G2160 Battery draining + random stalling

[Rober88]

Installed a new 51R battery a couple months ago (tested well over 12.6 V straight from the store). Left in storage with terminals disconnected.
Mowed first cut of the season yesterday:

• Before first cut: 12.52 V – started fine
• After ~1 hr: 12.43 V – hard to restart
• After 3 hr total cut: 12.3 V

This is the 3rd battery I’ve had to swap under warranty. Warranty has now expired. No idea why they keep dying this fast.

Second issue: engine stalls almost immediately after starting. If I’m quick and turn on the Reverse Awareness System right away, it stays running. Any ideas or fixes? Thanks!

 

[85Hokie]

I would think you have a charging problem. While engine running....check voltage at battery. Should be close or over 14 volts

 

[TheOldHokie]

Installed a new 51R battery a couple months ago (tested well over 12.6 V straight from the store). Left in storage with terminals disconnected.
Mowed first cut of the season yesterday:

• Before first cut: 12.52 V – started fine
• After ~1 hr: 12.43 V – hard to restart
• After 3 hr total cut: 12.3 V

This is the 3rd battery I’ve had to swap under warranty. Warranty has now expired. No idea why they keep dying this fast.

Second issue: engine stalls almost immediately after starting. If I’m quick and turn on the Reverse Awareness System right away, it stays running. Any ideas or fixes? Thanks!

Whats battery voltage with engine running?

You dont turn on KRA - it turns itself on when the engine is started. Pressing the button after startup disables KRA. Engine stopping on startup sounds like one of the KRA safety switches is malfunctioning.

Dan

 

[Rober88]

Whats battery voltage with engine running?

You dont turn on KRA - it turns itself on when the engine is started. Pressing the button after startup disables KRA. Engine stopping on startup sounds like one of the KRA safety switches is malfunctioning.

Dan

Just tested when running... 12.1 V - 12.3 V
Any ideas what I should do? Just watched some youtube.. most say it's likely the voltage regulator or stator. I don't even know where those things are.

For my machine KRA doesn't seem to be on when I start it up. If I do not push the red button, when in reverse while cutting the mower stops.

I have to push the KRA button to get the flashing light to turn on within that button, then I can reverse while cutting. Machine has been that way for years.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Just tested when running... 12.1 V - 12.3 V
Any ideas what I should do? Just watched some youtube.. most say it's likely the voltage regulator or stator. I don't even know where those things are.

For my machine KRA doesn't seem to be on when I start it up. If I do not push the red button, when in reverse while cutting the mower stops.

I have to push the KRA button to get the flashing light to turn on within that button, then I can reverse while cutting. Machine has been that way for years.

I have a G2160 and G2460. You have the operation of KRA backwards. When KRA is active the light is off and reversing while the mower PTO is engaged will stop the engine. Pushing the button deactivates KRA and the light flashes. Read your owner's manual. If the engine immediately shuts down at startup and pushing the button keeps it running the KRA system controller is defective or it is getting bad input frim the sensors/switches

Low battery voltage with the engine running indicates a bad alternator. The stator and voltage regulator are internal components in the alternator. Simplest fix is a new alternator.

Dan

 

[TheOldHokie]

One more thing - before condemning the alternator check all wire connections. If those look good take the alternator to a parts store (NAPA, Autozone, Pep Boys, etc) and have it tested.

Dan

 

[Rober88]

I have a G2160 and G2460. You have the operation of KRA backwards. When KRA is active the light is off and reversing while the mower PTO is engaged will stop the engine. Pushing the button deactivates KRA and the light flashes. Read your owner's manual. If the engine immediately shuts down at startup and pushing the button keeps it running the KRA system controller is defective or it is getting bad input frim the sensors/switches

Low battery voltage with the engine running indicates a bad alternator. The stator and voltage regulator are internal components in the alternator. Simplest fix is a new alternator.

Dan

Ahh, thanks for the correction. Yep, my understanding was backwards. The digital copy of the manual I downloaded does not have anything on the KRA system.

I'm hopeful an alternator is easy to replace.
Would an aftermarket work alright?
https://www.larsenlights.com/alternator-new-12v-40a-aftermarket-nippondenso-2

 

[TheOldHokie]

Ahh, thanks for the correction. Yep, my understanding was backwards. The digital copy of the manual I downloaded does not have anything on the KRA system.

I'm hopeful an alternator is easy to replace.
Would an aftermarket work alright?
https://www.larsenlights.com/alternator-new-12v-40a-aftermarket-nippondenso-2

The originsl alternator is Nippondenso so an aftermarket equivalent will work fine. Thats standard practice in the automotive world but you need ti make sure the aftermarket is in fact an equivalent.

On most engines replacing an alternator is one of the easier jobs you will find. If you have never replaced one I suggest you enlist the aid of a friend that has. And of course the WSM is always your friend.

