which is what we run in the house (all LED bulbs, daylight - 5000k). Got 10 fixtures with the electrical contractor putting up 8, I'll install the other 2 in specific work areas.
CaveCreekRay
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3800 HST, KingKutter box scraper, KingKutter 66" rake, County Pride Subsoiler