Dan

 

[stephenrobinson98741]

Installed a new 51R battery a couple months ago (tested well over 12.6 V straight from the store). Left in storage with terminals disconnected.
Mowed first cut of the season yesterday:

• Before first cut: 12.52 V – started fine
• After ~1 hr: 12.43 V – hard to restart
• After 3 hr total cut: 12.3 V

This is the 3rd battery I’ve had to swap under warranty. Warranty has now expired. No idea why they keep dying this fast.

Second issue: engine stalls almost immediately after starting. If I’m quick and turn on the Reverse Awareness System right away, it stays running. Any ideas or fixes? Thanks!

This really sounds like two things possibly connected.

First, your battery shouldn’t be dropping that fast during normal mowing — I’d suspect weak charging from the alternator or a bad connection somewhere.

Second, the stalling tied to the Reverse Awareness System makes me think there’s a sensor or safety circuit issue reacting to low voltage or unstable signal at startup.

I’d start with charging system checks before replacing anything else.

 

[lmichael]

Ahh, thanks for the correction. Yep, my understanding was backwards. The digital copy of the manual I downloaded does not have anything on the KRA system.

I'm hopeful an alternator is easy to replace.
Would an aftermarket work alright?
https://www.larsenlights.com/alternator-new-12v-40a-aftermarket-nippondenso-2

I have had excellent luck with starters and alternators from this company. From what I've observed using them for many years they seem to be as good as or maybe a touch better than OEM. Certainly a FAR cry better than so called reman ones Alternator - Kubota Tractor L2800 L3130 L3400 L3430 L39 L4300 M4700 M4800 | DBE
But you may not have a bad alternator. Check the entire electrical system FIRST, parts replacement is always the last step after diagnosis

 

[Rober88]

Thanks everyone for all the input and suggestions.

I’ll be honest, I have zero confidence doing any electrical testing myself (wires, fuses, different meter settings, etc.). I’m going to watch some more YouTube videos and try to get a better handle on it.

On the alternator, a friend said he can install one for me, but I’m not sure how to figure out the exact correct one. Messick’s shows a reman unit here:
https://www.messicks.com/catalogs/kubota/g2160-g2160-ds-g2160au/electrical-system/a50500-alternator
Sounds like an aftermarket one is the better route.

I'll try to have thorough testing on the electricals done before ordering such a major part.

Also, just noticed this wire popped out of what I think is the temperature sensor. Would some electrical tape work?

 

[Russell King]

Here are the steps to remove the alternator:
0) Take some good pictures of the alternator and wiring connected to the alternator, and the belt that drives the alternator.
1) remove the negative battery cable from the battery post and move it away from the battery and secure it so it can not touch the terminal until you want it to touch.
2) loosen the bolts that attach the alternator to the tractor. Don’t remove them yet but get them pretty loose.
3) Remove the belt from the alternator pulley. You may have to force the alternator towards the engine to get the belt off. Leave the belt on the tractor for now.
4) remove wiring from the alternator but be 100% sure you can identify each wire by color and attachment location. You can use tape and a sharpie type pen to write letters or numbers on each wire and connection point if you want to make it really easy.
5) look at the alternator and how it will be able to be removed from the tractor. They can usually just be lifted out of the area but sometimes there are wires or hoses that block them in. The picture above makes it look like it is easily removed by going upwards and outwards. Just be sure you can get it out.
6) remove the bolts that attach the alternator to the tractor. There are at least two, a long one at the bottom pivot point and a short one at the top sliding connection. Again take some pictures of how the bolts are mounted so you can get them back in place.
7) take the alternator out and get a replacement that matches.
8) replacement is just doing 7to 1 in reverse order.

With the alternator out you can have it tested or repaired at an alternator shop. They can also sell you a rebuilt alternator that is suitable for your tractor. Make sure the voltage regulator is internal (we are assuming it is but could be wrong). If regulator is not internal then get a new one that mounts external (and we can talk about that if needed).

Your local auto parts store may be able to help but some will just not know what alternator would work in a tractor. Some do have parts look up by Kubota part numbers or alternator nameplate. I don’t know if Canada has NAPA auto parts stores but they would be my recommendation if you were in the USA.

 

[Russell King]

On the wire, just take the terminal off of the sensor and buy one like it (assuming it properly fits on the sensor). Buy a pair of wire stripping pliers that will crimp that terminal also.

If there is enough slack in the wire, cut it off at the insulation and strip the insulation back per the instructions on the box of terminals. Crimp on the new terminal and put it back on the sensor.

 

[Bee-Positive]

Would some electrical tape work?

As Russel stated this is a very easy fix, please do not use tape.
Take the connector to your favorite big box store and get a new one preferably with heat shrink.
Variety packs can be had for cheap and you'll have a lifetime supply.